ikay

DR Sunbeams have a soft touch and good depth of tone. I use 40-100s on my 72 J. Great strings and definitely worth a try if you haven't done already

This lutherie article explains what's going on: Human Perception of String Tension and Compliance in Stringed Musical Instruments - [url="http://liutaiomottola.com/myth/perception.htm"]http://liutaiomottola.com/myth/perception.htm[/url]

OK I agree that free string length (and break angle) can make strings feel more or less stiff/flexible. The issue in question here though is to do with string stiffness/fexibility, not string tension which is always as per the formula. The follow is from a guitar forum but the same principle applies. POST: "lets say i have two identical guitars except one has an original floyd rose (set to float) and the other has a tune-o-matic, which will have higher string tension?" REPLY: "The tension for a given note on a given scale length is always the same. It MUST be, otherwise it wouldn't be the same note anymore. What you are looking for is the term "stiffness". The longer the additional string length BEFORE the nut and AFTER the saddles - those two being the two pivot points - and the smaller the break angle, the less stiff the string will be when you try to bend it or even just press it down. But as soon as you set a whammy bridge to float, it'll have a certain "give", so when you bend or fret the string with your fretting hand, the bridge might tilt forward, detuning the rest of the strings ever so slightly. But if the trem springs are strong enough or you block the trem and your strings are locked at both ends, you successfully eliminated the pivot points, thus your Floyd equipped guitar will feel stiffer under your fretting fingers than any other non-locking guitar with the same scale length."

The formula for vibrating string tension/mass/frequency can be found here: [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vibrating_string"]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vibrating_string[/url] This formula applies to the vibrating part of the string (eg. between nut and bridge). From this it's clear that, mathematically speaking anyway, for a given string vibrating length, mass and tuned frequency, the tension will always be the same. However! This doesn't take into account the construction of the string itself which will affect the 'perceived' string tension or stiffness. For example round core strings have a softer feel than hex core which feel stiffer. I think there's probably some confusion here between the terms 'tension' and 'stiffness'. For a given vibrating length, mass, tuned frequency the string tension will be as per the formula but a hex string will feel 'stiffer' than a round core string. The free length of string above nut or below bridge has no bearing on the tension of the vibrating part of the string which will always be as per the formula. However (again), more or less downward pressure where the string passes over the nut and bridge saddle might well affect the perceived string tension or stiffness. The break angle over the nut or bridge is probably a more significant factor than the free length of string at either end. That's my tuppence worth anyway!

[quote]Oh, also, do I want split or solid shaft for the standard jazz knobs? Or do they make the knobs for both kinds? What value cap do I want? I thought all the orange drop caps would be the same value, looked them up on ebay only to find out there's loads! I'm guessing 0.47uF right? Seems to be the most common one used from what I've seen...[/quote] Solid shaft and 0.47uF

Sorry just realised the mod being described uses an additional mini-switch. You can buy the Fender S1 pot/switch here [url="http://www.absolutemusic.co.uk/store/guitar-department-45/guitar-accessories-457/guitar-parts-4574/fender-s1-switch-potentiometer-spare-part-250k-0061260000-s-1-3921"]http://www.absolutemusic.co.uk/store/guita...260000-s-1-3921[/url]

What you need is the Fender S1 switching mod, see here for details - [url="http://www.lordgoogle.com/bass/s1_mod/"]http://www.lordgoogle.com/bass/s1_mod/[/url]

No need to slacken the strings when increasing relief, just do it little by little, 1/8 turn at a time

[quote name='Spoombung' post='1089275' date='Jan 14 2011, 01:12 PM']Ah yes, of course! I've been very interested in Armando's basses for some time now - that's what's prompted the subject. Like Alan, he also features flat boards:[/quote] Heheh, the only way to satisfy the itch is to take the plunge! My philosophy in life is to try as many basses as I can. No matter what you have there will always be something else out there to tempt you. I pondered the idea of an ACG bass for weeks before pressing the button. It's a beautiful bass - nearly perfect (but not quite I'm pleased to say!). Good luck!

I bought an ACG a couple of months ago and was surprised at how immediately comfortable the flat board felt. The fingerboard edge is somewhat less rounded than on a conventional board but to me it quickly felt right. Very easy to play and easier to setup. Most pickups are flat after all I'm not a flat board convert as such though. I have basses with radii ranging from 7.25" (old Fenders) to 23" (TRB5). All have there own individual playing character and personally I like this. The vast array of different types of bass construction and configuration is an excuse to continue my endless quest to find the perfect bass. Vive la difference!

Does anyone have a bass equipped with Graphtech 'Ghost' piezo saddles and an Acousti-Phonic preamp? [url="http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=14"]http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=14[/url] Would be interested in any comments on the quality of the piezo sound and some sound clips if possible. All the demos of the Graphtech piezo system on YouTube are for guitar, none for bass .. Thanks

If the head of the screw is inside the button sound like it's going to be difficult or impossible to cut a new slot (and definitely not with a hammer!). Is the strap button loose enough for you get a hacksaw to the screw shank (between button and body) and leave enough of it protruding to use mole grips to wind it out?

Bought a PIO cap from Nick. Posted to me next day (might even have been same day). Very friendly chap to deal with, would buy from again. Thanks!

This ad for 'original' jazz bass pickups (vintage reissue / US standard) says 7.25 kOhm for neck and 7.50 kOhm for bridge [url="http://www.musik-produktiv.co.uk/fender-jazzbass-vint-us-std-set.aspx"]http://www.musik-produktiv.co.uk/fender-ja...us-std-set.aspx[/url]

Sold my Aphex Punch Factory to Tim in response to his wanted ad. Friendly, quick and straightforward transaction, a pleasure to do business with. Many thanks Tim

This link explains how to measure DC resistance of pickups while installed in the bass - [url="http://www.tdpri.com/forum/just-pickups/9291-how-do-i-measure-output-pickup.html"]http://www.tdpri.com/forum/just-pickups/92...put-pickup.html[/url] DC resistance is a frequently quoted pickup spec but only measures the resistance of the windings which doesn't tell you much about the output which is a function of the magnet type/strength and other factors (remove the magnets and the DC resistance is the same but the pup will produce no output at all). Inductance is more useful but is difficult to measure without specialist equipment. This link provides more detailed info on the key factors that determine pickup output and tone characteristics - [url="http://buildyourguitar.com/resources/lemme/"]http://buildyourguitar.com/resources/lemme/[/url]

Hmm, one thing the D and A have in common is that they both go under the string tree. Have you checked that the tree is firmly screwed in? If it's not that or a dodgy string then the problem must be to do with the bridge or nut. Try the following one by one to see if you can isolate which: 1. Press the D string down just behind the second fret and while its 'fretted' tap on the string just above the first fret. There should be a slight click or ping as it hits the first fret indicating that there is some slight clearance and that the nut is cut correctly. If there's no click/ping then the nut may have been cut too deep (can be easily fixed with a little super glue) and the open D+A strings may just be grazing the first fret 2. Loosen all strings, place something like an allen key under the strings in front of the nut (put a business card underneath it to protect the fingerboard) so that the strings go over this rather than the nut itself to take the nut out of the equation, bring D+A strings up to tune and check 3. Raise the D+A saddles at the bridge a turn or two to make sure you're getting good string contact over the saddle and check Then report back!

Re Rob Trujillo cover and Aug'08 BGM - just checked and sorry don't have either of those

No!

If the action is as you like it (neck relief, string height above fingerboard) then the easiest fix is to raise the pickup. If it's already up as far as it will go then take the pup out (easy job - just take the adjusting screws out and lift) and put some more foam underneath. If you feel the bridge saddles are too high for comfort then shim the neck at the end away from the bridge as you suggest and then bring the saddles down.

[quote name='Paul S' post='1064256' date='Dec 20 2010, 07:59 AM']Anyone else able to chip in with their measurements? So to speak?[/quote] Don't have a Fender standard to compare with but have a Gotoh 201 on my Squier VMJ which also measures 70mm and fits perfectly

The Squier VMJ fretless is an excellent first fretless. General quality of build and sound is very impressive for something at this price point. Got me started. I've since acquired a 5 string fretless (probably a step too far given my meagre abilities) so may now sell my VJM. If you're interested drop me a PM

Hi Clarky, I'm a fretless novice but have tried both and much prefer flats (TIs in my case). Large factor in moving to flats was the excessive string noise I got from rounds, no doubt due to my lousy technique. Planning to try some Status grounds soon which are apparently a good halfway house. BTW anyone who says rounds don't mark an ebony or phenolic board is lying! Ian

[quote name='Dsalter1' post='1051643' date='Dec 8 2010, 01:37 PM']This looks very handy can collect from guildford if you are about?[/quote] PMd