Gramski

Peach have the MK II at £1675 and GAK are advertising at £1750. Still not cheap but will last a lifetime (perhaps less value for someone of my advanced years).

@Eldon Tyrell I purchased a Source Audio Aftershock from Thorsten and the process was simple and straightforward. The pedal was in mint condition when it arrived, excellently packed and quickly delivered. Very happy. Thanks.

But when will it actually be available? About the MC3/6/8 and ML10X stock situation - Official Announcements - Morningstar User Forum Thankfully I picked up my MC6 last year and am very happy with it thanks to ThorpyFX in the UK.

Another with no problems; either active or passive basses. Boss do have this documented - Sound problems with active pick ups

I think you might have found a "hidden nasty". For info; I've had GuitarGuitar price match a Thomann price before (for a BB434). I'm not saying GuitarGuitar are perfect but they are probably easier to get returns to \ arrange pickups if something goes wrong.

I understand where you are coming from but I actually enjoy it; I can use them as "knobs only" and even change what the knobs control or I can allow my inner geek to run wild and tweak a million and one settings from software. As a retired software engineer it keeps me off the streets ..... although in in hindsight I do need to get out more.

I wouldn't call it a tutorial; just how I use them. I'd love to find more efficient ways and GMC and Derek on TalkBass certainly have given me ideas for how to configure it all longer term when I get to know the presets better and I'm also better able to create my own sound. If you have any questions then fire away and I'll try and help as best I can.

I don't know if this is a good way of working with the Source Audio pedals and hub ... it sort of works for me although I have done a few factory resets along the way to try things out in different ways. It would be great to hear from others on how they work with Source Audio pedals; GMC on TalkBass has been a great help. Also; as I've typed this up it really does reinforce that a "Picture paints a thousand words" ... I'll give this a go but if it is as clear as mud then I'll look to do something more structured when I have a moment. Top left of screenshot - I have the UW attach ed directly to the software with a set of presets. You see all the UW configuration settings here including the current bug which intermittently means my compression graph is blank. I'll call these pedal presets as they can only be for the UW pedal. Next down on the left you see the Neuro Hub with listed with both the same UW and a Gemini shown as connected devices - I have the Gemini and UW attached to the software via the hub. So the UW is connected twice to the software; once directly and once via the hub. The screenshot Hub_Gemini shows a collection of Gemini presets which don't have the UW included. In the Neuro Desktop software I can select a Gemini preset from the Neuro Hub and then an UW preset from the device and mix and match to see what I like. They don't override each other as each preset is for a specific pedal. I also have a preset with the UW bypassed and another with the Gemini bypassed so I can quickly turn one or both off. When I find something I like I then build the combined UW + Gemini scene on the hub - screenshot Combined. If I feel it still needs some tweaking then I can change the Gemini settings directly in the Hub section. And I can change the UW settings by checking the pedal preset number (in this case 17) and going back to the UW and tweaking and saving the settings on preset 17. Reading it back it does sound very complicated ... but I've got used to the workflow now. I don't tend to use the 6 presets on each pedal at the moment as I've a memory like a sieve. I do have a Morningstar MC6 with names against the presets that I can identify so I can mix and match without the software as long as the presets have been stored on the UW \ Hub and mapped to the MC6. It is a little convoluted but it works for me as I'm still a newbie trying to figure out what I like \ don't like and what I need to keep and what I can discard so I'd envisage doing some more factory resets as I go along. The aim is to get a set of sounds that I like for the sets that I'm learning with a couple of guitarists. Hope it helps and hopefully others can chip in with how to improve the workflow. I'm happy if someone shows me a better way even if it means I start again from scratch. The joys of retirement mean I have to try and learn this stuff and figure out scenes without buying anymore pedals ... though the collder looks like it could fill a gap on the pedal board. IGNORE BELOW - there seems to be some duplication of the screenshots. I'll go back and look to delete these when I have a moment.

Sorry for not replying sooner; somehow I missed your posts . But yes to the following. I’ve got a block of presets on the hub which include the UW + Gemini which are for my most used combined presets. But for noodling I have a block of Gemini presets on the hub (no UW included) and a block of presets on the UW and I can quickly mix and match different UW and Gemini presets via the software on the pc. I can do some screenshots if it helps.

I did the last one and it is definitely worthy of consideration. Positives (for me): The course is well structured and there are lots of exercises to practice skills which build progressively from module to module and exercise to exercise. There is something for everyone. I'm still a newbie but I found I improved considerably during the course. It is well paced \ it is possible to keep up. This reduces the risk of falling behind, losing enthusiasm and not completing the course. Cons: There is nothing new here that Scott (and others) haven't already covered on either freebie YouTube videos or on existing SBL subscriber content. But it is all in one place and it is very well produced. There is still a huge amount of woffle \ padding from Scott but I guess this comes with the territory. As usual; everyone's mileage will vary but I found the structure and my ability to keep up meant that I kept the focus and discipline to see it through to the end. While an SBL subscriber I seemed to fall prey to the magpie method of flitting from one shiny lesson to the next without completing anything properly. But that says more about me than SBL \ online lessons.

Good call - page 28 of the manual covers that - https://zoomcorp.com/media/documents/E_B3n.pdf

Perhaps I mis-used the B3N or just didn't know what I was doing but I don't think there is a way to turn a patch off as such. You just select another patch. And if you don't want any patches with effects applied then just select a "blank patch". The manual is here - https://zoomcorp.com/media/documents/E_B3n.pdf . Page 8 discusses the effects and Page 16 the patches. There are also manuals for: The effects - https://zoomcorp.com/media/documents/E_B3n_FX-list_3.pdf The patches - https://zoomcorp.com/media/documents/E_B3n_patch-list.pdf Apologies if I've completely misunderstood. For editing; you may find Tonelib Zoom easier than Guitar Lab (or editing via the pedal). It is a free download - https://tonelib.net/downloads.html

Yep - it'll take me a little figuring out to see how I want to work with this. What I'm doing at the moment and seems to work is: Connect the Gemini to the Neuro Hub Connect the Ultrawave to the Neuro Hub Connect the Ultrawave directly to my computer (USB) Use the Desktop editor to create a scene in the Neuro Hub that has a preset from the Ultrawave e.g. preset 120 Edit the Ultrawave preset (preset 120 from my example above) from the direct connection so that I have full edit capabilities. Save any changes to the Ultrawave preset 120 and refresh the Desktop editor connection to the Neuro Hub. This appears to pick up the changes to the Ultrawave preset. Comfigure the Gemini from the Neuro Hub connection (which I have to as there is no way to call the Gemini pedal presets through the hub). Hope the above makes sense .. as I say it seems to work ... but it may be luck or ignorance or both on my part. Another option I am considering is to remove the Ultrwave completely from the Neuro Hub and use the MC6 to create MC6 presets that combine an Ultrawave pedal preset (called via MIDI CC) with a Neuro Hub scene (called via MIDI PC) ... urrghhh .. my brain starts to hurt! It would be great to hear how others use these pedals.

Answered on the TalkBass forum ... looks like I'll keep using the way I do with scenes via the hub. As a quick add - I've collected the assorted Source Audio pedals from Andertons, Bass Direct and ThorpyFX over the last few months and had great service from all of them. A slight issue (missing cable) on the Gemini was sorted by Bass Direct \ Source Audio rep in the UK with no fuss \ hassle.

Hi All I'm looking for some advice on ways to manage the Source Audio pedal presets \ Neuro hub scenes \ MIDI controller (MC6). The pedals I have are the UltraWave Bass and the Gemini Chorus but I want to start to get organised for potentially adding a Collider and other pedals later. At the moment I have the Ultrawave and Gemini connected to the Neuro Hub and use the Neuro Desktop App to create scenes. I then call the scenes from the MC6. That would be great but the Ultrawave only has minimal configuration options via the hub so I’ve also got the Ultrawave connected to the Neuro Desktop so that I can create an Ultrawave preset and add it into a Neuro Hub scene all within the Neuro Desktop editor. What alternative workflows do others use for managing presets and scenes? E.g. are there advantages to using the Neuro Hub just to hold presets for the Gemini (so that I can have more than 6) and then to use the MC6 to make a MIDI call to the: UltraWave (MIDI CC 104 recall preset #) And Gemini (MIDI PC scene # via the neuro hub)? I'm trying to future proof my way of organising the presets and scenes in preparation for any future source audio pedal. Thanks in advance for any suggestions \ help Graham

Practice in the garden? In London? Is the Waza Air Bass waterproof as well? 💦 I'd agree with the battery life concern although given the price I'd probably be reluctant to use it as an everyday set of headphones for commuting \ travelling (although they are sturdily built).

You can connect to a laptop with the Neuro Desktop App using a mini-usb cable (in the aftershock) to a usb-c cable on your computer (assuming the aftershock has the same connectivity as the Gemini Chorus). For the mobile app; this is what is included in the box - https://www.sourceaudio.net/store/p3/neuro-cable.html Looking at Bass Direct - https://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/Soundblox_Aftershock_Bass_Distortion.html - it is listed as a 1/8” to 1/4” cable for Neuro Mobile App connection (as Mudpup has stated). To connect to a USB-C connection then you'll need something like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/GLUBEE-Adapter-Headphone-Support-Enhancer/dp/B087R9Z13S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+c+to+3.5mm&qid=1645129990&sr=8-3 I have my Gemini Chorus working both ways (with Desktop App and Mobile App) but I far prefer the Desktop App to the Mobile App .... but I think I might need to treat myself to a Neuro Hub .... and a MIDI controller ... and an expression pedal .... beware the source audio eco-system ...

Picked up from a google search \ reddit: "I recently put together an 11700k build with 32gb DDR4 3200mhz using all nvme storage and it absolutely flies. I'm yet to hit a ceiling with it in Reaper with boat loads of plugins. That's using the integrated UHD 750 graphics on the 11700k. Generally speaking though 16gb of ram should be fine, and you can always upgrade that later easily enough if you need to. " Some plug-ins will be CPU intensive so adding the extra grunt of an 11700K may prove beneficial but at the end of the day it is all about balance and trying to ensure you don't have an expensive component that is bottle necked elsewhere and you seem to have a good starting point. The motherboard seems to have plenty of connectivity options and 5 X SATA connections for disks. https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/Z590-UD-AC-rev-1x/sp#sp If you are running windows then as others have said; have separate physical disks - one for the Operating System and one for Applications and you might want to separate out audio \ project files onto another disk (or even onto another 2 disks which you could then configure in a mirror so that if one failed you would still have a copy on the other disk). I'm not so keen on using RAID for the OS or applications as you can just reinstall them should the drive fail but losing all your work is more of a pain. Depending on your level of paranoia you could also can also budget for some sort of backup device (RAID won't help you when you accidentally delete something you didn't mean to but a backup copy will save you grief). Disk 1 - Operating System Disk 2 - Applications Disk 3 - Audio \ Project files (with the possibility of disk 4 if you want to mirror disk 3). You could also consider an external hard drive so that if you do head somewhere without your desktop you could copy the audio files onto this and take them with you (on the assumption that you would be taking them to somewhere \ someone who had a computer where you could access them). The options to spend ever increasing amounts of cash are many and varied ... just like with the bass ... good luck!

Welcome Vince. I've joined only recently and have found everyone is really helpful and friendly.

I find Mark at Talking Bass has some great free lessons - https://www.talkingbass.net/lessonmap/ - which go much slower and more structured than much of what is on the internet. Some of the free lessons are individual modules from the paid courses so you can get a feel for the way he presents material. It can be a little dull and academic at times but it has helped me a lot. The pyschology of starting slower and building up speed is covered well here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=al1Jv2ybE5I - the title is click bait but I foundthe general process useful. This (I think) is the Gary Willis video that Bigwan is referring to ... it also helped me relax my thumb and fretting hand \ arm in general ..... a real lightbulb moment when this was pointed out to me:

A couple of things as a relative newbie myself and having gone through some of these challenges relatively recently. If it genuinely hurts and is causing a lot of pain then stop ... you shouldn't need to be bending and twisting anything in weird ways and if that is causing a lot of pain then continuing to play will only make things worse. Simply start at the 7th fret rather than the fifth and as you adapt to playing bass you'll find stretches will become easier over time (months and years rather than days or weeks). And be prepared to slide your index finger a little (or a lot) as you fret with your little finger depending on how big you can stretch as described here: Some other good ideas and a description of posture and position of the bass .... I also wouldn't get hung up on the one finger per fret for playing ... Don't expect miracles when it comes to learning. Think how long it would take you to learn a language or get fit enough to run a marathon if you are a couch potato (like me!). Trying to do too much too quickly can easily become demoralising and \ or cause injuries which hold you back even more. I started with a course called BassBuzz and found it a great introduction to Bass to get me playing quickly while focusing on good technique and introducing some basic music ltheory and learning the fretboard. Other options (paid and free) are available e.g. Scotts Bass Lessons and Talking Bass which are the links above).

I certainly agree to a large extent although I've tended to try and ensure that I don't lock myself into one eco system when there are other equally viable options out there for which the total cost of ownership for what I want to do is considerably less expensive. Everyones view of what "considerable" equates to in the previous sentance will be different and my definition has changed as I've had different commitments \ famliy responsibilities \ jobs over time. I appreciate that the OP has a Mac today ... if they buy Logic Pro then they'll need a Mac for as long as they want to use that software and directly use those skills ... and they'll have to budget for upgrades of Logic Pro ... I chose Reaper as it does what I want at a price I can afford. Everyone's mileage on this will differ based on what they want to achieve musically, their wider requirements for other software \ other requirements they have of a laptop and their budgets. Each DAW has a relatively long evaluation period so ideally I'd look to understand what someone wants from a DAW and evaluate a few of them to see which workflow works best for them. They could be using the software for the next 5 to 10 years so a few months to choose wisely is probably a good investment of time rather than just defaulting to what seems obvious now. At the end of the day they are just a tool to get a job done. Have fun with whatever is chosen.

The only caveat to Logic is that you are locking yourself into the Apple eco system in terms of hardware as well as software but if you are ok with that then Logic is the .. err ... logical choice. Logic Pro does come with a 90 day eval these days so you can give it a whirl without any commitment: https://www.apple.com/uk/logic-pro/trial/ Reaper and the likes of Bitwig all run on Windows, Mac and Linux although if you end up purchasing additional Reaper plug-ins then they not be so accomodating of Linux.