matski

Stand up and play it and find out...

[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1464596368' post='3060512'] Anyone have experience on how long they last before needing replacing? Wouldnt mind giving them a go [/quote] I've got a set of FatBeams on my StingRay 5. I put them on in January 2009...

Only happened to me once: because I refused point blank go to an audition for Opportunity Knocks.

Do these cobalts 'go off' over time?

[quote name='thebrig' timestamp='1462884717' post='3046606'] I have ten basses worth in total about 10 grand, I have one luxury strap which I use all the time, it's fitted with a Schaller strap-lock, and every single bass has a Schaller strap-lock peg fitted, you can buy the pegs separately for about a fiver a pair. Why scrimp on something that will protect your bass which not only costs a lot of money, but might be irreplaceable to you, no matter how much, or how little it costs. It's a no brainer for me. [/quote] I was going to add my views on this matter, but TheBrig has pretty much said word-for-word what I was going to say...

I like my bitsa Modding was necessary as it was originally a Fender JV Precision that I had left with a friend when I emigrated from England and I didn't get it back again until 15 years later. Twas in a shocking state: needed a new neck (twisted), tuners (seized up), pickups (rusty pole pieces), wiring (might as well, eh?), knobs (brass!), scratch plate (stickers all over), and last but not least a refinish. The only original parts left are the body and one pot! However it is now a great bass - especially for recording.

[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1459258166' post='3014823'] There were some Korean-made Thunders (a bolt-neck MIK T2 came up on Ebay a few months back) and I'd doubt they were built to the same standard as the Matsumoku originals. Maybe Matski's was one of those. J. [/quote] Possibly.... as it was awful.

I would go for an active Thunder 2 or 3 if I were you. I had a fretless Thunder 2A back in the day and it was great, a few years after I sold it I bought a Thunder 1 and it was awful - really cheap and nasty.

[quote name='Loudhailer UK' timestamp='1455912287' post='2983657'] When I got it I thought that the stings were all too close to the top edge of the fretboard - which they are on the photos above and below too. I think all Cutlasses are probably the same. It doesn't affect the playing tho... what do you other Cutlass owners think about that? [/quote] Hello. The strings on my 1983 Cutlass I are perfectly centred over the fretboard, and mine also has a 4-bolt neck and non through-body strings. However, I did buy mine second-hand (back in 1991) so the previous owner may have fiddled with the saddles beforehand.

Rats! Foiled again!

Baldwin Vibraslim? http://guitar-auctions.co.uk/portfolio-post/lot-188-baldwin-vibraslim-bass-guitar-made-in-england-circa-mid-to-late-1960/ Hagstrom? http://www.vintageandrare.com/product/Hagstrom-Bass-1960-Red-Stain-39992

[quote name='highwayman' timestamp='1455957320' post='2983878'] Thank you for the replies all; my favourite bass sound is Paul Raven's from Killing Joke's 'Night Time' - I know other factors such as amp, etc influence such things but that would be my ideal if that helps? [/quote] Then you want 2 band EQ (and probably a graphite neck as PR played a MM Cutlass bass).

[quote name='drTStingray' timestamp='1453676190' post='2961779'] All of the 2 bands, be they in USA Sub, standard Stingray 2 bands or Classic Rays (or pre Ernie Ball for that matter) do not have centre detent controls so yours won't have them.[/quote] Quick cheaty way to ascertain where the centre points are: when I first got my StingRay, I loosened the knobs and repositioned them so that the screw hole is directly on top when the EQ is in the middle (flat) position - makes it very easy to see what you are doing

Thanks, but I'll stick with my original Cutlass!

I see that you've relocated to Berlin. That's a pity - if you were still in Warsaw you could have borrowed mine.

Have you ever made a comparison video of a Classic StingRay and a pre-Ernie Ball StingRay?

Spotted this little beauty on eBay: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1976-Music-Man-Sting-Ray-Bass-GREAT-SOUND-FIRST-YEAR-OF-PRODUCTION-/252138284097?hash=item3ab49ce441:g:SEYAAOSwjVVV4qur"]http://www.ebay.co.u...EYAAOSwjVVV4qur[/url] Anyone out there in Basschatland looking for a '76 Ray?

Apparat. First sit-down gig I've been to in years. Fairly hard to describe music: 'film soundtrack' would be my closest guess. [media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zD4iuvGWalc[/media] BTW: this is not my recording - I'm old school and prefer to watch with my eyes and not through a phone camera...

Is your Stingray pre Ernie Ball? The reason I ask is because mine is and the neck profile is quite flat. I also have Fender Precisions and the closest match to my Stingray, in my opinion, is the 1957 reissue Precision.

I have a fretless Status S2000 5 string - it's active and has a lined fretboard. It cost me under a grand. It's from 1989 so has a bit of playing wear, which is fair enough as it does get gigged and so can take the odd knock without me freaking out. Bought it from the Basschat classified section.

That looks more like a Mexican '57 reissue to me - that style of logo, the metal scratch plate and the long-stem tuners are all features of 57 reissue P basses.

A couple of years ago my old band got booked to play an outdoor gig in January in Rzeszow in southern Poland. Ambient temperature was -10 degrees celsius. My hands were okay at first, then got really cold, then warmed up a bit later on - when I found the sweet spot on the stage: in front of the jetstream of hot air being pumped out by a large space heater...

Do not despair! I had a period of 6 years of not really playing and I remember that although I hadn't completely forgotten how o play, I definitely didn't have the chops I used to have. The good news is that you should find your skills come back pretty quickly.

Heh, knew you guys would nail it! Thanks!

Glad to see this thread is doing well! Question for guys who own Rics with the toaster/horseshoe pickups (V63, C64, CS sig, C64S macca sig) - is your horseshoe pickup cover magnetic? I'm asking as my 4003s has this pup configuration and the horsey cover IS magnetic - but I know this is pretty unusual and can't find out any info as to why mine is...