biro

i get your point. however, since I got this little piece of software, i've rarely found myself using the ampeg svx plugin. it sounds killer, that's true. but it's also pretty refined and needs a little bit of tweaking in order to perform well. i believe it's just me, maybe i prefer a more direct approach.

i had the opportunity to try a couple of sandbergs. one was a special model made for the italian site megabass.it, and was a well-playing simple instrument. kind of a no frill bass, with just a single sopabar pickup (delano, i suppose) in the sweet spot position. as far as I am concerned, it was a good instrument, but nothing really special. I also played a 5 string active jazz clone (ash/maple/maple) with delano pick ups: in that particular case I was kind of disappointed. It was, of course, a beautiful bass, great looks and excellent finish. It was also a joy to play, but I ended up thinking that it was kind of lacking in personality.

hey fellas, I've had a sansamp clone by behringer for a long time, and eventually, it died in some misterious circumstances. I've thought about replacing it, but since I'm kind of a nerdy gearhead and I usually yield to my natural inclination I decided to check for some VSTs. apparently, this fits the needs I had just right. this said, I recorded a very short sample (perhaps the shortest ever). It's just a short bassline on a power rock groove, but you should be able to get an idea of how it sounds. [url="http://soundcloud.com/ballpointmusic/sansamp"]http://soundcloud.com/ballpointmusic/sansamp[/url] post scriptum: the bass is an SX JB. posterius scriptum: how stoned am I? I completely forgot to add the link to the download page: [url="http://www.theserinaexperiment.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=68"]http://www.theserinaexperiment.net/forum/v...hp?f=9&t=68[/url]

My 2 cents: I've had the io2 for two days, then I simply could jot stand the incredible latency issues anymore and promptly returned it.

[quote name='Chris2112' post='1359895' date='Sep 2 2011, 03:14 PM']They are better than the equivalent jazz bass, or any jazz bass save for the big money ones. You'd have to spend some cash to get a jazz bass with similar spec (ebony board, flamed maple top, etc etc). They are essentially very different to the usuL choices of Musicman and Fender. The mk1 models are easily as well built. If a 6 string is what you want you may struggle to do better for the price. I'd go for a big money TRB if I wanted N6 string, but you could get two Myung basses and change for the price of a TRB. I doubt you'd be disappointed with a mk1 model, put it that way.[/quote] i'll have to disagree with that: i don't really think trb's are better built. I do believe, on the contrary, that the yamaha myung is a conceptually simpler bass and the simplicity of its design entails some consequences one could consider "rough edges". EDIT: sorry, I've mistaken your words. I now see you were referring to the higher priced trb's, and I actually agree with everything you said.

fun fact (oh, boy: here we go again) about the sound: in order to get the "overdub" effect, I've decided to develop a guitar rig patch that basically works like this: the signal is split in two channel, one panned full R and the other full L. the I add an extremely short delay (about 15ms) with as little feedback as possible and set it to be completely wet. this way, however, one track is always 15ms ahead of the other, and it still sounds very different from an actual overdubbed recording. to achieve this effect, I use the guitar rig modifier, basically an LFO you can assign to whatever guitar rig parameter. I set it to control the "time" parameter on the delay with a slow sine wave and with very little depth. this way, the time parameter constantly varies between around 10ms and 20 ms, allowing you record just one track. it really works for most purposes. here is a screenshot of my guitar rig settings: [url="http://postimage.org/image/2gw7ekaqs/"][/url]

thanks a lot fellas, it's good to have some feedback. I'm still considering selling this bass, but everytime I listen to some recording I've made with it I start fearing that I would deeply regret doing so. and TL-6's are hard to find nowadays. mh.

hey, this is my latest tapping video. I'm in some kind of recording spree this week, so I'm constantly producing stuff - and I am not so sure whether it's a good thing or not, to be honest. therefore, I hereby submit to your attention the attached video.

where do you hear the buzz? the rule of thumb in this cases is that to check the exact location of the rattle/buzz. if it's on the first 4-5 frets, the neck is too straight, otherwise it's just a matter of frets/touch. can you adjust the string spacing on your bridge? that might be an additional tweak, if the rattle is located on a determined spot. shimming the neck always helps if you want to lower the action, as it provides more room to do so. I am aware of some theories about the effects of a shim as far as sound vibrations are concerned, but I've never experienced any problem even when using with the most unsuitable materials. btw, I've always heard wonders about Sads' fretwork, so I take it that you could easily get a relief as low as a 0.20 mm gap between the bottom of the string and the 8th fret (while, obviously, pressing the first and last fret).

ok, and here we go: I'll try to explain everything I've done as thoroughly as I can. First of all, I'm only covering the PC side. I know for sure that you can do that on a mac even more easily, but, as I don't have one here, I'm not able to provide any explanation. What I know about it is that OSX should have a native utility to handle midi over wifi messages, but, hey, that's all I know, and it's definitely not much. [b][/b]what you need:[b][/b] a musical instrument/microphone/et cetera; a laptop with an audio interface/integrated sound card; an iPhone, iPad, iPod touch; an iOS application called iXY[url="http://www.cmsoftwaredesigns.com/site/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=49&Itemid=59"](link)[/url]; [url="http://nerds.de/en/loopbe1.html"]A free virtual midi driver like LoopBE1[/url] a server application known as DSWiFiMIDI - download it from [url="http://code.google.com/p/dsmi/downloads/list"]here[/url]; then: 1) install loopBE1 -> it's also free; 2) unpack DSWifiMIDI in a folder you like (I created a folder within dropbox since I'm always scared of accidentally deleting things); 3) run LoopBE1 and DSWifiMIDI; 4) within the DSWifiMIDI window, choose LoopBE as the default midi output: this will eventually allow to rewire the incoming midi signal from your iPhone to your favourite DAW. Like this: [url="http://postimage.org/image/ovarnj7o/"]http://postimage.org/image/ovarnj7o/[/url] 5) open your DAW and be sure to add and activate LoopBE1 as a midi input. [b]And what now?[/b] Well, whilst the procedure might be slightly different for other DAWs, the procedure in reaper shows some general principles which could come handy to refer to even while working with a difference sequencer. First of all, open reaper and create two tracks. Open a guitar rig instance as an insert on the first track; feel free to arm the track and switch the monitoring button on. On the second track, right click on the "arm recordin button" and select "input: MIDI" and in the dropdown/dropout menu coming out select "all midi inputs". Once you've done that you have to create a send from track 2 to track 1. Why? Because this way you will manage to send a midi signal to guitar rig while simultaneously being able to feed it an audio input. so, holding down ctrl, click on the send/receive area of track n. 2 and drag and drop a send on the same area on track 1. This should come out: [url="http://postimage.org/image/1j6humvk4/"]http://postimage.org/image/1j6humvk4/[/url] basically, let it send every midi signal, and prevent it from sending audio - although it won't happen anyways. Now, arm track 2 as well and press the monitoring button. As far as the DAW configuration goes, your job is done. You only have to configure guitar rig and you are good to go. click again on guitar rig until the window gets in the foreground, open a preset you want to be able to control, click on the "options" button to open the correspondent pane. click on "controller" and select "add a controller". associate the controller with the device you want to controll (e.g. whammy pedal, delay feedback, amount of distortion...), then press learn. all you have to do now is open iXY on your phone and start moving your finger across the screen in the desired direction. remember you can control (as I am given understand) 4 different parameters on two pads with a split screen. of course, you can also associate more controllers to the same movement on the X or Y axis. as you move your fingers on the iPhone you should start seeing a movement on the controller [b]and you're done![/b] hope this helps

I'm trying to move on to associate one of the pads on the iphone to the start/stop loop machine button in guitar rig. more on that when I'm done with the next video.

yeah, but the tanglewod might actually be (i.e. sound) better if it's wooden. although really had to say that my cort curbow fretless was a killer bass.

you know you've got the greatest nickname ever, do you? btw, I would check have you tried cort? I they're still making a 5 string curbow, that would probably be a great choice. if you are into [cheap] fender clones, why don't you check rondomusic for 5 string JBs. as far as I know, they come with very narrow string spacing!

anytime!

hey, here's just anexample of how you can use an iPhone to control various parameters within guitar rig. i hope it comes handy to someone!

in brief: any good? if it's a first generation RBXJM (the one with 2 pick ups) I would go as far as to say that it's VERY good. I've heard mixed opinions about the newer model. I've only seen it once, and it didn't impress me. But I have NOT played it. The only thing a little wrong with that bass is probably the electronics (not the pickups), but you are gonna stay safe as long as you don't tweak the pots too much. It's got a very fast attack, something that is not really usual (IMO) with yamaha basses, and the ebony fingerboard makes it sound very... I'd say "precise", if you will. I personally like its sound a lot. One important thing to be aware of: string spacing. It is very narrow, around 15-16 mm, and you really have to get used to it (you do, eventually, in 20 minutes). It is by no means as wide as that of a TRB. this said, I remember that bass as a joy to play. the narrow string spacing allows for a slimmer neck, which is a plus for me. I wouldn't pay more than £500.

reaper, reaper, reaper. but I've really got to say that I'm a big fan of propellerhead softwares. Reason has been a companion of mine for many years now, and I must say that as far as audio production goes, it really allows you to do some stuff you migt even like to listen to in a very short amount of time. This said, there's almost nothing you couldn't do with reaper + a bunch of free vsts and soundfonts, so, If I were to choose now I would definitely try to use reaper as much as I can. It really is one hell of a DAW.

I understand that having a router in my pedalboard makes me look like some facebook addict. But what I'm trying to do is actually a completely different story. About one year ago I saw Muse performing in Milwaukee and I was really impressed by Bellamy's use of the Kaosspad. As far as I can understand, he Kaoss Pad is actually in his pedalboard and he controls it via midi with a touchpad embedded in his guitar. Well, I happen to own an iPhone, so I've decided to try to use it as a control surface in order to achieve my ultimate goal: looking extremely cool. I'm just messing around while controlling the whammy pedal simulator in guitar rig, but still I think it's a pretty good example of what one can create out of pure boredom (and of the endless capabilities of Guitar Rig, of course).

[quote name='Dad3353' post='1350573' date='Aug 24 2011, 07:28 PM']Good evening, biro...[/quote] thanks a lot, it sounds great. i'm gonna be very short of funds really soon, and knowing that there are some other inexpensive sixers makes the idea much more tolerable.