Jump to content
Why become a member? ×
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt

Suburban Man

⭐Supporting Member⭐
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    65

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Suburban Man

  1. Suburban Man
    I can confirm that about 12ms delay is noticeable, although it won't stop you playing, it is really annoying.
  2. Suburban Man
    You're right! My eyesight must be a lot worse than I thought it was...
  3. Suburban Man
    I do wonder why you want a tweeter with an 8" speaker? Most 8" speakers have pretty good HF response. Here's data for a typical 8" speaker (note this measurement is for a sealed enclosure not a ported enclosure - a properly designed port will give more low end): I would say, first step, do you have the data for your 8" speaker?
  4. Suburban Man
    Small venue Line systems also available from LD systems, dB Technologies, Bose etc. And of course a multi-cab Line system is what you see slung for all the bigger theatre venues and Event stages...
  5. Suburban Man
    Although to run to the defence of Bose, if you do know what you are doing, they can sound excellent - just a bit niche and need some thought about when/where to use them.
  6. Suburban Man
    TV Studio desks aren't really organised for music mixing. TV Centre Studio 3 used to have a completely different setup to other studios in order to do a few live TOTP shows
  7. Suburban Man
    Since you have a very desireable Jack Casady Bass, why not take a look at this: What you will learn is that with that sort of body, pickup and flatwounds you have a tone close to an acoustic bass. This may not be entirely what you want...
  8. Suburban Man
    Ok, at this point you either enjoy the one channel or pass it over to someone who can take it apart! Since the protection lights aren't showing, there is almost certainly quite a major fault on the main amplifier board of the non-working channel, but its buried under that huge heatsink, so next step would be to take that heatsink off and check how things are looking underneath. Beyond that - don't know. Sorry!
  9. Suburban Man
    Yes that is them. I'm hoping that they are the feeds from the main amp to the speakers (via the relay)
  10. Suburban Man
    And apologies for muddying the water. What I've just said should be correct, my original comment about the 'output board' being faulty if the fault swapped channels was completely wrong 😞
  11. Suburban Man
    No. If you look on the board behind the speakon connector for the left channel, towards the edge, there is an orange cable (probably screened) going to a connector marked LCH IN A bit further along, behind the speakon connector for the right channel is a white cable going to a connector marked RCH IN If the fault is on the amplifier board then swapping those two will swap the fault. If the fault is on the output board then the non-working channel will stay as it is.
  12. Suburban Man
    You could try swapping those orange and white wires - if they are on plug-in connectors - 'LCH IN' and 'RCH IN'. If the fault swaps channel, then there's nothing wrong with the output board If nothing is looking burnt or over-heated, then its pretty much into voltmeter and test set territory I think. If I was going to guess, I'd say that one of the IC's under that big heat sink has just expired
  13. Suburban Man
    The problem as I see it, is not enough lawyers or bankers play bass.
  14. Suburban Man
    I acquired these as part of a trade and don't have an immediate use for them, so moving them on Two cabinets, both in very good condition. Each 2 x10 plus a tweeter, 8ohms impedance, 250W power handling. Speakon or standard jack input. Custom Roqsolid cover for each speaker £125 each or £220 for the pair.
  15. Suburban Man
    Any of you home-studio builders, here is a used, but still entirely functional, floorstanding rack cabinet with 16U of rack strip to hold all that outboard gear and tidy up all the cables Externally it is 54cm wide, 90cm high, 51cm deep at the base and 43cm deep at the top (the rack strip is slightly tilted backwards) Comes with: One switched 12 x 6A IEC output Mains Distribution Unit (single Powercon in, single unswitched Powercon out) for powering all the rack equipment 13A mains to powercon cable 7 x IEC cables - various lengths 3U rack shelf 40cm deep 2U rack shelf 22cm deep 1U vent panel 1U 6x13A mains panel (fed via an IEC from the MDU Various rack bolts, washers and rack nuts Its been well-used so there are a few scrapes and the odd screw hole but the construction is still fundamentally sound. Construction is MDF, screwed at the base and reinforced with a couple of brackets at the top It has eight sliders on the base so it can be moved around on carpet without harm. Anyone wanting to use it on a parquet floor will have to fit something else. Message with any offers, delivery options etc. I'm flexible
  16. Suburban Man
    More likely poor earthing somewhere - possibly the mains sockets that you were using. Would going wireless be an option?
  17. Suburban Man
    Its ok, look its only supposed to be used by guitarists... (winces...)
  18. Suburban Man
    Hi, I used to have a Hohner Jack and as I recall the 'earth' wire running to the bridge didn't have any specific connection, but just sat on the body of the bass, with the connection being achieved by having the bridge screwed down on top of it. Over time its the sort of arrangement that is probably going to cause a high(er) resistance than the nice solid connection that should stop any humming. Might be worth looking to see if there is corrosion on the end of that wire, or if it isn't making direct contact any more?
  19. Suburban Man
    I've used the Maui 28 and it was excellent. My thoughts are that it would fill most small venues. The 44 looks like it would have a lot of headroom - which is never a bad thing.
  20. Suburban Man
    Well, you know that your 3kW PA will work off one 13A outlet, so if you just say - 'we need Two 13A outlets' - then I would have thought that should be enough for most venues. If they say 'How many kW' then 5kW (22 Amps) would be a good estimate without actually putting a meter across the mains and dynamically measuring it. That's going to be 5kW Peak, so the actual current that you draw at any given moment will be less than that.
  21. Suburban Man
    All good stuff from Dad. Your 3kW PA system should (just) work off a standard domestic 13A outlet (13A x 230V = 2.9kW) but would probably be better being fed from a 16A unfused socket. The In Ears rack will probably draw a fraction of an amp, so its down to the amount of backline that you carry and your lighting which as Dad says, you just have to add up to get a grand total. I don't know how you usually plug into the venue power system but a 'pro' electrical solution would be a couple of those big blue 16A BS4343 plugs - often known as 'Commando Plugs' - which have the advantage of not containing fuses. One for the PA, one for everything else. Might be overkill for some venues however...
  22. Suburban Man
  23. Suburban Man
    YES! Exactly so: half and half and half again (repeat until in a suitably neat bundle) followed by a loose tie to keep them together. There is a logic to this, since you are twisting the cable, but in different directions, so the net result is zero twists.
  24. Suburban Man
    AllParts is a Uk company that specialises in guitar hardware and components: https://www.allparts.uk.com/ Although they are US-based StewMac will mail parts to different countries: https://www.stewmac.com You will need to find out EXACTLY what you want however- 250k pot or 500k pot, if its volume it will be 'log' rather than linear, and since it looks like its a dual pot you will need someone with decent soldering skills to remove the old and put in new. Good luck!
  25. Suburban Man
    Hi, this looks like a useful box, if its still available I'd like to buy. thanks Nick
×
×
  • Create New...