Downunderwonder

Mine was probably intended as a school bag. The "lunch" pocket takes the amp. The "main school stuff gubbins compartment" aka cables has a sheath handy for music.

When gains are turned up to no avail either the amp has run out of poke or the speaker is either overheating or distorting, or both, or all at the same time. I don't know that I could tell only from listening where a distortion was originating. My experience and knowledge of gear would guide me. Since the OP speaker hasn't died the OP must be sensitive to the signs or the amp hasn't enough poke. As he is asking what he should do I can't give him enough credit to recognise the signs therefore the amp is lacking the poke at 8ohm to kill the cab. It is at full output with the one cab. I could be wrong. There is a bit of reading between lines.

At least mini skirts are back in fashion.

OP is already at full power with the one cab!!!

You are having the cake and eating the cake at the same time. I put a little delay on it is all. With a class D amp you don't get the double power to go with the impedance halving that used to be the case with solid state amps. So something less than 6dB extra unless TC have gone back to A/B somewhere along the line. Quid pro quo the available 8 ohm voltage is not actually maintained at the rated 4 ohm balls out level.

The corollary is you can't easily add a 210 to 110 and 110 if you are needing to get loud sometimes. You could do a series cable setup for the 110 pair but the haulage would be a phaff compared to 210 and 210 So there is the rub. Carry more than you need sometimes. Or not be able to expand it so easily. Really depends on how often you would be comfy using just 110 and how you value that extra ease.

I was accounting for the actual increased power output separately to the sensitivity advantage.

It's one thing to split. Another altogether to recombine. There's a whole raft of stuff I wrote on this back when I was doing it, so it's all on the other side of the Atlantic centric forum. Short version. Distortions and chorus among others return the signal out of phase with what went in. This is of no consequence when pedals are in series full range. Different story when reblending an effected return with its original low end to send to the amp. At the crossover frequency they cancel one another out. It's more complicated when you run multiple pedals and some return out of phase and some do not and sometimes you have more than one running at the same time. Leaving aside the fact that some pedals are some other degree of delayed than 180°, two phase flippers in series returns an in phase signal. I had a very complicated arrangement of a bigarse blender with phase control on multiple channels so that I could always have a full lush result. Rolls sx21 crossover did the split.

Put your fingers in the wrong place and they could wind up as useful as hooves.

Drivers usually measure DC resistance a significant amount under the impedance rating. I don't know about almost half but it could go some way to explaining why it didn't sound right. Usually they blow fully open circuit but I guess it could short instead?

This. You may even find the full TC wattage through twin cabs quite loud enough without need of MOAR POWER. Two cabs is like having 2 times the watts just for being more efficient at converting power into sound than one cab. Then you actually do get something like half as much power again out of the amp at 4 ohms, so there's an extra kick from that too. TLDR, two cabs is vastly louder than one cab when there is a small amp.

Something about it screams, Burns having a nightmare.

CountryMan 85 is the standard speaker level DI. Just make sure you plug it in correctly. No idiots allowed.

I wonder how many dropkicks had it before it was forgotten to be the Beatle one? Maybe none and the whole "collection" is some now dead thief's stash.

The lead out of the back goes to the speaker terminals. No reason to suspect it goes anywhere near the handles. If it did it would bounce off the drill. You would need a direct hit with malice to do any damage. You can see how thick the cab material is so there's no reason to drill right through it anyway. Mark drill with a wrap of tape a mm short of what it would take to go right through.

How so? As a DI preamp I can't for the life of me fathom why it doesn't have pre and post loops for more fx. Otherwise, it's got a lot going on that covers a whole lot of ground, including the famed SMX dual band compressor. I appreciate you are already covered for compression, just curious how it got written off.

Pretty darn unlikely to hit anything for starters. If you tape your drill bit so it only gets to the other side and no more before hitting the tape you definitely won't hit anything. If your screws are only as long as the panel and handle plate are thick you can't hit anything.

That's not true at all. Insert Antonio Banderas meme about misunderstandings here. Everyone has to be on the same page or folks are getting the wrong end of several sticks. Most bridges have adjustable saddles. There are all kinds of arrangements but the thing in common is the saddle is the part that the string rides on. That's why it is called the saddle.

It appears they may have pulled their socks up. I just tried bass guitar pro shop and not a single fish popped up. I deserted Google years ago on account of it ignoring my terms to give me advertising with slim to no relevance at all based on just some of the terms. No, am not so thick that I put extra random terms in my search requests!

Better is best.

80hz would be as good as any?

It's for sale. I'd like to hear it at 10 20 30% OD pretty please!

You might find a used Trace SMX compressor pedal for £100. Can't get any simpler for having three knobs. One for highs one for lows and the EQ balancer. Subtle as a subtle thing until you crank on it and then you know what you did wrong. Dood does a really good demo of the one in his TransitB which gives you a good idea what it is about. You could do worse than a couple of pedals gone byebye and go with the TransitB. Unity gain distortion is the holy grail. Never go for the overdrive and blow out the room again. They seem to be going around the £200 mark. Friggen bargain.