Downunderwonder

Any other other situation I am the same. But I am not a complete recording novice and I know in studios instruments are routinely subbed in from the studio stable so my thought on seeing one left out during my session is it is there for my use. Just my representative 10c as a generally very considerate person on what a studio owner should expect from a band showing up. Carte blanche on the studio instruments. Don't leave personal instruments laying around a recording studio if you are going to be precious about someone picking them up and playing them.

It's possible. The sound you are getting is because the headphone interrupt to the speaker has malfunctioned. Otherwise you would be getting nothing at all. Plugging in headphones may or may not help the situation but I wouldn't in case the headphones got sent speaker voltage and that would be real bad.

I haven't spent much time in recording studios. I think if there was a guitar left out I would assume it was there to be played and I might well pick it up and play it without asking first. No way I would leave my private stuff laying around for any old scumbag musician to pick up and play. So I think that one is on you.

Best be clear if you are the sound crew as well as the headliners. Big difference. This doesn't sound like an established biker rally with someone in charge of the entertainment who is engaging bands, crew, security, staging, power yada yada yada.... Be wary or you might be showing up and they ask you where your generator is.

2 months in. 7 pages. I started to read it all again but it's too much. I think a new thread is in order. List all what you tried and what worked a little or a lot and what was shot down. Full gear list.

You are a swimwear model in your spare time. That's a claim too.

Red Dragon. Possibly still available by special order.

At the end of the day a sticker is only an invitation to make an offer.

I was at a gig in an old building that had a bank downstairs. The dance style of the day was 'vertical' and the resonant frequency of the poor old timber floor was reached. The modern ceiling in the bank downstairs suffered. I am sure nobody tried to sue the band, but maybe they would if it happened today???

Ain't no hearing no stink'n' midrange from a 15 when there's a 410 on top of it receiving the same signal.

How far are you from Ashdown HQ? They are excellent about servicing their stuff, by nearly all accounts. To my mind the amp was fine when you picked it up. Ergo the failure is on your watch so to speak. Playing around with buttons and features is something to be done on the test drive. As a seller of a fully functional amp I would be highly suspicious that you gave it an illegal load or dropped it or something. Don't know you from Adam. On a different tack. Make sure you didn't leave the subharmonic 'muddifier' button engaged.

Bassman Paul must be late out of bed this morning. He would normally be telling you to abandon the 15 as 15 plus 410 = blown 15 very easily and it's a bad match. He's right. But 300w of Trace really shouldn't blow a 15 paired with a 410 unless you give it an absolute bootful of bass. All the same it wouldn't be a bad idea to give it away and get another 410 because over time it will blow up again. Or you might find swapping wires on the Eminence gets you where you want to be for free.

Do over time. As I understand your OP you blew up the original Hartke 15 replacing it with an Eminence that is disappointing you. I am saying the Eminence may be miswired. It's an easy thing to check if there are any 1/4" connections anywhere on either cab and you have a 9v battery and a spare 1/4" lead of any description. The reason is 15" Eminence drivers tolerate a fair range of cabinet tuning, and "lack of punch" could easily mean the lows are on opposite phase. To answer your query about fixing the Hartke 15, that's a definite maybe. You can get it reconed if Hartke are still in business selling the kits. Basically everything apart from the magnet and frame is replaced by an expert with the right tools and glue. It should be good as new and maybe 30% to 50% cheaper than binning it and buying new. But I would sure take 5 minutes to check the polarity was good before doing anything else. With 9V applied to both cabs they should send their drivers in the same direction.

Check your polarity. The 15 could be fighting the 410 and losing badly.

Leave the drumming to the drummer.

The thread got whimsical from the start, Goeth and Faust were operatic writers? In what sense was the dog involved?

It comes over like something from The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy. "Hurry up or you'll be late". "Late for what?" "As in the late Arthur Dent". The alien was not very good at making threats. I am feeling sorry for the original poodle that inspired the expression. It sounds like he must have been disemboweled.

= Toast or smashed drivers if you aren't careful.

1 wavelength it is then. 3x works too. 4 x takes in the octave below as well but usually not too much 55hz flying around.

Glad to see my advice gets taken on board sometimes.

I had a rattle like that. I was sure it was the cabinet. It turned out to be the kitchen cabinet instead. The sound you hear first has a tendency to appear to be the only source even when the 2nd sound is louder. If it is indeed the cab a rattle can sometimes be found by sitting on each side in turn to see if it can be killed.

I can read that both ways. Moderately ample and want something nice. Moderately measured only spending the minimum necessary. Used gear is always the best bargain. I am not familiar with your Lainey. Some older gear gets mighty loud with a number on the front that would almost get another zero on it today. I exaggerate but you get my drift. A bigger number than 60 would not go amiss. Rumble 100 is a mystery to me. When I got to use one I had my highpass filter in front of it and it got stupid loud. The guy on before me was loud enough I was sure it was piped into front of house. It wasn't so I was more than a little nervous until I got up and running. Used Elf amps and 110 cabs are frequently in the classifieds. Your budget may stretch to a Barefaced cab.

A MD for a production offered me a fraction of my regular day's wages to be available all day for soundcheck/rehearsal and the gig, and two more evening rehearsals that eventuated into four or five. It was a very slow moving bullet that I dodged. The promoter made hundreds of thousands on the show. Some people have some hide.

You have it covered for the meantime but for future reference it's pretty easy to figure out what each cable is doing if you have a multimeter. The rough way would be plug in and see what the voltage is coming out the output. A power doubler will have the same as the input. A voltage doubler will have.... yup. More brain involvement way would be to check the continuities of the plugs at each end. Power doubler has everything in parallel at the input, centers and barrels. Voltage doubler puts the one up the other in series. The centre of one input side will be continuous with the barrel of the other side. The other two will be continuous with their respective output ends.

I believe a good tad more is usual with class D. Double was the rule for older solid state but this newfangled stuff is more like 66% @8 to 100% @4 so 160w thereabouts for your 250w amp. The other point that needs stressing is that we're talking about the clean power rating. Depending on the quality of the amp it may put out a clean enough thump if you send it. That thump could be most of the 500w briefly, and briefly is all it takes to shred a driver.