Beedster

Just found this 4/4 board but it ain't cheap https://www.woodbrass.com/en-gb/fingerboard-gewa-4-4-double-bass-fingerboard-ebony-quality-1a-p241917.html As @JoeEvans says, best bet might be to get it planed and see how it goes

BTW I looked for off the shelf boards for the 4/4 bass I'm working on and didn't have much luck. Most blanks from decent suppliers only appear to go up to 3/4, although given how much basses vary in size, it might still work https://caswells-strings.co.uk/product/fingerboards-ebony-bass/

Ha ha,. sorry mate I assume you're thinking of doing it yourself? The board wood, even shaped blanks, is pretty cheap, it's fitting it and setting it up that's the real challenge as the chances of even quite a well shaped blank being a close fit are slim. While I have no idea how skilled you are in the shed, I'm competent, there are woodworking jobs I can do, and there are those I can't, and I'd put it firmly in the latter, especially as any change in thickness and/or shape will have implications for the bridge and the nut and I wouldn't want to have to reshape those also. I suspect it's a job best left to the pros Jack, others may however be more optimistic 👍

...either way thinning an already unstable board will likely make it more unstable?

Great minds Joe

Crikey, that's a but of a shocker Jack. Is it the board only or board and neck that have moved? I'm currently restoring an old German upright and while the board has moved a little the neck itself hasn't. If your's is the same, given the board wood in question has moved so much in so little time, might a new - and possibly more stable - board be an option?

Many thanks @agedhorse, is this the sort of thing that if I get wrong I've wasted some cash, or if I get wrong I've damaged the amplifier?

Here you go, Fender Fat Finger https://www.fender.com/en-GB/accessories/miscellaneous/fatfinger-guitar-sustain-enhancer/0992180100.html ....and a chat chat about it being used to correct the same problem as yours on TalkBass https://www.talkbass.com/threads/fat-finger-works-but-worth-it.1423115/#google_vignette

Hi mate, is this a new bass? You know what you're doing with fretless so I'm assuming you've already checked the factors @Doctor J identified? As soon as I hear the words G string and Stingray in the same sentence I'm assuming the classic weak top string problem. I'm going back a very long way, but when I had this I used one of those headstock weights that corrected it to a degree (I forget the name).

They're lucky enough to have a safe marketplace in the shape of US fanboys for all things US Fender

Absof***inglutely, what a mess. Add a old school BBOT bridge, remove the PUP cover, and it would be passable, at present it all looks like an afterthought as opposed to a plan

Nicely put, my view also 👍

I assume the drummer just wants to hear a well balanced but lower volume version of what he hears while playing acoustically, ear protectors only do part of this. It's a good idea to my mind, we used to play with a loud drummer who used ear defenders which meant he tended to play even louder, meaning we had to either use use in-ears or risk damaging our hearing.

Bought a collection of bass bits from Steve, arrived quickly and packed to perfection with great comms (and I should say priced significantly below what they were collectively worth). Great to deal with one of the forum's top geezers, many thanks Steve, I'm sure there'll be more 👍

Thanks @agedhorse, I assume an off the shelf 7-pin to 5-pin cable's not going to do the job then?

How many watts = how long is a piece of string As per previous thread, you can never have too many, only too few 👍

Thanks Pete, I'm not sure, I guess it depends on how it's connected, @agedhorse @sandy_r any thoughts?