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warwickhunt

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Posts posted by warwickhunt

  1. [quote name='Rumble' post='22285' date='Jun 23 2007, 11:04 AM']That's a very nice pair! How do you choose which one you're going to play?[/quote]

    Depends which band, what venue and how I'm feeling :huh:

    The Stage I is a lot more growly and aggressive whereas the Stage II sits further in the mix. I can happily live with either bass but I sometimes get those days when I am getting gear together for a gig that I feel like a certain bass would better suit my mood...

    Oh is it just me then and nobody else feels like that :) !

  2. [quote name='warwickhunt' post='22253' date='Jun 23 2007, 08:47 AM']Guess what I'm going to suggest... :)

    Warwick Streamer Stage I for you P (& J) dilemma (IMHO an 80's SS I rolled onto the P pup alone nails the P bass tone with tone to spare).

    Warwick Streamer Stage II if you solely fancy that Jazz tone![/quote]

    A bit like these...



  3. It may help you get a price in perspective; I sold the 900 watt BIG brother to your head at the beginning of this year and IIRC I got £400 for it.

    Consider that any one looking for a 400 - 500 watt head is also going to think 'hmmm a 'new' MB head will cost me £500 or I can buy this 2nd hand Warwick for £???'.

    Sadly, you do realistically have to consider what you can get for you money now rather than what you paid for your amp 8 years ago. It may have cost the thick end of almost a grand but now you can get 500 watt heads from most manufacturers for about half that price. The very reason that you are thinking of selling might be the same reason that other people 'may' not want your amp.

    However, there are exceptions to every rule and a quality valve amp will always retain a good chunk of its value due to its die hard legion of fans and there will always be a market for good quality solid state amps (which yours is), you just have to accept that the value [b]may[/b] be lower than the usual anticipated 50% of retail.

  4. Guess what I'm going to suggest... :)

    Warwick Streamer Stage I for you P (& J) dilemma (IMHO an 80's SS I rolled onto the P pup alone nails the P bass tone with tone to spare).

    Warwick Streamer Stage II if you solely fancy that Jazz tone!

  5. I owned Ashdown gear before it went East and I have to say that I had a mute button that didn't, a VU meter that meant 'virtually useless' and tolex covering that came off quicker than a fat lasses knickers down the Bigg Market (Newcastle) on a Saturday night!

    Saying that... you get good-uns and bad-uns from any manufacturer.

  6. Ouch. I feel for you but it may make you feel better to know it could have been worse...

    A friend did something similar a few years ago but on breaking his fall he severed a whole bunch of nerves in his fretting hand!

    They will never properly grow back, plays havoc with your technique.

  7. [quote name='Beedster' post='21722' date='Jun 22 2007, 08:37 AM']... and is no longer a registered user...? Draw your own conslucions there I think :)[/quote]

    Buyer and seller are both no longer registered users!

    A good tip for newbie eBayers who are wary of a similar situation, is to watch out for 0 rated new sellers who have similar user names as those just used in this attempted scam. You tend to find that they have very little imagination and invariably use a similar ID each time. Not fool-proof but you'd be surprised!

  8. I had a BBE T-max bass preamp that required an £8 adapter and worked fine. Some pieces of equipment that have an external power supply simply need an equivalent wall-wart power supply. Maplins and the like do all sorts of step-up/down transformers, a little bit of research on the particular manufacturers website will normally give you all of the info you need but in short... Yes

  9. I'd never advocate cancelling one bands gigs in favour of another. To keep sane and fair it should be a case of if band A books a gig then band B gets an offer the B offer has to be turned down! If you don't you end up with loads of potential grief.

  10. I have 3 bands on the go due to guitarists and singers not wanting to gig too often!

    Save yourself some grief and form a rhythm section with your drummer. Far easier to find work, you get to know each others playing more and if you are both in 2 bands together (as opposed to 3 bands if you both got alternative bands) it makes it far easier to schedule gigs. The added benefit is that if one of the bands that you are in has to cancel due to a problem with guitarist or singer you simply do it with your other band!

  11. Yeh it's been modded and then put back for resale, strange they didn't put the controls back to where they would have been originally (or maybe the seller preferred it that way). Either way I'm not sure that you'd be able to get a refund from CC as the bass was surely sold like that with a picture!
    If you want to put it back to active, then the battery would just sit in the compartment (standard sized route for ease of CNC work across the Warwick range). If the bass plays nice I'd not be too fussed about the extra hole so long as it had a bung or false control in there.

  12. They were Tech Soundsystems then Tecamp, name change is apparently because the company owner likes to keep moving with the times. Same drivers and construction just a different aesthetic. I kind of agree with the comment about the handles but it's a small price to pay if it saves weight and you get used to them, they aren't completely rubbish!

    The same company also make a pro quality guitar amp which has again changed names at about the same time.

  13. [quote name='dave_bass5' post='20595' date='Jun 20 2007, 09:23 AM']The only thing i need to do now is to solder the wires on the first driver as at the moment i have one set going through the spring loaded clips and then the connecting wire's wrapped around them. Ill just put a load of solder on them and hopefully do the cab up for the last time.[/quote]

    I've no idea of your level of soldering skills Dave and I don't want to be patronising but after all you've been through make sure the soldering is done properly! No real need for [b]a load of solder[/b] more solder won't make the connection any better, enough solder (with the appropriate power solder gun) to do the job is all you need.

    Best of luck, you deserve it!

    :)

  14. I did that same mod to a P bass many moons ago and it sounded great, gave you more range than fitting the traditional mod of a J pup. At least it looks like the routs are tidy, which is a plus. Shame you can't check it out before the sale ends and make him an offer. You can't view it as a potential investment (which I know you don't anyway) so the price would have to be based upon what would it cost you to build up a bass like that from component parts.

  15. [quote name='Beedster' post='20423' date='Jun 19 2007, 09:05 PM']Right behind you Bodie :)
    Acually, I'd like to be Reagan from The Sweeney. That way, rather than get all deep and philosophical like B&D, I can just wade in and beat 10 shades of crap out of the perps!
    Chris[/quote]

    OK I'll be Carter (at least I get to write theme tunes for cr*p TV programmes in years to come).

    Wonder who's gonna offer to be Sapphire and Steel?

  16. [quote name='Beedster' post='20405' date='Jun 19 2007, 08:33 PM']Hey John
    I posted about this yesterday mate (I think in response to one of your posts actually), I'd be more than happy to pay money directly into a Spanish Bank account, wouldn't you :)
    Chris[/quote]

    Soz Chris.
    I had a quick look and couldn't find a reference to it on BC. We really need to reform the old 'squad' back together... can I be Bodie or is it Doyle, damn I can never figure out which one gets the most tottie, either way I drive the Capri when we bust the latest eBay perps!

    :huh:

    John

  17. 61 refin blah blah blah. Payment to Spain (on business), 3 day listing (midweek), 0 rated newbie, description duplicated!

    Anyone smell anything?

    [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vintage-1961-Fender-Jazz-Bass_W0QQitemZ280126202104QQihZ018QQcategoryZ4713QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vintage-1961-Fender-...1QQcmdZViewItem[/url]

  18. I always look at sales/auctions like this and have to ask myself when does it [b]cease[/b] being (in this instance) a Fender '63 Jazz?

    Assuming the bass and neck are genuine as the seller describes them, by the sellers admission the body and neck didn't start on the same instrument, so can it technically be a '63 Jazz? Why not a '63 Precision?

    The recent listing on this forum of a JV Squier highlighted this issue perfectly, it appeared the only part that could be considered JV was the inscribed neck plate!

    This isn't a dig at anyone in particular, I just wondered how much you can change on any instrument before it ceases to be what it was described as when first purchased?

  19. [quote name='BOD2' post='18873' date='Jun 16 2007, 05:50 PM']Do the pedals work OK in the FX loop ?

    Stomp boxes like these are usually intended to be placed between the amp and bass. Have you tried them out in the FX loop to make sure the work ok ?

    I would do this first (using any spare leads to hand) just to make sure everything works ok.

    I don't know that there's a "maximum" cable length for the FX loop. It's generally good practice to keep leads as short as is practical (i.e. as long as you need them to be but not much longer). The FX loop should be a stronger signal than the output of the bass so it should be able to drive longer cable runs.

    Use good quality cables throughout (including patch leads) to get the best out everything. I suggest you contact obbm here about leads, you could also PM him with this specific question.[/quote]

    I've run them in the effects loop fine, which is just as well because they can't be driven in front of the amp!

    I'm in the process of sorting some leads with Dave at the moment I just need to finalise exactly what I want. I hate carrying loads of unneccessay leads (though I do always carry at least 1 spare), so I want to make sure that the leads to and from the pedals will be sufficiently long for any venue but not so long as to have a detriment to the sound.

  20. It might just be me but IMHO play what you think is right. Don't get hung up on every precise passing note or slide. Music is about emotion and you'll lose some emotion if you get bogged down in mimicing every minute detail. I never learned to read but I so wish I had!

  21. It wasn't so much the patch cables (which I was/am going to replace) it was the leads from amp effects send to the input of the pedal and back again. Ideally I want the pedals in front of me, this hasn't been a problem in the past as I've gone bass - pedals - amp input. However I can't do that with the newly acquired TF, the pedals have to go in the effects loop. So what is the max recommended lead length for this task?

  22. In order to really put our guitarist off just as he launches into the umpteenth solo I've added a pedal to my arsenal.

    Question is, is there a preferred order in which they should be placed and is there a maximum length I should be using for the leads to and from the amp effects loop (have to use it in there due to some form of impedance problem when driving the front of my Thunderfunk).

    I presently run my pedals right to left but where does the new edition (bassballs) go, I'm unlikely to be using it in conjunction with the small stone (but then again :) ).

    My bass is Warwick and active if that has any bearing on the lead length (don't see how it can but you never know).

    Cheers guys

  23. When and if you are happy with the cab :huh: I'd be looking at soldering/hard-wiring any internal connections. That may mean bypassing the spring connectors or if unsure getting someone who's a bit handy to look at if they can be safely removed. Obviously this would invalidate your warranty :) so you may need to think about it.

    I still have my hat removed in respect for you as I'm not sure I could have been so understanding!

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