warwickhunt

Meh the Mesa cab was alright... it was the ridiculous H&H 1x15 next to it that could be used to anchor a zeppelin (sorry, 'weather balloon'). The HH was so heavy it induced medical injuries just by looking at it, in at least 3 of the bass players present! Eh @cd_david 🤒

Does yours have the inverted string orientation (it's my 12er)?

Hand gel was available/used after playing the Bass Docs 63 bass!

Through a 'nasty' cab!

Very good point and you are right re. charges, they are cheaper than PP or the bank. Only issue can be some folk think it is a scam and refuse to use the service!

To be fair I wanted to see how 3 of these would sound vertical (6x10 but 8 ft tall), so I took them to a rehearsal tonight where we are testing out PA/sounds for a new band... ye gods it was glorious! I genuinely didn't need PA support but turned right down to be realistic and even on tick over I could be heard everywhere on stage!

A bit of an oddity that 1 cab. It has a 'slightly' different input plate on the back which also happens to have 1/4" as well as Speak-on in/thru. However, maybe I should reposition the logo to save those on the spectrum!

I just bought a 2nd pair of TC 210 cabs (I only gig 2 of them), if I was very tall it'd make the ultimate 8x10.

That is on the assumption that the poster is achieving his present tone from driving the valve power section of his 400w amp quite hard. It would be good to know if you are getting your 'tone' from the pre/power or both. If you are operating your power stage at less than full chat it could be that the Handbox 120 watts might be what you need. I totally appreciate that @Downunderwonder was saying that everyone thinks their amp is loud enough despite there being no means of comparative on stage volumes between different bassists/drummers/bands but I'm sure @wateroftyne will attest that my regular band (which he has kindly depped in, for me) are pretty loud when you are judging on stage volumes and my Handbox coped. I am NOT saying that it was barely ticking over or that I had as much headroom left as a 400w, that would be silly. I ran my Handbox with the output on 100% and the preamp/input gain at or about where 'crunch' is indicated on the lettering/legend of the faceplate. However, it did achieve gig volumes that meant I could project my backline without PA support in small to medium rooms. The Handbox is not the be all and end all of valve amps but for it's size/weight and cost it is pretty bloody good. BTW I have no affiliation with Handbox... in fact I don't even own one of their amps any more, I sold mine.

I doubt that the 5hz difference will be solely down to the driver size and I'd have to ask myself whether you could hear it (added to which I'd generally have a filter taking out everything at that sort of point and below anyway).

I'm going to have a punt that this is a Handbox product!

What @Bill Fitzmaurice was saying is that 'scientifically' (not made up stuff by musicians or amp builders), for an amp to register as twice as loud as another amp you would need to multiply the power output of the lower amp x10 to be twice as loud; a 1000w amp is twice as loud as a 100w amp (all other factors being equal). Just an observation but maybe if you are getting unwanted clipping out of a 400w amp and the output attenuation was less than 50% of it's possible travel/rotation (you said it was on 11 which I assume to mean viewing it as a clockface), then maybe the amp designer needs to rethink things. Unless of course there is a fault with the amp.

What is the amp?

So you had the input/preamp pushed AND you had the master cranked... that pretty much says clipping is going to occur somewhere!

Quick update for those who contributed or might be interested! The tech ordered a new transformer (rated higher than the original), took a while to arrive but it is now fitted. He also added a heat trip and a fuse to hopefully ensure no terminal issues in the future. Interestingly the transformer that he fitted and removed prior to this one, had no visible signs of overheating/damage but tested as having a short. He is going to do an autopsy on it but thinks we were just unlucky and got one that wasn't 100% fit. I've now gigged the amp and had it running for at least 3 hours each time and it didn't even get warm; though you might hope so as it is only powering the valve front end as the power module is class D. Thanks again for all of the input.

Might sound like a daft question but why is the T12-942 not supplied with a power supply? Surely it is a necessity and can't be 'that' expensive?

Yep, I find Fender bass too clumpy/bloated looking/feeling after having owned Sandbergs.

You would think that is the case but tbh reading the 'evidence' / paperwork before the seller's cack, there is nothing that proves anybody refinished anything! The typed authentication simply confirms that the neck has the 'original epoxy coating'... it doesn't say it has been refinished by him (whoever he is). Either way it is a couple thousand dollar bass that is being hyped, to fool some mug!

I can't say which is best but I can tell you that if you initiate one, you can't then claim through the other!

This is a total long shot but does anyone have a Lionel SS fretted neck that they might like to swap for a similar fretless neck? I can swap between 30 - 34" scale fretted basses no probs but my brain/muscle memory can't adapt as quick with fretless 30 - 34" and I don't play enough fretless to adapt full time. I could of course just sell my Lionel fretless and source a fretted but it'll be sod's law that there are none about after I sell my fretless... or at least none as light as mine.

You have a preamp, why not just buy a dedicated power amp? These days watts are cheap enough and you aren't paying for all the unnecessary extras in a dedicated bass amp.

I bought a Musicvox 12 but... it is a monster and I'll not be able to handle it for 1.5 - 2 hours! However, my Bolin can be mocked up to 'look' like a Hamer 12 and run through effects to sound pretty good. I'm still looking for the right 12er.