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That wood looks so good, do you think it could be without a pickguard? The screw holes do not look good on that mahogany body top.

After reading the available material through, I am amazed that the material is downloaded only in so small numbers. Good text, lots of exercises to anyone playing bass.

Any headless is about the length of a g-word. If your background is violins, and your fingers understand very short scales, a fretless Guild Ashbory is small.

I hate these control plates without soldered ground wires. Cheapo. If any of the screws in that plate is loose, anything can happen.

Old music players with their violins, even worse. I try to keep my hands off of any fender based thread. The design is an old hat, electronics cheapo, and the whole concept was neatly described by @BigRedX. Leo did evolve, but there are lots of bassists here who - some of which most likely - believe that a P or a J is the ultimate weapon (no, not that Jaco thing again, because he decided to mod the existing fretboard severely). They were and are the stepstones, because they are so numerous and cheap (from many viewpoints). I have never played a P bass that I would have liked, because of quality (CS was far from its ridiculous price tag), or sound. The pickup looks like the design work was delayed and the result at that point was bolted on (sorry). Cumbersome weight and shape, as ergonomic as a violin. I have tried quite different basses during my playing years. I may not be a very good player, but I know what I want from my instruments. At the moment I play a Vigier Passion II the most, and for five string work I use an MG Genesis (I admit it could be considered as a refined J on steroids). These have super necks, and electronics that can really shape the sound. A P and a flatwound set may be the thing for someone else, not me. Basses have evolved if I haven't. Try a G&L if it has to be Leo's design.

If your need is one session, loan one from a friend. Constant use, go for something good. I've had my Countryman 85 maybe 15 years, and I bought it used. It is maybe +25 years old, but sturdy, uncoloured, and works on a 9 V battery or Phantom.

OK, how about spreading some powder between the top clear lacquer coats? Before the surface is dry?

Search from Amazon that Cherenkov bluish powder and mix it to the paint. Choose Strontium based powder over Zinc and others to get the longest possible glow. I've done tests with 2 - 20 % of luminous powder to paint. I might suggest around 5 - 10 % depending on your needs. Green is the most powerful colour, that's why you need more when using blue or other colours. Addition: I've only used whitish paints, but try it to some tinted colour and tell us about the results.

If you have two bodies, few @Kiwi necks, few pickups, and two electronics, there are already LOTS of choices. Add a painting and hardware scheme, and we can talk about a custom. A SHELL yellow P body (chambered or light swamp ash), an unlined MM neck, a J bridge and a humbucker neck with coil-tap, black hardware, V/B/T/B. Where to find one? Available in 3 months? I could seriously consider one. If @NancyJohnson sources pickup routings, I could source electronics and pickups myself.

For friction? Not touching the body surface?

tce has this three band comp in mono, 1 U rack format, Triple C? Very much like HyperGravity or Spectracomp. A quality Drawmer would be very tempting. Orban had interesting units, although most of them were quite big, and with screw connections.

It's not that expensive to ask some pro photographer to take pictures of you in the gig, or rehearsals, or some place... We have made it three times.

So far no one has mentioned those chinese basses with two necks on different sides of one body, like brand Busuyi: "8-string bass, 5 string fretless."

Guild Pilot bass was available with interchangeable fretboards, Novatone. Magnetic attachment. A short lived idea. talkbass.com/threads/crazy-project-still-in-the-works.482904/