Kamiel

Typical measurements I find for ply wood are 12mm or 8mm, I'm a bit afraid that that's quite a big step down. You think it would be sturdy enough?

Well because of your enthusiasm I've made my own topic in 'build diaries'!

Hello, I'm planning on building my very own custom pedal-board and -case. I'm (loosely) basing my design on this pieces of German pro engineering: https://www.schmidtarray.com/ A friend of mine studies product-design and he was willing to help me make a solid-works design, of which I will include a picture. On the picture the top of the case is rendered as glass just to make the image a bit more clear but it will all be made of wood. The board has a small level plane in front for my loopswitcher, 2 tilted planes for my pedals with nice cable slots, a level plane on the right for my VariPhase expression pedal. The tilted planes will have hinges to make the space beneath them accessible. Outer dimensions will be 674mm x 424mm x 184mm. All wood will be 12mm (hardwood)multiplex. I'm putting quite some plugs in the side of the case: 1 power connection on the left, and on the right I will build my own 'patchbay: 1 bass input, 2 amp outputs, a connection for the channel-switch of my amp, and a XLR out because I'm planning on putting a nice DI inside so I have my own choice of DI when playing live. All these connections will be a plug on the outside soldered to a plug on the inside so I can just use a patch-cable in the belly of my case instead of having to plug my bass directly into a pedal. This way when I'm gigging it's just plugging some cables in the side of the case and rockin' away. Progress right now: - Design is made - Jack-connections etc. are on the way - Extra cables are on the way - I finally found a decent website for 'flight-case-supplies', so I can order ball-corners (is this the right English word for that?), detachable hinges, a lock and some handles. What I still need to decide (and input on this is really appreciated): - Is 12mm (hardwood)multiplex the right choice of wood? - Handles: I'm thinking about one in the front on the lid of the case and two on either side on the bottom of the case. Not really sure though. - I can have the wood cnc'd and have it perfect, or I can do it myself with the help of a friend of mine who is a bit of a woodworker. Pro's for cnc are the quality, pro's for doing it myself/with a friend are the lesser cost and the pleasure/satisfaction of building it myself. It might be a week or two before I decide on the latter matter because I'm having exams and I'll have to wait for a reaction on the pricing of cnc'ing a some plate material... So until then, please give me all the input you can think of greetings from Belgium

I've had an Epiphone Thunderbird and I hated it. Strangely enough I think that I would like a Gibson Thunderbird, or could like it at least. I really don't know why I hated it cause it should be something I could like but it just didn't do it for me... Neck dive, bad finish, some other minor stuff...

It's not yet a pedalboard, but it is a 'solidworks' drawing of the plan's for my new pedalboard build. The clear top is also going to be done in wood but is clear on this image to make the design clear. It has a small level plane in front for my loopswitcher, 2 tilted planes for my pedals with nice cable slots, a level plane on the right for my VariPhase expression pedal. The tilted planes will have hinges to make the space beneath them accessible. I'm putting 6 plugs in the side of the case: 1 power connection, 1 bass input, 2 amp outputs, a connection for the channelswitch of my amp, and a XLR out because I'm planning on putting a nice DI inside so I have my own choice of DI when playing live. Outer dimensions will be 674mm x 424mm x 184mm. Thoughts or tips for building it?

I do the same, my compressor on the very end of the chain and always on. It helps to keep the volume the same when I'm adding stupid amounts of weirdness (for instance Fuzz + Qtron+ + VariPhase) and when I was testing it I always liked it better at the end instead of at the beginning of my chain.

It does say Orange on the headstock, it's a Orange O-bass. https://orangeamps.com/o-bass/ Not as good as my custom bass but real fun stuff, and it didn't cost too much! And it looks amazing in my opinion!

It isn't that strange you haven't seen that one before, because I have the only one in existence. A couple of years ago I designed my own bass and had it made by a dutch guitar-builder (I live in Belgium), called Gun Custom Guitars. (Facebookpage) Alder body, padouk top, maple neck with rosewood fretboard. Beautiful thing and it plays and sounds amazing!

So it isn't only me who believes bassplayers are the only people with proper cable management? If I had a dollar for every time MY extra cable had to serve as a guitar cable because one of our guitarists forgot or broke their flimsy sh*tty cable... I would be able to buy them some decent cables.

I'm planning on building myself a new board. The design will be based loosely on these beautiful pieces of German craftsmanship: https://www.schmidtarray.com/product-page/sa750w-1 Anyone got any tips/tricks that I should keep in mind? What materials should I use, what thickness of wood would be strong enough to support itself, where should I order 9mm plugs for in the side of the case (I live in Belgium) etc... ?

Absolutely not my style of bass but damn is that some amazing craftmanship. I have a padouk top on my own (handmade) bass, it is hands down the most beautiful wood I have ever seen, and with every other angle and light comes a different red, really amazing!

Does the 'Orange O-Bass' count as an orange bass?

It's a loop-master, the most simple switcher you can imagine, making it just perfect in my eyes. Real nice company, they make it how you want, you can even choose the color of the LED's! https://www.loop-master.com/

Playing along with this album has been a great way of improving my bassplaying skills, that's for sure. Did not know this tracklisting, it does have a more understandable flow to it!

Something with cables and knobs

Again, it's not the marking that's the problem, it's just that even with markings you don't have the time (on stage, during a song...) to look at 20+ different knobs to see if they're all in the right place, with or without markings! But talking about markings, I make little stickers with cirkles on and I draw where the knob should be, and those draw on paper stickers come off real clean and easy if you want them to.

Altough 200 EUR is'nt that much for a wireless unit (if it indeed works great) it's still not the kind of money I can or want to spend right now. I will in the future, near or less near, but it isn't something I can do right now. And I do have the picture with my prefered settings for future reference, it's just that I don't want to be taking my phone out on stage while the rest of the band is playing to discover why I have no sound. 😛 I've heard of this method before, just didn't want to propose it in the original post to have a plain field to start with. I will try this, it is propably the cheapest trick so if it works I'll be happy.

Those loknob things look nice, but for (at least) 10 dollars a piece, with my 20+ knob pedalboard, that's not a solution I can or wan't to pay for right now!

Wireless is to expensive right now, and for some reason I'm generally not really a fan of wireless, but that's just a feeling-based thing I guess. I agree that your sound should be fixed before you go on stage, that's not the problem, so taping the knobs down would be a solution, thanks. More ideal would be something that makes the knobs able to move but makes it a lot harder, so it's more permanent in a way that I don't have to tape down my pedalboard every gig.

Hi, I'm sure this is asked before but the only topic I could find was about 10 years old so: The knobs on my pedalboard have been changing DURING GIGS due to a cable running over them when I am moving around the stage. I have little pieces of tape telling me where wich knob should be but when your sound is gone you don't wonna check 20+ knobs on there position. The knobs should stay put. Do you guy's have any good solutions to this problem? grts, Kamiel

My toys together. I know the place is dirty, it's a self-build rehearsal room, what do you expect

I guess I'll learn to live with it. Thanks!

This is the pedal I'm talking about: https://www.jimdunlop.com/product/whe401-7-10137-03155-5.do https://vidweb.aws.marketlive.com/jimdunlop_vid/text/content/pdp/manuals/WHE401.pdf

Hello, I've got the Way Huge Swollen Pickle, and although I love the sound of the pedal, it has one flaw for me: The on/of switch resets every time it loses power. My pedal-board has a loop-switcher, so I want all my pedals to be on all the time. Would any of you guys know of a simple way to change the pedal so it 'memorizes' it's setting: On or Off, after losing power? I'm a total noob on this matter, I've got no clue what so ever in wiring and such, so I really have no clue how to start with things like this. Grts, Kamiel!

It looks like one of those start up companies who know tons about marketing, clear and professional website, straight forward but recognizable look of the product... Let's hope there knowledge about pedals is just as good