basstone

BTW carb cleaner spray is a good way of cleaning off any excess / unwanted contact adhesive

Cab now filled and sanded. Felt glued in and ready for painting.

Fully agree. Use as many clamps as you can to get an even closed joint. I think 3 clamps per join is ideal or use a piece of scrap wood under the clamp to help spread the clamping force. If you have any, G cramps can be used from the speaker, port and horn openings as well.

Yes I also have a smaller piece which may be just as effective in supporting the grille. The full length piece was just self supporting without any glue for a quick trial.

The support across the middle front of the baffle is not part of the cabinet kit, it's a piece left over from the grille support frame. It does add a considerable amount of stability to the expanded steel grille. It's not glued yet as I just wanted to test it out and may do an audio test just to convince myself that I can't hear any difference with / without it before making a final call.

Trial fit for horn, handle and grille looking good. No issues with pilot holes 🙂 . The grille badge is not fixed in place yet. I do like the silver paint on the grille. Should look even better when the cab is painted satin black Tuff cab. Filling and sanding next

Last bit of clamping as the grille frame goes in. Centre cross piece is not glued yet but it does give a lot of extra support to the grille so I will probably keep it.

Just finished fitting the last panel to my cabinet (serial no.003). Here are a few photos of the build so far. As Stevie has noted, a dry build to check for fit is a must before applying any glue. Also use as many clamps as possible to ensure an even join. I found that the panels do distort (very) slightly when clamped so good even pressure along the joins is beneficial, I applied pressure until the glue started to squeeze out of the join evenly along the whole length then stopped. I used 3 clamps per panel join, one at each end and one in the middle. To avoid damage to the panels and to help even out the pressure I used scraps of wood under the clamps. The 600mm clamps which I've seen recommended for this job are only just long enough to reach from top to bottom of a complete cab so I substituted alloy and steel plate scraps I had to spread the clamping load.

If the T-nut is locked completely solid and you can't get to the back to grip it, can you pull the woofer far enough back from the baffle to get a hacksaw blade in from the edge to cut through the bolt shaft? may be easier than drilling the head off?

The AER compact guitar combos are great, very small and light. I know a couple of jazz guitar players who use these all the time now. Maybe worth keeping a lookout for a secondhand oneas new they are well outside budget? The polytone could possibly be sold to help fund it?

OK I understand and agree it will be good to prove the concept. I am also am aware of the amp module aux power limitations and any external power output would need to take that into account. I have a zoom A3 and B1Xon that I plan to use with the cab and both have current draw of about 100mA 9v measured but are quoted as 500mA in the specs.

It's Looking good and a similar concept that I had in mind, even down to the same power amp module. My only proposed addition would be to consider either phantom power on the balanced input or a DC out to power the effect pedal. Thus removing the need for either batteries or an additional power brick.? Any thoughts?

PAT testing. Would anyone would like their amp and kettle lead PAT tested and labelled for £5, if so I will bring my tester to the Bash?

Do you still have these available?

All being well I'll be there - thoroughly enjoyed previous 2 years 🙂

I run a gear repair business called Hurstbatch Services, based near Wells. Recently repaired Adrian's i350 Check out my web site: http://www.hurstbatch.plus.com/ I also do PAT testing

Big thank you to Scrumpy Mike and the rest of the team for putting on another cracking event. Lots of interesting people, gear and fab food!