prowla

Latest funding incentive for the war effort...

It's generally a good idea to push the neck to position anyway and use the rod(s) to hold it in place. (Unless they're dual-action ones.) This chap explains the reasoning. Ric documentation used to say bend it over your knee, but using a bench and clamps is probably a bit more refined. On a Ric, keep both roughly in-step, ie. don't do all on one and have the other loose. Also, on a RIc, press on the fretboard (at the 1st fret), not on the headstock (since you've got the TRC off, you can see there's not a lot of wood there to be pushing against).

Crikey - I was chatting with the bloke on the stand at the recent Bristol Guitar Show and said I didn't understand why they were there, as they're the industry standard and everybody knows Hiscox. He also let me stand on a case!

Ooooh the okey-kokey...

I've had a couple of Carlsbro amps: Singray guitar and the Bass version with the push-button tones.

I bought a Washburn Status (fretted) new when they came out; it was OK, but not great. It went when I bought a real Status Graphite (which was in a totally different league!).

I tend not to buy advance tickets for anything, as you never know what might come up to get in the way of things. When I saw this one, I thought it didn't quite add up.

Hence why you hardly ever see them for sale! 🙂

TBH, I never much connected with Wals. But now I'd have one because they are desirable. Ain't that a thing...

Well, that takes the biscuit!

Ugly things and stupid money!

I think it was Chris Spedding on guitar and maybe Roxy's drummer.

@ash sold a 4001FL on here a few months ago - I forced myself not to bite!

I'd quite like a Gus; I had a go on @Happy Jack's some time ago - I think he said he acquired it from @BigRedX ?

I've only seen two IRL, including mine. Yep - overpriced. I've never liked The Duke - I don't get the point of doing a headless and then putting normal tuners are the arris end.

I can beat that - my ticket was free! (It was some promotion, but I don't remember which company.)

Oh boy - I'm on a roll! This was a weird one - they did a short run of them with bits cut of. I would like another model too.

Aha! - mine needs a spot of doing up. I think it might've been overpainted too.

I've got a 5-er; it's a nice bass, if rather large. It cost me an Epiphone EB0 plus a couple of hundred quid.

I like a bit of Roxy Music and even have a box-set of their albums. I do have some negatives though: I could do without some of the over-affected singing - he's got a great voice which stands up on its own. I just plain do not like Virginia Plain (and we used to play it in a band I was in). I'm not a fan of Jealous Guy either, but I guess it made him a load of money! 🙂 I saw Bryan Ferry at Hammersmith Apollo (I think it was called the Apollo) some years ago; I parked at Westfield, so that puts it after 2008. One or two of his old mates were in the band and it might've been Guy Pratt on bass; there were a couple of dancers on a raised platform at the back. It was a rather good show.

I've sometimes wondered about nicking one out of some of the cars that go past. 🙂

As per notes a 2kW amp is just under twice as loud as a 250W one (all other things being equal).

Power rating is not a measure of how loud a given system will be. As I understand it, a general rule is that 10x Watts = 2x volume (with all other things being equal). So 1000W = twice as loud as 100W (all other things being equal). That's why a 50W amp seems surprisingly loud - I've had a 600W bass amp drowned out by a 50W guitar amp. The "all other things being equal" is a variable, however; as noted speaker efficiency comes into play, as does the number of speakers, amp Class A,B,D, valves vs tubes, and so-on. Now, on to the power rating of speakers and amps. The general standard is to rate in Watts RMS (root mean square), which is a calculation of a stylised continuous average power. Since there's a numbers game where bigger is better, some systems will be rated at peak power instead, which is perhaps 40% higher (1.4x). One or the other may be more relevant in some cases, or both may be worth considering. How to damage a speaker... Now, there are three factors which contribute to a speaker's power handling: How much current the wires which comprise the speakers coils can handle before they fail. How the impedance varies under load and frequency range. Whether the speaker cone hits the end of its travel and stops behaving as it should. If any of the above's limits are exceeded then damage is likely to ensure. However, note that things like distortion (intended or not) change the profile of the frequencies being sent to the speaker (distortion is generally the introduction of higher frequencies), which might add unexpected stresses to the speaker if it is not designed to handle it (eg. it doesn't have a crossover or low-pass filter). So, the Wattage numbers are not an absolute. As a general rule of thumb, if you want to protect your speakers it's a good idea to have speakers rated capable of handling the maximum output of the connected amps and not drive things flat-out. It's also an idea to have the speakers pointing at your listening devices (ie. your ears!) so you can hear them, rather than along the floor inaudibly flapping your flares. But it's all a bit complicated!

I wonder if giving it a picture of a 1-string bass would freak it out?