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Everything posted by prowla
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[quote name='Marc S' timestamp='1485783826' post='3226629'] Now that would be neat! - I'm sure someone could do it [/quote] Something like "Rickenbacker"/"Rickenfaker" alternating. Now, you can get cards & sometimes magazines which have them - I think I might keep an eye out for one and see if one might work for a background. I had been thinking about having a guitar body painted in the dual-tone finish (like some TVRs) - maybe a deep blue and a deeper crimson.
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Is there a reason for the apparent dislike for active basses...
prowla replied to Rocker's topic in Bass Guitars
[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1485797896' post='3226789'] Using a preamp pedal allways on EQ'd to achieve the desired tone (as i've read about a lot of BC users doing) between a bass and a amp isn't different from having a preamp mounted inside the bass, is it? [/quote] The difference is it's not in the bass. Actually, I have a SansAmp which I use to boost passive bass to match the active. I do get the point, and indeed I have said on occasion that the instrument includes the amp and speakers too! However, looking at the component parts, an active bass is one which has onboard active electronics and a passive is one which doesn't. -
So, I strolled into a shop and came out with a custom J...
prowla replied to prowla's topic in Bass Guitars
Oh dear - it has a cousin... (Fretless, EMGs.) -
Straplock buttons come with a longer screw too, so you could combine the matchstick with a longer screw. (I wouldn't be inclined to use a wider screw though.)
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Is there a reason for the apparent dislike for active basses...
prowla replied to Rocker's topic in Bass Guitars
Adding an effect or amp after the output of the guitar does not make the guitar active. By that token, all amplified live music is active and all recorded music is active, since it is processed via a mixer, and reproduced via a replay system with an amplifier. Clearly the term "active" (bass or guitar) refers to the instrument itself and not post-processing. -
[quote name='Bassman Sam' timestamp='1485709954' post='3226005'] Thanks, It is. Really happy with it. The GAS has gone , for now. [/quote] It'll be back!
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I don't suppose you used an iPhone for the picture, did you? I think that they may not put some info into the photos, as I've had it happen of late when I've uploaded photos to tinypic. I've found the answer is to open it on your PC (in my case a Mac mini) and save it as-is; it then uploads fine. Oh, and nice bass, btw.
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Is there a reason for the apparent dislike for active basses...
prowla replied to Rocker's topic in Bass Guitars
It depends how the bass was designed; some are intended to work around the actives, whilst others' distinctive character is because they are passive. -
That looks like a nice bass.
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Wandering grub screw or Poltergeist - Fender 50's P.
prowla replied to Raslee's topic in Bass Guitars
[quote name='bumnote' timestamp='1485684738' post='3225721'] Nail varnish will do the job [/quote] I suppose that's handy to know if you're in a glam-rock band... -
Wandering grub screw or Poltergeist - Fender 50's P.
prowla replied to Raslee's topic in Bass Guitars
Threadlock - that's been on my shopping list for years and I never quite seem to get around to picking some up! -
The "About" page says they're made in UK or Korea; I'm not sure what the hardware & electronics are. So the question is whether these are cheap imports with a markup; one of the tell-tale signs is the over-glossy finish on the body. That said, I have a (very) cheap Chinese bass and it is really quite good (after a bit of setting up and judicious use of a hacksaw!). And it is good to see a bass which isn't just a partsblaster P- or J-.
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[quote name='Dave Vader' timestamp='1485529720' post='3224691'] I sold the fake one from my Hondo on ebay, fully explained as being a fake. It went for 75 quid somehow. I highly recommend it. [/quote] Mine is clear plastic with a laser printed paper stuck on the back; I think I'm going to try and soak it off and print another for it. Incidentally, I've just had an idea: I wonder if it's possible to get holographic logos made; the ones which have one image if you look from one angle and a different one from another.
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I'm in need of a bridge baseplate, if anybody spots one (I am chatting with someone on the FB page).
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This is why I kindof respect Rickenbacker for protecting their brand (or at least trying to). I think that people bodge their Fender copies and stick fake logos on them for their own vanity, but then they sell them on and before long there's someone who thinks it's the real thing.
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I may need a great cheap Jazz bass. MIM 70's classic Jazz.?
prowla replied to bubinga5's topic in Bass Guitars
[quote name='BassManGraham' timestamp='1485618128' post='3225357'] I have a MIM 70s Classic. As I am a sucker for block inlay fret boards and love the 70's P/U position, I. As it comes it is a very decent bass indeed and stands up well in head to head with my USA jazzes. If you can get a clean one for under £500 I would definitely go for it. Personally I find the C neck profile chunkier for my stubby fingers than my USA Standard and Deluxe Jazzes. I have made a few upgrades to it and now it blows away all Standard & Deluxe non modified USA models. Mods include an East J Retro Active Circuit, Badass II Bridge, Tortoise Shell Pickguard, Hipshot Drop D Xtender tuner. It sounds and looks great. However for the cost of the preowned bass and upgrades I could have probably ordered an Elwood! I think an Elwood or Headless Frog is next on my G.A.S list Good hunting [/quote] (I refer you to my "wandered into a shop" thread... :-) ) -
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Re-wire a Coil-Split switch to be a Bass Cut
prowla replied to Greggo's topic in Repairs and Technical
Rickenbackers have a .0047 cap in series with the treble pickup; later models have a Vintage-Modern switch on a push-pull pot (Vintage = cap in series, Modern = bypassed). It's just an SPDT switch. -
People who put Fender logos on non-Fenders like this are being dishonest.
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[quote name='Dan_Q' timestamp='1485525731' post='3224639'] Thanks man, i'll take a look on the facebook group Prowla- that's awesome. very well done [/quote]Thanks!
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Well, it's great that it isn't just a samey-samey P or J ass, but, to paraphrase Arnie, it sure is an ugly mofo!
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I may need a great cheap Jazz bass. MIM 70's classic Jazz.?
prowla replied to bubinga5's topic in Bass Guitars
[quote name='dmccombe7' timestamp='1485510166' post='3224416'] Have you looked at the Vintage Basses. Some guitarists i know have bought their guitars and swear they are better than any Gibson Les Paul they've had for playability and weight. I do remember their basses getting some pretty good reviews and think they do a Jazz type bass. Maybe worth a look. Thomann circa £260 Dave [/quote] That's a good point - some of the Vintage stuff seems quite good; I may pick one up at some point. -
I may need a great cheap Jazz bass. MIM 70's classic Jazz.?
prowla replied to bubinga5's topic in Bass Guitars
[quote name='SH73' timestamp='1485508344' post='3224403'] Hi, Out if interest, where did you get the parts as I am after a p bass body and p bass neck with tuners for a project. [/quote] ebay, and a couple of bits from random shops. I also got someone to make me a headstock logo, which I've not yet put on (it says "Prowla", not "Fender" - don't agree with counterfeits!). I've also built a Strat with a whammy bar from bits; it came in at around the £100-150 mark, with an Iron Gear pickup and decent machines being the most expensive parts. I bought an unfinished body and stained it a lovely dark oak colour, and then a couple of coats of spray lacquer. I'm not sure it's quite fit to gig, but it was fun making it. I got a Squier neck from a shop for a tenner (turns out it's quite a nice neck). The thing about the Fenders and Fender-based guitars is that they are made to be able to swap things and there are plenty of choices. -
It's worth checking whether the string sits in the bridge saddle correctly and also whether the bridge is correctly attached to the guitar body. I had both of those problems with a Badass (in the case of its fit, it was just sitting on top of the grounding wire and so not perfectly flush with the body). Switching from strings which have a narrower/tapered core over the bridge to uniform width ones like Rotosounds could cause the bridge saddle issue.
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So, I have a working bass! At the moment it's got some of the good bits on it, to get it up and running, including Schaller machines, a genuine Ricky treble pickup & surround and a Hipshot bridge; they're really destined for my next project (and are worth more than the instrument!), so I've got to get my copy treble pickup re-wired and find a straight bridge (as the original that came with it looks like a ski-slope!). I got the mono/stereo jack socket conversion done. I also plan to have a play with the electrics; I've got a couple of 330k (vol) pots & 500k (tone), a new Switchcraft switch to make them up. I also plan to put in a vintage/modern push/pull treble tone control (hence the 500k tone pots, as 330k onbes are silly money). I posted some more pics on the FB page. (I'm not happy with the "R" word on the TRC, cos it isn't one!, so I'll be changing that!)
