mybass

[quote name='The Burpster' post='70390' date='Oct 6 2007, 06:09 PM']Urrrm do the basses hum that bad anywhere else? If not you may need a new earth fitting to your house....... No its not a wind up! There should be somewhere an earth spike or strap sunk into the floor, and this MAYBE at fault..... Do you have a mate thats a domestic electrician?[/quote] Yes, my neighbour electrician also explained to me that our very old house probably needed a new earth terminal, as work on a new patio tore an old copper wiring strip out from somewhere. He reckoned this could have been an ancient house earth. Also, check that your place has a new fuse box with multiple trip switches. These new boxes are ( a pain sometimes) very sensitive and can even trip when a light bulb blows. But, they should be safer than the old standard single trip. If you have an earthing problem, GET IT SORTED mate, soon as possible. Maybe the electrical board will test your mains?

Switchcraft also available from WD music in the UK (online site too). They only seem to carry the silver ones but as previously mentioned here, the switchcraft are the best at present. I am talking the barrel stereo ones here. Also, yes to buying the better and authentic brand as the cheaper stuff is really "cheap" and won't last. For a couple of quid more, we don't want to re-solder too often! I have found that jack plugs and sockets can a miniscule difference in circumference sizes between manufacturers. Some jack plugs I used were ever so slightly loose in the barrel, especially some gold plated ones. Try using Neutrik jacks, the REAL ones. They seem to fit the switchcraft barrels very well. [quote name='Jean-Luc Pickguard' post='69121' date='Oct 3 2007, 04:26 PM']In the past I have used cheap & cheerful "no name" sockets from Maplin or my local electronics trade counter. They often need replacing as the metal it too thin. I now only use Switchcraft jacks, which can be bought from here: [url="http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/electrical_jacksstereo.htm"]http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/electri...jacksstereo.htm[/url] if you don't mind ordering from the states. THe switchcrafts are much better quality than the flimsy generic ones and I've never had to replace one.[/quote]

Don't try pushing these pole pieces, as already mentioned, you may well break the internal magnet/copper wiring connection. I fitted a set of Di Marzio's that have adjustable pole pieces that use an allen key. The thing is even then I altered the height on one of the pole pieces too far and defeated the signal until I dropped it down again. Good pickups for the job though. [quote name='Stickman' post='68883' date='Oct 3 2007, 12:32 AM']Does anyone know if it is possible to change the height of the pole pieces on 'USA Vintage J-Bass' pickups (as found on a CIJ '62 reissue Fender Jazz bass)?[/quote]

[quote name='Adee' post='68280' date='Oct 1 2007, 05:46 PM']Deffo look at the Markbass 102HF i've got the 4x10" version and it superb, but big the 2x10" will suit most fo your needs in a fairly light weight package [/quote] This photo looks like the much newer 2x10 with one front port. I'd like to try this model against the taller/older one that I have with twin front ports. I've found these cabs to be much lighter than my old Peavey setup. I shed near 90lbs of "gigging load" from loading, humping and reloading equipment to the car by changing over to Mark Bass. Still got the same speaker setup and amp power too.

[quote name='Viajero' post='68242' date='Oct 1 2007, 04:53 PM']Ok, here's the situation: I've got a LMKII (300W into 8), and I need a lightweight cab to pair it with as a small rig. Needs to be powerful but portable, a cab I can carry in one hand. I was thinking of an MB Traveller 210, but have recently seen favourable reviews of Aguilar GS112(NT) & DB112. If you had 400-odd pounds to play with, what one cab would you get to cover all kinds of small- to medium-sized gigs? Your help would be much appreciated - your collectivev experience is far greater than mine.[/quote] Mark Bass do a variety of cabinets. Have you tried the bigger 2x10 with top and bottom front ports. It moves a bucketful of bass end for a 2x10.

Also...the way a bass built can affect the string tension. I have an old Aria Pro bass thru neck 34" inch scale. The string tension feels tighter than on other basses using the same strings and gauge as on another bass. The thru neck on the Aria is "set " at an angle to the body surface, basically it tilts back from the body similar to Gibson guitars with their set and glued in necks. This type of manufacture to me, gives more tension on the strings so that two basses (with the same string type/gauges) can have a different string tension. [quote name='mybass' post='66700' date='Sep 28 2007, 01:16 AM']For some reason inherent in the type of steel/nickel used in the string, same gauges of different strings can feel and pull differently. Remebmer, that low B is prone to elasticity, it will want to resonate/vibrate even when you aren't playing it so the thicker gauge strings should act and sound better. You may now find yourself looking at a different string manufacturer to help with this problem. I think Picato are a reasonably priced string but you may have to "up" your price now. That low B is a bit of a doozy to control.[/quote]

Thanks for the info Stefano. I have emailed Basslines. They had ETS in their listings but didn't seem to have avail. for the headless stuff. We'll see. [quote name='stenobass' post='66799' date='Sep 28 2007, 11:26 AM']For ETS hardware you can try the German link [b]www.bassline-bass.de[/b] and go to their online shop. I am currently looking at the same type of bridge for a project. They can supply within 2 weeks. Cheers, Stefano[/quote]

Ok Gizmo, thaks for getting back to me anyway, much appreciated. [quote name='Gizmo' post='64879' date='Sep 24 2007, 05:20 PM']Sorry Mybass Michael beat you to this unit about a month or so back I've had a quick poke around my hdd and i cant find any pic's of it i know snapped a few off but i cant locate them(been through a OS reinstall snice then) fire Michael a pm and see if he can grab you a few im not sure if he has made use of the unit on a build yet Soz Gizmo[/quote]

For some reason inherent in the type of steel/nickel used in the string, same gauges of different strings can feel and pull differently. Remebmer, that low B is prone to elasticity, it will want to resonate/vibrate even when you aren't playing it so the thicker gauge strings should act and sound better. You may now find yourself looking at a different string manufacturer to help with this problem. I think Picato are a reasonably priced string but you may have to "up" your price now. That low B is a bit of a doozy to control. [quote name='mytilini' post='66677' date='Sep 27 2007, 11:27 PM'][font="Arial"][/font][size="2"][/size] Evening everyone. I'm new to Basschat, but would really like some help on a 5-string I've just bought. I've been a 4-string player for too long and needed to get a 5-string for my band's new songs. So, bought a Bruce Wei Custom Shop mother-of-pearl inlaid active jobby; twin soap-bar pick-ups, active, luthier-made bone nut, 35-inch scale, through-body string-fitting bridge, etc. Thought I'd stick to my standard Picato 735LM nickel roundwound strings in .040", .060", .075", .095" guages and add either a .115" or .120" for the bottom-B. Picato suggested the .120". I tried both, agreed that the .120" is better. My luthier did the set-up correctly, but I'm REALLY disappointed with how the low-B has turned out. It's indistinct, floppy, not a "solid" tension and actually makes trying to pick-out the pitch of the lowest five frets' notes VERY difficult. Any help or ideas please? Should I use heavier guage strings all round? I've been used to 34-inch scale fretted & fretless basses with those guages from the one manufacturer - I'd hate to have to change the guage of the top 4 strings, but how do I increase the tension and definition of the bottom string....? Does it matter if I have to go to, say, a .140" or above...? I humbly await your constructive suggestions - please...! [/quote]

I agree with "Buzz" about contacting WD Music. They are helpful and their posting is speedy. As far as a concentric pot, that can mean there is a battery run system in there so if thats the case, Status basses may also be able to help. I think on the following address........ www.status-graphite.com [quote name='lonestar' post='64551' date='Sep 23 2007, 11:09 PM']I have just acquired a late model 1990's one of these with a dodgy treble/bass pot. It's a stacked concentric one and I've tried the usual jet air followed by switch cleaner thing but I think it needs replacing. Anyone know the correct type and where I can source one? I might as well replace the mid/mid sweep one too I guess. Peavey UK didn't want to know and were no help at all as the bass is "obsolete". Any other info on these basses also greatly appreciated. I've not seen one before but its otherwise really nice.[/quote]

Must be serious if they won't even allow chocolate on the list! Even a watch!! Jeez........Basically then, give us your money and expect the worst and hope for the best. [quote name='Sugden' post='4720' date='May 22 2007, 10:01 PM']Hi I know a number of people on here used to, and maybe still do send their basses with parcel2go and I would advise against it after reading the uninsurable list. Guitars (all) "The following items (or any item similar in description or content) can only be carried on an uninsured basis on any service. Any person sending such an item does so at their own risk: Added 1/1/2007:" [url="http://www.parcel2go.com/shipping-items.aspx#unins"]http://www.parcel2go.com/shipping-items.aspx#unins[/url] Just thought I would post it up. I normaly send my basses with them but have had to go with UPS this time due to not been able to send the bass insured with parcel2go. Dont want anyone missing that bit of info loosing their bass or it getting damaged in the post and have nothing to show for it for a broken or lost bass [/quote]

Finally got theough to Woodtronics. They informed me that the factory was undergoing new building works/upgrade and that was the reason for no orders coming through. They are looking at an order and costs as I type this. Thanks. [quote name='RIM Basses' post='25493' date='Jul 1 2007, 07:53 AM']Hi Mybass, You could try ordering thru Enrico at www.woodandtronics.com in italy, other wise maybe check out ABM or Status. My last order with ETS took a while to get to me. Cheers, Robbie.[/quote]

My apologies Gizmo for not replying to you (or did I!!?). I have been chasing up ETS but could you tell me or send a photo of the actual unit you have (had?).? many thanks. [quote name='Gizmo' post='29325' date='Jul 9 2007, 08:36 PM']Hi Mybass I have a 4 string headless bridge/tunner unit that i brought for a project thats no longer going to be used as i recall spacing is 19mm (i'll check when i visit my workshop next) it does'nt have a string retainer but you could team it up with one from status your's for £25 (that inc postage) if its of any use to you let me know Cheers steve[/quote]

Generally, the bridge saddles when set right, will form a slightly angled line across ways. Your string may be needing a slight movement. Play it at the 12th fret and then play it open, any difference? Try playing the 12th fret harmonic and then the string too. Moving the saddle should bring the tuning into correct play. Sometimes the string itself may be the problem so make sure you have the good stuff on there! [quote name='mindpop' post='53693' date='Sep 1 2007, 02:46 AM']I have a problem....I have a new 6 string bass that on the d string the higher I play up the neck the sharper it goes out of tune.. This does not happen on any other string. Does this sound like an intonation problem? Anyone out there ever experience this??? Thanks[/quote]

90% of problems with signal loss etc seems to always be about connections or leads. Maybe your actual guitar lead is a bit faulty? With guitars/basses that have batteries in them, the jack socket is a "stereo" socket which will have 3 tags on it. So, you will have the earth wire to one tag, the actual signal or "hot" wire to another tag and then the wire from the battery itself to the third tag. (The battery also has a wire that will be wired to earth inside the bass, probably onto the back of a potentiometer). When you plug your jack lead into your bass, the battery is then "connected" or activated so that your onboard active pickups or pre-amp will be powered up. This also means that when the jack lead isn't plugged in, the battery will not be running down. On a simple system with no battery, there is just the plain jack socket with 2 connections, one is the earth wire out and the other the "live" signal from the pickups. Beware, solder these the wrong way and expect trouble! If you aren't sure ever about doing that, take it to a decent repairer. [quote name='lwtait' post='57191' date='Sep 7 2007, 08:39 PM']Sorted... somehow... I didn't do anything (as far as I know) but its not doing it any more! I'll tell you if it starts happening again.[/quote]

I believe the wax that Warwick use and sell, contains Carnuba wax. Not all waxes for polishing contain this, so I've been told in shops. Someone mentioned not to use silicon wax. I heard that it isn't that good a wax to use too, something to do with build up of residual muck. Your bass has already been oiled at the factory, so waxing should be the only necessary job now, unless you strip the body back to bare wood and start again. When I oil my (fretless) macassar ebony fingerboards, I use "Bore Oil". This was used by my double bass repairer on fingerboards. It is used for the bores on woodwind instruments, stops all that spittle from rotting the insides I guess. It is supplied in small quantities for a few pounds, made by Yamaha and obtainable or to be ordered in many music shops. When applying it, dab some onto a piece of cloth and rub that into the fingerboard. DON'T pour it onto the fingerboard direct. That goes for any oil. If you are going to oil the fingerboard, use sparingly, it can and will seep under the frets and maybe just maybe, loosen them. I can relate a story where an over zealous roadie kept disregarding both my protests and our guitarists' about the method and use of lemon oil "cleaner" he insisted on using. Instead of giving the guitars a good wipe down, he kept using this lemon oil "cleaner". This resulted by the third gig with my right hand being soaked in excess lemon oil seeping out of the bridge and strings. Worse still, the guitarist had a graphite nut on his lovely strat. The oil literally softened the nut and the strings had sunk into the graphite itself. The guitarist had a new nut put on. There was so much oil though that had soaked into the wood that this new nut also softened up. The lesson is to be sparing with any oils on and around the fingerboard area. [quote name='Pikefloyd' post='64402' date='Sep 23 2007, 04:03 PM']I've been using lemon oil to clean the neck (ovangkol) and fretboard (wenge) of my Warwick. The body is swamp ash, and has a coloured oil finish. Does anyone think there may be problems using the lemon oil on the body too, or is there some other cleaner that might be better suited with the type of finish I have? Any help much appreciated[/quote]

You sure it is the actual mechanics of the machine head? Also, if the nut is a bit tight on the string it may force the string to resist pulling through the nut slot, so putting a little more tension on the machine head. Sometimes a bit of pencil led which is graphite, "pencilled" into the nut slot by sharpening to a point an ordinary pencil, will help to provide a smoother passage for the string over/through the nut slot. [quote name='Maark' post='64559' date='Sep 23 2007, 11:38 PM']So... I go to tune my big pile of bass tonight. And as I tune the A string, anytime I move the machine head there's like a little mechanical squeaking sound, like nng-nng-nng as if it's protesting. What can I do? I've only owned this bass 3 weeks now.[/quote]

Thankyou very much Silverfoxnik. I must admit I do like to doodle with a bit of wood. To explain..I am a pro player, having spent the last 25 years on fretless bass. This led me to conclude that getting the "right" fretless action was down to doing it for myself. This led to a serious hobby of wood to basses. I have been playing and recording with my own basses for 10+ years. I make them usually from english ash bodies, sometimes swamp ash, ( not so punchy), maple neck and maccassar ebony fingerboard. Schaller hardware usually used for tuners and 3D bridge. I usually put Seymour Duncan actives on. I will often "play" the bass in myself, sometimes on gigs, adjusting stuff as I go along. This way I know it should be set up to a good optimum playing feel. I should try and post a pic soon as I have one new one almost finished and another awaiting wood for the neck.

AAARRRRRGGGGGHHH don't tell me if it does reappear! I'm sure ( am I?) that yon chappie really was going to use it. GULP. [quote name='MacDaddy' post='62639' date='Sep 19 2007, 12:53 PM']but don't we all want a good deal on Ebay? If it was me that bought that, I'd be made up, but if I was selling it I be gutted! What's the betting that will be on sale soon with a reserve? [/quote]

[quote name='Machines' post='62458' date='Sep 19 2007, 07:38 AM'][url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=150160666083&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=005"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...A:IT&ih=005[/url] This went for a ridiculous price - can't believe there was no reserve on it .[/quote] My first Ebay foray a while back was selling an EBS pre-amp. I put a reserve on it but as it wasn't picking up too many bids, Ebay "advised" me to consider no reserve. I followed that advice at the time. The result was a very cheap pre-amp sale way below its real worth. AAARRRGGGHHH. I was happy for the chappie who bought it but it would have been more bold if I had sold at what I wanted! Be careful out there.

[quote name='jimmybass04' post='61201' date='Sep 16 2007, 03:25 PM']hi there, im looking for an accoustic bass, i v tried the tanglewood and it feels really good,i need something that sounds loud unplugged, wondering if anyone has any info on any other ones they recommend. any info appreciated. jimmy[/quote] I've been getting along pretty well with my Washburn AB20 with the slatted soundhole for many years now. The onboard EQ on acoustic basses maybe the make or break with any them. Cheaper basses may be ok'ish in a room but on stage, the better bass will prove its worth. The Takamine is a choice acoustic. Maybe the Fender (Victor Bailey?) could be a good bet.