Cuzzie

There is a video out there of him using it

It sounds minty pops

3 minutes ago, SteveXFR said:

The theory should work but the volume doesn't quite fade out at minimum, it gets to a point then cuts out completely and that point is pretty loud with the gain cranked. 

I get you - what amp is it?

People who have it or have used it may be able to help

Hmmmmm - you shouldn’t need a load box like a guitarist to get break up then - if you like the pre amp being pushed you can dime the gain, but have your master very low, or a boost leading into the preamp and keep the vol low

I take it you are using a tube amp BTW

Two Notes do a load box which is very good - there may be other manufacturers.

32 minutes ago, EBS_freak said:

Ditto.

in my defence, it seems that you deliberately go out your way to find my posts and throw the opposite opinion or try and undermine what I say? For what purpose?

My post is on topic. I stated that all amps are essentially genre indeterminate. You even quoted me where I stated amps are amps. I stated that amps are marketed in a manner to make them fit with a genre. I then even gave evidence which supported that. Likewise Orange are marketed as a more rocky amp. It makes sense, they were born out of an era of British rock n roll. There’s no reason why they couldn’t be used in pop and jazz. I am sure they have been. But they certainly aren’t marketed that way.

I am not likely to own a DG amp. I don’t understand why you seem to have some grievance with me bringing them up.  I’m unlikely to own another amp again - as you know I am on inears and PA based setup - but I don’t see why I can’t comment on equipment, especially when it’s supported with reasoned supporting evidence.

Out of everything you chose to post in response, you decided to quote me, out of context, to fit some weird narrative you are choosing to pursue. It’s puerile. Give it a rest.

And let’s not forget that you were the one that’s attempted to slide into my DMs to try and ascertain my location, my level of education and university alma mater. That’s just plain weird. Please, take a look at your behaviour before you start picking on an individuals contribution to the forum.

Oh and if it makes you feel better, please free to add the obligatory laughing “like” response.

 

I thought the response on marketing was actually spot on as well as amps not being genre specific.

To me that’s a real shame for DG products, they are more versatile than for what they are marketed for, but it’s the direction they want to take

15 minutes ago, P-Belly Evans said:

😂😂

The thickness of those bad boys, you may as well use the corner of a tile 😂😂😂. I will stick to my .73 nylon Dunlops. What's good for Mr Vega.......... 

what these ones? They do a range 😉

Just think how good he could be if he used Dava picks like us 

2 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

With the same quality of woods (Alder) neck (Maple) and fretboard as the HB? Tuners included?

Can’t say I have ever looked to compare HB wood to GB wood but there will be info out there, certainly GB seems OK

Tuners you get get from £30 for 5 all in to £300.

Have a look and decide what you fancy - it’s just an option

Although with modding yourself,  the more expensive the bass the more careful you are perversely as you defo do not want to roger it.

It all counts as Patina

Give guitarbuild.co.uk a nudge - you can get a body and neck with routing of choice for a little over the price of the HB.

Finish how you want, but rubbing in Tru Oil doesn’t need a Luthier and can be done easily at home, that an a Phillips screw driver you can piece it together.

Solderingiron is pittance, but a quick solder job if someone else had to do it and do the rest yourself really keeps the cost down

BT7

BT7 defo for Cali I I would presume Cali II as well

36 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

I think there's a broader message in your first point Mark which is modding (as opposed to refi'ing) a bass very rarely increases the value. Maybe some parallels with house refurb work in that a lick of paint is known to give you max bang for your buck in terms of value-add.

Point here is if you start with a £300 HB chassis (delivered to your door) and need to spend £350 on electronics (Black labels plus Glock 3 band preamp) to get a P/MM that you really like - you've forked out £650 on a new bass.

Used VM5 Bergs seem to be going for north of £1k these days (the ones in the FS are on at £1,200 after being reduced). If you want to swap out the pups e.g. to put some Black labels in to get a (used) bass, which hopefully you'd still really like, but now costing £1,200+

If you're just in it to make money then get yourself a Wal and put it away in a hard case in a humidity controlled room. (I personally wouldn't recommend Bitcoin 'coz (a) it's a Ponzi scheme and (b) I don't have a spare $1.5 billion knocking around that I wouldn't notice if it went missing...)

If you want value for money on a bass you're going to play, then @TheLowDown has asked exactly the right question IMO. Interestingly, @Doddy in this case I wouldn't feel I would be settling for less, because I would have got the bass I was after for half the price; and we're into USA Fender vs MIM Fender and Yamaha BB2034/5  vs BB1024/5 discussion territory.

What is going to be the deal breaker for me is if the HB is much above 10 lbs, which it could well be. A real shame.

Except that if you fork out £650 for a new Modded HB bass if you want to sell it off it will go for £200-£250. Granted if you sell off the electronics and restore it back to original you may get slightly more - it also depends on whether you need someone else to do the electronics work.

Get a used berg for £1-1.2k - your up to £350 spent on modding (you may not change the pre amp) would be offset with up to at least £150 probably back selling off the original pick ups and whatever.

If you sell it off, it will still fetch about £1-1.2k

Higher capital outlay at the start - but not the fall off.

If you build it and never sell - HB makes the most sense to buy and pimp as less overall outlay

3 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

At ~£250 for teh HB and £1250 for the Sandberg, you can afford to give the HB away if you can afford the instant depreciation on buying the Sandberg.

Everyone has a price point and a depreciation rate they can afford

I think the point someone made earlier was in reference to getting the HB and pimping it, whereas a judicious second hand buy of a sandberg narrows that gap, do you do your own electronics and soldering etc

16 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

Haha - not sure about that! If you're swapping out the electronics on both the Berg and the HB e.g. to get set of Black Labels the HB is going to win every time.

Biggest loss on a bass I've ever suffered was on a...Sandberg. And if the Berg route was such good option then, not sure why folk would be doing the following?

Clearly madness 😁

Did you buy the Sandberg new?

If so - of course it will make the biggest loss - it’s the same across the board except for if you bought maybe your 1960’s P bass new in the 60s and sold now.

Whats the price differential between a new NNE2 and what you paid for yours?

Swapping electronics cost can always be offset by selling the others, although you may struggle to sell HB ones as opposed to whatever is in the Sandberg.

2 minutes ago, Supernaut said:

Does the Radial ProDI or Radal JDI count? Only DI boxes I seem to use these days! 

Yes

JDI is mint and the Jensen transformer gives a nice vibe to the sound

11 minutes ago, krispn said:

A simple break down of the potential cost.

Used Sandberg approx £850

HB £350 approx

-preamp and MM pick up upgrade -£250 approx for 

-tuners £120

fitting and set up £150 approx or more at London prices. 

Buy a used sandberg and change out the pre or pick ups if it’s not 100%. Retain the originals and if you decide to sell it return to stock and sell or keep the upgrades.

Upgrading the hb with your track record on moving basses will only result in a loss or you’ll decide to upgrade to a Sandberg in about three months after buying the HB  😀

 

C’mon that’s too sensible - where is the fun in that?

Next you’ll be saying 2 band EQ’s are ok

madness

Good man

the world of pick welcomes you!

Cloth vs non cloth wire

quality of wire

Types of solder

Ring terminal vs normal grounding

normal self tapping wood screws will do 

Not just tight,it has groove,that is the most important part

20 minutes ago, Ricky Rioli said:

More Dave Ellefson, the 70 seconds from 1'20" to 2'30" 🔥

 

Lacking accuracy...........

What a player he is

Furniture wood, ship building wood, some woods are better for chopping boards due to lack of porosity. Very porous wood is terrible for it,unless filled and properly treated as it will lead to bacteria ingress and proliferation. Cedar, some people Minoan about its softer nature and marks on their precious basses, but ships are built with it, so its pretty hardy

I neither coined the term or grouped them - it covers a vast array of woods.If it can make a table and a bass it’s a very useful wood indeed 

Just now, Maude said:

I don't consider any tonewood. It's either wood suitable for building a bass, or it isn't. 

A post of mine further back in this thread explains that. 

I've been trying to get someone to tell me a wood that is structurally suitable for bass building but isn't used due to its poor tone. If there isn't one then surely it's just wood suitable for a bass or not. 

Which makes it a tonewood then does it not?

17 minutes ago, Maude said:

Very, very little is my opinion, hence why I've said the tonewood debate is nonsense. 

I'll happily believe that the body wood can have a  slight affect on string vibration as it's the wood that holds either end of the string apart. If the wood is denser I reckon it will have less damping effect on the string vibrations. But I don't believe that any wood used for guitar construction would have a detrimental effect on how it sounds. The changes are so minimal as to be negated by many other factors. 

If 'tonewood' was a thing, as opposed to just plain old wood for guitar building, then would a bass built from the best tonewood available with a poor pickup sound better than a plywood bass with a very good pickup? I'd say no chance. 

In theory air temperature and density will have an affect on string vibration, just as wood type will, but it's so negligible as to not be worth mentioning, much like what wood the body is made from. 

Tonewood covers a vast spectrum - of interest what do you consider tonewood and what do you consider plain old wood?