That's a neat idea - like the simplicity. Only negative I can think of is that, assuming they just clip over the button on the outside of the strap, they won't stop a heavy bass from stretching the hole in the strap.
+1!! Seems that you can buy the one-piece pins separately as you could with the old design. This means that, if you are swapping one strap between instruments - you only have to buy one complete set plus extra pins. I use and like the original Schallers but this is definitely an improvement in several respects.
Much to my own surprise, never owned one of these despite being a short-scale player. Doubly strange as I played one for a year or so a few years back and loved it. The singer/rhythm guitarist whose band it was found it in a skip and, being an accomplished wood-worker, was able to restore it. He insisted that I played it as he reckoned it was the nicest-sounding bass he'd ever heard. Couldn't really argue as it was perfect for what the band doing.
I have a feeling that the \\ to the bridge option would leave insufficient pearloid 'frame' bridge-side of the pickup - especially at the top corner. (Sorry readers, all this is getting a bit nerdy but, as the saying goes, "the devil is in the detail" ๐)
I'm thinking along those lines too. The way I see it, the long side of the cut-out in the pearloid plate needs to be a straight line that's parallel either with the bridge or with the slanted bridge pick-up. I guess the best thing would be to try the latter first. If that doesn't look right then there's still the option of cutting more plate away to get the former.
I know it's a bit academic as everything will be black but nice that the curves of the plate still work with the new body outline - even better than the original actually. Seeing your pic, if the original pearloid plate had matched the new bridge I'd have been tempted to re-use it and go for a bit of retro bling ๐
Agree with all of the above! Whenever possible I re-use the screw from the original button. If I have to use the screw supplied with the Schallers (usually because the head of the original is too big) and the hole in the bass is oversize, I plug it with a large (kebab-style) cocktail stick. Just dip the sharp end into wood glue, push firmly into hole, trim overhang off when set, and re-drill smaller hole.
These are truly excellent amps and this one looks, sounds and operates just as good as when I bought it new earlier this year. Used as back-up so not many hours on the clock. Can be collected from Taunton (only 10 min's away from J25 on the M5) or buyer arranges/pays for courier. Can post pic's if required but both amp and case really are unmarked and clean as a whistle.
I suspect it's got something to do with the 'rhythm' / 'groove' you get into when you're working against the clock 5 days a week - a bit like bass-playing come to think of it.
Just playing catch-up after a long weekend on the I-o-W to catch Cream of Clapton concert (Paul Ruck was amazing, house band excellent, and bass player so good that I seriously thought about cancelling this build and throwing myself off Yarmouth pier). Anyway, I'm better now - and considerably cheered up by Andy's progress with Rascal Lyte Mkll โบ๏ธ
"... took about 40 minutes overall ..."
Ah, the joys of doing a job for which you have all the necessary knowledge, tools and experience. If I'd done this you'd be talking 40 hours - mostly spent thinking and plucking up courage - and it would STILL be wrong ๐
I think Linus27 makes a good point. Haven't used any of the specific heads listed in the survey. My 'other options' vote is for the Mesa Subway 800+ based on my experience of gigging two Two10S cabs with that head in a classic rock covers band. If I'm using the Mesa with a single Two10S I just switch the impedance to 12ohms.
Good to know that the neck has been awarded the Andyjr seal of approval. I know it's early days but I'm really liking the way things are shaping up ๐ Did you have to alter the neck pocket?