Wonky2

Im happy with the neck joint now snd the hole i drilled through fret board throught to heel where the bolt runs has been filled and sanded back to a invisible match, well at least when the fret board it refinushed with the matt black enamel paint i have for it.... Should be a good undetectable repair if i can get the finush right..... Tonight i have started with the new bridge. I ordered an adjustable maple bridge which seems to be good quality, a nice peice of maple too. But man alive is shaping this going to take some time ! I have masking taped a sheet of sand paper to the deck and slowly sliwing working the bridge back and forth i am begining to shape the feet. I understand the fit has to be immaculate but its tricky to see against the sand paper so constant checks are a must, but its a slow process and difficult to hold the (loose) adjustable feet square in the bridge as it moves back and forth.... I may mark the sheet with lines and remove the feet to do them individual in order to get a better square hold on them however i am mind full that tgey get and equal amount removed...... This will take some time.... I have strapped the bass to a large cardboard box for a stable work surface, it works quite well with rags under the strap to avoid any rubbing...... Once the feet are shaped i will move on to reducing the hight and begin to shape the radius. I have a template as i understand the radius is not symmetrical/ uniform...... Im nervous about the radius and part of me thinks ..... Go see a luthier.... The other part thinks "its only wood " hahaha.... I figure if i get it wrong i can always go see a luthier with a 2nd new bridge... At least this way i will have tried and whats more enjoyed the experience....!

Ok, heres a pic of the repair so far... Ive stripped back the finish so that my re-finish is even .... I want to keep the back of the neck finish free so may well wax or oil ? Dont lnow whats best really ? Im curious as to how the finish on the neck heel and head stock is dealt with in the transition between the hard glossy varnish (?) coat and the bare or oiled neck ? Is it just a curve ? Im sure what ever i do here will be not as good as i want it to be ! Hahaha

The repair is mid way through I have taken my time rather than jumping right in.... I cleaned up the two faces, being as minimal as possible in order to retain the majority of original wood removing very little.... If anything, just the slpinters. I worked at this untill i was sure the joint closed fully and was a snug fit. I have chosen to use a length of M8 stud with a washer and lock nut at both ends. I started by using an auger bit large enough (around 15mm) to allow a socket in to tighten the nuts and drilled out to a depth wihich allows the nuts to be hidden and filled over, then used an 8mm auger to drill the full way through. Big holes drilled first followed by the smaller hole, this allows you to keep a centre for the drill.... If you do it the other way around you will have drilled out your centre for the larger auger and the drill bit will flap around leaving an untidy cored hole..... Ive allowed for a decent deapth of filler over the too of the nuts to afford the filler itself some strength and mass. This was done by applying the filler, packing tightly, 5mm at a time to ensure even drying and adherance) I applied lock tight to the thread of the stud and gorrilla epoxy to one face of the timber. The joint has closed up well and both nuts are sunk well enough to allow a decent plug of timber or filler..... I Have sanded the finish off the back of the neck to remove a few tiny dinks and make nice and smooth and followed the sanding down the heel to allow an even refinish.....various grades of sand paper and wire wool (oooo grade) ,wetting the wood between each sanding brings out the grain. Doing this and rubbing back down will help when a finishing oil is added and ensures the grain stays putt to provide a smooth finish/ feel. The are are a few dinks here and there and some cosmetic damage to the finish on the body top under the neck.... I thought long and hard about how to best repair or try to hide the repair somehow, but given the nature if the repair, the cost of the bass and the elements of damage i have to try to hide, i have chosen to try a bit of road ware type look and i have to say i am rather pleased with the results. On the whole, the original glossy finish remains, but i have taken a bit of wet/dry and oooo grade steel wool to the bindings and reduced the finish in places mostly still there but dulled and in some places bare... It looks well i think and helps make the dmage look a little more natural rather than the results you would expect from the reality of a neck and a body rattling round a box in a courriers transit van for days..ware looks better than damage and unless done extremely well wear also looks better than a poor attempt at a cosmetic repair....touch ups always looks shabby ..... I guess many will at this point be vomitting at the thought of what i have done, steel studs, fake road ware, but i think it looks far better now looking worn than it did when it looked damaged....and the repair is as strong as possible. I once bought a fender jazz which had some horrific wounds... I took it in the garage and after a short while it came out looking pretty much like one of fenders road worn or light relic jobs, which again looked far better than damage. Whats more, that bass was fantastic to play as i guess having been so intimate with it i didnt mind treating it very closley rather than being careful all the time.... Lounging round with your favourite bass is great and far far better than the ones that just stay in the case and come out once youve wrapped your belt buckle in bubble wrap ...... (Sorry, im rambling....) Waiting for expoxy to go off properly before i seal/ plug or fill the two 15mm holes in order to allow any moisture out.... Once i have refilled the holes and sanded back to original shape i have bought some mat black enamel to refinish the fret board. I may oil the back of the neck or stain back to match original colour... When all done, i have the new bridge to trim down and shape which again, im not going to rush.... Its gone well so far and i think despite how it sounds, the results look well. I just hope the expoxy bonds well and the repair lasts well. Cant wait to get it strung up and hear it.....

I stand by my original excuse, er .. I mean explaination... It was little wonky i swear ! This thread, dispite what some may think, has brought me much joy and i read each dig with a grin from ear to ear as hand slaps face and head starts to shake hahahah My own stupidity started it, but a comunal sense of sadistic fun pokery led us here.....

Sorry , i know that sounds really hard.... Its not intended that way

You snooze, you loose is the expression.... If your really keen but cant make a fairly immediate arrangment to go, then offer a deposit...? Two Days of negotiating must have meant you wernt offering what he was asking? Maybe someone else was ? I know its harsh, and feel,your pain... But experience tells me that two day deal negotiations usually mean some kind of compromise on either party, but typically the seller... I dont know the facts granted, but unless you offered him the cash asking price, or secured a deal with a deposit..... Well, you havent at that point bought anything and in his eyes its most certainly still for sale. There will be others... Keep looking

Thanks guys, great info here.... Impedance isnt something ive ever had to worry about, with electric bass simplicity of plug and play .... Ibdont really understand, the mark bass lil mark 3 has a balanced input xlr socket, but i dont know what the impeadance requirements are or how to match a pickup / hpf or preamp to suit it ? Any pointers are welcome Ajustable bridge has arrived plenty to do

Can i, or dare i ask what may be a filthy question....... Does any one put any referance marker on the side of their neck ? Fret markers if you like like a lined fretless ? I would restrain from having anything on the finger board but wondered if any one has dot marked for ref points on side of fboard ? Newbie question fua par ?

Seen a pup (cant recal name) that was pretty much like the sm58 approach mentioned above.... It was a condensor mic enclised in a cricket ball sized bit of mic head foam which slotted into under arch of bridge...... I suppose for begining with new sound a pup which serves minimal feed back would be helpful..... When you say avoid straight line from cab to bass , do you just mean face cab off to say 45' angle or put it on oposite side of drummer ?!?

Hey guys Im still in process of my neck repair and wating on some parts such as adjustable bridge and strings (thanks keving).... I Got to thinking about playing with the band in the near future and in turn, amplification ..... I read a whole load of posts on here and the net in general but im a bit stuck for a starting position as so many options seems to be specific to certain approaches in sound and tecnique....? Id like a good pick up which will i guess mistly piz but id like to try the bow of course at some point.... Not suggesting i could dive straight in, but id sure like to "explore".... I dont know whether to look for a bridge mounted single or double pad pick up , anynsuggestions are welcomed in the £50-£100 price bracket.... Next is amplification...... Im clueless here.... Ive heard people refer to a "doubler" before? Whats that then ? Is it a twin channel amp for using two pickups ? I have a mark bass little mark 3 head with a 2x10 markbass traveller cab, is this suitable for double bass ? Is the output of the pickuos passive and ok to use straight into amp like my fender ? Or will it do damage ? The spec for the little mark 3 says it has : "BALANCED INPUT (XLR) impedance 22 Khom, max. voltage 25 vpp " So any pick up,reccomendations compatable with this would be great ? Is there a need for a preamp ? Or can my amp cope well enough with input gain....? 25 plus years of playing bass, now im like a fish out of water..... Hahaha clueless Please excuse the daft questions, all help is warmly recieved with thanks Wonky

Just happened upon an old clip i saw a while ago with pino playing and noticed a scribbling on his bass ? Probably been asked/ answered a million times on here , but can any one could enlighten me as to what it says and means.... Nothing more than curiosity really, it just caught my eye and beckoned me to look closer Right at start of clip.... Near bridge / g string.... ???

Ya wouldnt lerrit lie would ya ?

I have a stock answer for these situations ..... Usually a 3 stage resonse, the first a polite "no sorry", moving on swiftly to a straight "look, just f/ off will ya!, , which usually is enough..... The odd occaision of reaching level 3 is less verbal, slipping my bass strap off usually has them leaving....... Note to self : Must remeber i cant walk very well any more and im not the lad i used to be, but still... Im easily excited ,especially when there are drunken idiots near my gear hahaha Theres always one loon at every gig...... Part reason why i packed in pup gigs years ago.... Im a bit more patient these days though and can afford to be a little more selctive with venues....

Im a banjist, love it..... I always said it has similarities to the bass in playing sytle, bit like slap, very percusive.... I love it... Had one years ago and sold it to buy a ticket to go see gilmour play.... Loved seeing dabid gilmour but regretted selling the banjo,deeply, but another soon after and never shall we part. Cripple creek forever dudes !

Just looking at adding a piece off threaded stud with lock nut and washer .size M8....? glued joint using either gorrilla, mabe hyde glue, or epoxy ? If i remove the fret board and drill though i can bolt through and conceal the threaded bar/ washer/ locknut quite well... ? How exactly would one go about remiving the finger board ?

Guys, i am truly appreciative of your direction and help. Keving, top class , pm sent with gratis. Well, i picked here up today.... Came with soft gig bag which that itself likley cost close to what i paid! Everything is there with exception of the bridge. Sound post is firmly in place. The repair looks simple, i will opt for bolting through and glueing with intention of going for strength over beauty, allthough to be fair im sure i can make it all quite discreet in appearance. Some of you will likely shudder at the thought but please ber in mind its cost very little and is for starting out If i bolt it at least i can move it , maybe even gig it with a bit more confidence it wont fall in half whilst playing ...

[quote name='keving' timestamp='1452281679' post='2948548'] I still have the strings that came fitted to my Thomann bass before I put Spirocores on it. They're not great, but will at least get you started and find out if it is worth investing in a better set. If you PM me your address you can have them. [/quote] I think i love you Pm sent !

Great advice thanks.... I will try and find a local suitable luthier, if any one has any suggestions or contact nearby Runcorn , warrington, liverpool, chester area please let me know... What are silks ?

Thanks steve I will post some pics.... Good news is, it does have end pin and tailpeice. I will check sound post, thanks... The heel part of the neck has broken across where it dove tails into the joint, it looks like it would, after cleaning up, slot back it place nicely, helped with drilling and fixing dowels or buscuit joints and some high grade wood glue. The shop said the other one they did had the same break but less cosmetic damage so they repaired it with wood glue and a countersunk screw right through fret board which was nicely filled over to pretty things up. Id prefer to at least try a more "organic" method of repairing the joint but to be fair, im not precious if it works well enough... We are talking low valueso if i get a good result its a winner, if not it will make sime expensive kindling fir the fire Im fairly confident i can repair it well from a jointing two bits of woods perspective but im mindfull of ensuring it is fixed correctky so's not to affect action etc..... The fettling of a new bridge is ok i guess but i dont even know where it should be position in respect of intonation etc ( does that even matter with a fretless or will minir nuances be picked up by finger poition when freting ? God i really am a dullard here ! Is string hight simply lowered by removing wood from bridge feet or more obvious by buying an adjustable bridge ? I suppose my questions rekate mire to set up than repair ? I just hope when all done i will have made it playable in such a way that the bass itself plays little factor in whether i can take to the upright playing thing or not, id hate to try and not enjoy and the truth be it was because im trying to play a god awful peice of junk ? I can but try

Hi folks Hoping you can help with some advice, suggestion and general guidance.... Ive wanted to try my hand (s) at upright bass for many years but never had the cash spare to "try".... Well, an opportunity has come up for me to buy very very cheap a bass which is new, but broken in transit.... Its sat in a store room of a local shop for some time and took various knocks and bumps, but in general its basically just the neck joint has come apart, the rest is cosmetic. Im fairly good with this type of repair but wondered if there is anything i should be mindfull of rather than just cleaning the splinters out and glueing it back in ? Im not precious, even if i have to dowel the joint or screw it and fill over, as long as i can be sure the neck is set right, at right angle ( no nit ar a right angle! Hahaha) im just mindfull off set up once done ? Any hoo, its missing a bridge, i will need one, but know nothing about them such as type , adjustable, hight , nothing! What should i be looking for ? Also , the thing that retains the strings at the bottom end (sorry, no idea what its even called!) what is it called so i can search for one ? Will need to buy strings too , no idea about gauge, what as a beginer should i look for ? Sorry to sound so ignorant im picking it up tomorrow ir saturday so will be keen to get to work on it Thanks guys, im sooo excited !

Hahahah divvies

Once had a guitarist turn up for an audition, it was at the time of grunge bands...... In he came, jumper 3 sizes too big, holes in his jeans, looked like he hadn't slept....ever...... All was going well with Kevin until Half way into first number. without any warning, he suddenly explodes from his staring at the floor staggering round like a drunk approach and he launches his strat across the room ! A good 6 feet into the air ! we all watched in slow motion horror as it crashed down onto the hard vynal tiled floor of the local community centre, the head stock snapping clean off !!! A mangled mess off strings and splinters ! Kevin didn't have another guitar and chose to mope off out the door into the night..... Never to be seen again

Ha! Just watching the heart of the sea now, the moby dick re make