anzoid

Tom just bought my Status Streamline 5-string and the whole transaction was completely painless - really fast responses to messages, instant payment and overall excellent communication throughout. Thank you Tom for trusting this relative newcomer to the BC marketplace!

Cool, thanks guys. I had it in my head that shimming was [a] a desperate last resort and [b] that you used a flat shim to raise the whole neck (which would in this case have required a rather thick shim...). Just read through BOD2's "How to shim" ([url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/49897-how-to-shim-a-neck/"]http://basschat.co.u...to-shim-a-neck/[/url]) a neck and it looks doable so will give that a go. My P-bass is a 1998/99 MIM so no tilt adjustment - though interestingly the tilt mechanism presumably creates an air gap and "disconnects" the neck somewhat from the body? Which the full length shim people seem to think is unacceptable... but guess it works

Got a Gotoh 201 bridge installed on my Fender P-bass fretless - the saddles are down as low as possible, I've trimmed the nut to within an inch of its life and still the action is a little too high. Neck relief is about right, I just can't get the strings lower. Would swapping out the Gotoh for a Wilkinson (or even a cheapish BBOT) give me an extra mm or so - i.e. anyone know exactly how thick the plate is on a Wilkinson bridge (the one with brass saddles). Saddles diameter would also be useful. The saddles on the Gotoh are 9mm.

If you want the piezo bridge (which may fit in a standard Steinberger bridge like you might be able to pick up from a Hohner B2 type bass... you'd probbaly need measurements...) then they have one of those too: https://www.collarwoodworks.com/products/511-original-steinberger-synapse-xs-1fpa-stereo-bridge-system-parts-project-diy

You could see if you can pick up an old Steinberger Synapse bridge and associated headless parts - there's a piezo in one piece saddle. Intonation can be a bit hit or miss with said saddle but the tone isn't too bad. Here's one I found - https://www.collarwoodworks.com/products/511-original-steinberger-synapse-xs-1fpa-stereo-bridge-system-parts-project-diy Even better is the piezo of an NS Design Radius - I suppose you could see if the parts can be purchased separately from a whole bass... though the design is a little different from the typical headless setup.

Tempted to make an offer of £150 and put the damn thing out its misery. Could probably sell most of the parts - and there's a few structural engineers that might be able to make use of the strings in a small suspension bridge...

I thought a short update might be in order after all the help I received (for which I am very grateful!) The new Tusq nut (in white, which matches what I could find photo wise of an "original") is now in place. Spent an hour or two slowly whittling it down last night. The strings are about 1mm off the board at the nut and I could probably take it lower still, but the rattle has gone! Trimming it down was a combination of sandpaper and using a Stanley knife to scrape plastic off (very carefully...). No slot filing required. Took the bass out this morning to put it through its paces - a real beauty! Fitted it with a clean set of medium-light Fender roundwounds and it sounded awesome with the SD Quater Pounder installed with a KiOgon loom and Gotoh bridge - couldn't be happier. The bass is quite light and sits just right. Now just need to find a brushed/anodised gold (or maybe silver) scratchplate to get it looking exactly how I want So, thanks for the help!!

I went from a GK MB500 thrugh a GK MBE210 cab (similar build to your MB Combo I believe) to the GK amp with two Mark Bass NYC 121 cabs. An awesome upgrade. The MBE was always a bit wooly sounding and a bit boomy. The GK through the NYCs has a very clear tone with the GK grit, is very focused and has some real punch (dare I say heft ). Completely cured my desire for swapping and changing on the amp/cab front (basses is a different question...) - been playing with the GK and NYC121 setup for coming up on two years and very happy.

Don't know much about the BC Blockhead but if you're looking for a cheap Jazz then check out the Squier CV in Inca Silver - http://www.kennysmusic.co.uk/squier-classic-vibe-60s-jazz-bass-inca-silver - that is the best price I've seen it at in the UK. I paid nearly £80 more for mine and love it to bits, awesome quality for the money and sounds very very good.

[quote name='hiram.k.hackenbacker' timestamp='1485852036' post='3227115'] So, the application of that scenario to this case doesn't really fit. The "buyer" in Thailand would either have to send it from their own account and try and get their own bank to refund it without proof that it was sent fraudulently or convince the bank that it was sent fraudulently sent without any evidence in the hope thatbthe bank might reverse it. As you say, there are always some asshats trying to find a work around. [/quote] I suppose that would make things harder if the buyer did want to try and claim the money back somehow - but you can't feeling that either way you'd end up pn the losing side... [quote name='hiram.k.hackenbacker' timestamp='1485852392' post='3227118'] As a buyer and a seller I absolutely insist on it followed by an old school firm shake of the hand to do the deal. A little thing, but it means a lot. [/quote] Yeah, seems to work best. Just made a trip last Friday to Weymouth to pick up a fretless Fender P-bass. Counted the cash onto the table, we shook hands and chatted for a bit before I headed home. Easy transaction, no fuss or hassle with a genuinely pleasant seller.

T-Bay - that's scary I had it in my head (I guess others do to) that once someone's done a bank transfer to you it's a done deal... but... are there any truly safe ways of trading with people...? Cash on collection maybe (unless they turn up with a large stick) but then you limit your potential sales audience by an order of magnitude or two. The rate at which stuff's shifting (i.e. slowly) means that you need a bigger pool of potential buyers to even have a hope of a sale these days (now, when I were a wee lad, etc. etc.) Kinda demoralising...

Didn't even get to the point of discussing the type of PayPal payment - I'm guessing that he would have preferred gift and I would have said "no way" Still not had any reply to my last message - so I think there won't be a deal. [quote name='T-Bay' timestamp='1485806085' post='3226881'] Even bank transfer isn't as guaranteed as people think it is, it can still be claimed back in certain circumstances. [/quote] Intrigued as to how someone might go about claiming back a bank transfer - guessing that if the person makes enough fuss the bank will just take it from your account or some such? Worrying thought...

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1485789315' post='3226683'] I'd insist on a bank transfer of funds and properly declared value. If he says OK then you've made a sale. I'd expect not to hear back though. [/quote] Funnily enough, after saying this... I've not heard back. And he was so keen this morning!

Thanks guys, confirmed my gut feeling and that I sent the right response. If I hear back with anything else I'll just say "thanks, but not interested" and post anything ridiculous that gets said

Thanks Grangur, Doh! Yeah, file the bottom of the nut makes more sense than cutting the slots down (and I just ordered that nice file thing you linked ) Right, need to go find some sandpaper...

Not 100% sure where to put this so, Mods, feel free to move it to the right place. Got my Status Streamline 5-string up for sale and got a message from someone (zero posts...) asking me to ship to Thailand. I quoted a price and requested direct bank transfer. He/She has come back asking if I take PayPal and would I declare the value of the bass at £200 to avoid import tax. My reply was: no to PayPal to a non-UK destination, and no to mis-declaring the value of the bass (it's worth a little more than £200...). Right response, or would you have done the deal?

OK, last dumb question of the day... I fitted the new Graphtech nut - it dropped straight in but was pretty tight (i.e. getting it out could be a struggle...). Re-strung and the nut is definetly too high - can barely get the string to touch the fingerboard at the first fretline SO, do I need to remove the nut to file it down (files ordered as per the link above ) or can I do the job with the nut "in situ"? I'm lovin' this bass cause I feel like I'm really making it mine!

Yeah, not hearing a difference - and prior to listening I'd been playing my own P-bass for about an hour and wondering whether I've got everything setup right - and it sounds just like yours I think that sometimes what we hear, particularly when playing at home on our own through a small amp, is a combination of what's coming out of the amp, the acoustic sound of the bass and the feel of the vibrations as you play - and the sum is (obviously) more than what you get if you're just recording the output of the bass into a soundcard or something. I think even sitting down to play can make a difference as the bass can be higher than when on a strap and that makes the normal creaks and sympathetic vibratins of the bass more prominent... Anyway, just an observation from my own playing quietly (relatively...) at home versus standing up and playing loud versus recording my bass.

Sorry, was being a smart-arse with the ® Found out a very local music shop had the Graphtech nuts for £9 so raided the piggy bank and went and bought one after lunch. I think he was a little surprised when I asked whether he was happy with cash and then proceeded to count it all out in loose change Thanks for the link to the lacquer - will have a think about doing that, and see if my Father-in-law would let me use his garage for spraying the stuff...

[quote name='CameronJ' timestamp='1485204752' post='3222141'] On a side note - any suggestions on where I could get a red tort pickguard made for this?? [/quote] You could try Jack's Instrument Services - http://www.jacksinstrumentservices.com/ Had a scratchplate done by him from a template I sent for a Stringray copy with a modded pickup layout - excellent quality, fast turnaround and really friendly helpful service. They also did a re-fin for me which was superb too (that bass is long gone though...)

Finally got the P-bass loom fitted - superb quality and easy as anything to get installed. Thank you John

Thanks Grangur - really helpful! Do you think there's any advantage in getting a genuine Graphtech[sup]®[/sup] nut over a £5 one off the bay? I think I might leave the neck dings until I feel more confident with the idea of using lacquer... i.e. never And a couple of photos... this one does exist [attachment=236800:20170128-IMG_8909.jpg] [attachment=236802:20170128-IMG_8910.jpg] [attachment=236803:20170128-IMG_8914.jpg]

Just bought a 1999 MIM Fender fretless P-bass. For its age it's in great condition and, anyway, the price was IMO very good. Got it home and moved the parts from my project Westfield "mucking around" bass to the Fender - Gotoh bridge, SD Quarter Punder, KiOgon loom, white scratchplate, etc. and everything is good. The action was a mile high when I got it but with the Gotoh and a bit of tweaking it's now very playable. Just got two issues - one functional, the other cosmetic. The nut seems to be a bit of a mess. It had very thick flatwounds on it (I prefer roundwounds, despite fingerboard stuff...) and putting my normal 45-100s on it... well, the A string in particular kinda rattles on open notes. The nut also appears to be not original anyway and is flat-bottomed (there are noticeable gaps at the end of the nut) rather than curved, which is I believe the standard on Fenders? So, planning on replacing it with a Graphtech PT-1204-00. Would this be the one? I'm guessing that I might have to file the slots slightly as it's a fretless so - what are the recommendations for cheap files (I'm not going to be doing this at all often!) Is something like this- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mr-Power-Music-Sander-Files-For-Guitar-Bass-Nut-And-Bridge-/122307258170- worth it, or is there something I can get at Homebase/B&Q? (As an aside - anyone know what colour nut the original would have had? The bass is black with rosewood board) Final question, the cosmetic one..., the neck has quite a few dents in it, making it a bit rough, but by no means intolerable. I've read (and/or heard) that you can steam dents out of the wood. Is that something you can do on a neck? The neck is gloss rather than satin if that makes a difference... Any hints on where to find a good tutorial/explanation of the process? OK, lots of questions in the end. Any advice would be appreciated and most welcome.