Woodinblack

On this point - I am at the point I need to put this in but I notice that your flat goes to teh back of the case, whereas the diagram puts it to the front. Seems it actually clears either way, but which is it supposed to be? Also, the parts list doesn't have the T-Nuts in the handle, just self tapping screws - are they ok and you just wanted to be extra secure or is this recommended?

The vicos one - actually one of 2, but it is also powering some other things, and I think it is too much. The problem with a split power input like that on an isolated supply is that no voltage is perfect, so one of the sides will provide slightly more power than the other, and then at some point if your PSU is already flat out, one side shuts down because it is too hot leaving the other one to do all the work, which doesn't last long. Probably need to run two psus. Yeh, the uk plug comes off as it is only held on one side, a bit of a poor design

I had mine powered with a current doubling lead for a bit but unfortunately my power supply couldn't cope with it on a 3 hour gig, so I have had to go back to its original supply - need to make a different power supply for it.

Well, it's a chunk of wood with a pickup on it, can't go too far wrong really 😀

No it couldn't, it could just be threatened

Don't be silly, that is not how you put a pick guard on!

No, my wrongo - I still have it, although not currently working as I have to rewire it - it was wired with a preamp that was on permanently! Disturbing thing, it sounds ok.

If any part of my room looked as tidy as yours, my wife would be amazed, so yes, pretty tidy!

I don't think I could get mine as tidy as any of these without employing fire.

You think that is bad? I really don't understand why someone takes a perfectly fine bass and sticks a tortoiseshell pickguard on it? I mean that is completely crazy. There are some sick people in the world.

Speaking as a complete wuss when it comes to weight, the tribute isn't heavy? Its heavier than a Squier CV P and an Ibanez 1605, but loads lighter than a SR5005 and a thunderbird.

Headstocks are such a personal thing anyway, they really can kill a design. I much prefer the G&L one to the fender on, which I have never liked, and some of the big square gibson ones (which look ok on guitars and absolutely terrible on 5 strings). I have an L2500 tribute, it is a good bass, never my first choice as it is a bit too fender for me but everytime I have looked at selling it, something has stopped me. At least it stops me wanting a fender.

Doesn't astonish me, if I wanted a more vintage sound I would use my SR1000 (or maybe the 5005). Good enough to Carol Kaye and she seems to get a fairly vintage sound!

So the only think I don't think I have ordered yet is the grille. There doesn't seem to be anything like you have on ebay, the only one that SGS metals have is an aluminium one with holes, which looks similar to the speaker grille that blue arran sell. Did everyone get theirs when they were available?

Well, I got some black spray. Still waiting for some clamps to turn up I did glue the middle bits on the back.

They don't have to be brown of course:

Are those the pitches of the steps? I am assuming you can change the number of steps.

So did you get the skirting boards painted?

Not generally, they just put the signal through, but they don't disconnect the battery.

Hmm.. worth thinking about then, maybe it is not as good an idea as it sounds. On the plus side, blue aran are sending me another handle out today, that is pretty good service

Ooh - now you got me thinking. When I was looking at my minirouter to do this, i found a thing that clamped onto it with a roller that was for doing furniture arms, basically just an adjustable thing to run along a solid surface. That would do the handle inset nicely, the only downside is that it makes the wood thinner where you want the strength to be. Not sure how much of an impact that would have if you are only taking it down a few mm.

I got back from screwfix after getting the spray glue and the PVC pipe. I cut the pipe and then I thought I had some black spray under a unit in the shed. I reached in and pulled out.. a full can of spray glue, yay! Oh well, not going to be short of that. Anyway, after cutting the pipe I was looking at this piece, as one of the first things to do, and after much deliberation of the "you know if you get the router out you WILL mess it up" type, I once again overruled my common sense and decided that I didn't like the option of just glueing it, so I used the open brace as a half template, and in two cuts, did a recess around the hole. And didn't mess it up.

The padding stuff, is it like ebay item 162935948623? It misses out the word cotton, but looks the same

Its perfectly possible to have a system that detects the playing level and switches off after an hour, but it would be a lot of electronics, it would take more power and it is a problem that would be very expensive to solve something that is not really a problem for most people! It would also be possible to have it on a switch as well, as long as you are aware that if you hit the switch accidentally when you are playing your bass goes dead and if you then flick it back on you would get a massive pop risking taking your speaker out! Actually it would be possible to make a bypass that also took the battery out, not on a push pull pot, but on a separate switch (on any bass, if you had the room).

I am sure that is easy enough but apart from one bass with dodgy wiring, I never had an active bass where the battery didn't last over a year (and my SR1000 is its 3rd battery and I bought it over 10 years ago).