PigBass

In my last band I also wrote the set list on a piece of paper and pinned it up ...... 🙂 However I have just joined three new bands, each has about 15 -20 songs in their set list, I am not that familiar with most of them. Essentially 40 new songs to learn and I'm a slow learner so I don't have enough time to devote to it. For rehearsals I have a folder with printed sheets for these songs containing maybe chords or simply the structure with stops and starts etc. That works for me, but I guess if you're in a situation where you have 100 or so songs to play or you're depping and you need anything from a quick reminder of the structure to a full score/tab/chord chart it gets cumbersome using paper. These apps put it all on a tablet so you open the song and you have the relevant prompts on screen. Some have features so you can enter the song duration or BPM and the material scrolls at the right speed as you play. In the right situation they are really useful.

Sorry if I am missing the point here (it's been known) but the two key choices you have are the Pickguardian Perspex type flush mounted plate or the Rickysounds bezel fitting - both shown in ezbass's pictures. The flush Perspex type replaces all the chrome so there is no height difference in reality, just replace the chrome with the new fitting as per ezbass's right picture. I fitted the second type as in: https://www.rickysounds.co.uk/product-category/bass-guitar-bezels/ and shown in ezbass's left picture, this one is in place of the two black rubber spacers you see below the spring, so again there's no need to adjust or buy anything else. Hope that helps, Darren.

Just bought a cab off Dave, top man. Great comms all the way and easy to deal with - cheers Dave. Darren.

Thanks for taking the time to do this, looks like my Google skills aren’t as good as I thought 😂

My son has this bass but he just doesn’t play it so he decided he would like to sell it - but apart from “Jazz Sound” I have no idea what model it is. I am just trying to avoid saying it is XXXX in ignorance and misleading someone. I’ve googled for hours but no joy, there are several jazz models, some are Japanese, some not, but I can’t work out how to tell the difference given that there are no obvious (to my inexperienced brain) clues on the neck, body, or neck pocket. Any help would be much appreciated. Darren.

If you just need a temporary solution to see if the head/cab combination works, then you could try one of these - https://amzn.eu/d/6KLCXDQ it is just a female to female jack connector type thing - assuming you have a Speakon to Jack lead already. I was in a similar situation and this did the trick. Wouldn't rely on it as a gig-ready solution, but it would tell you that a more robust/permanent solution as suggested above is worth the investment.

Thanks for that KinkMaster, I was sure I'd read that somewhere when I originally bought my Terror Bass 500 Mk1 but just couldn't find it again so assumed I had dreamt it 😄. When I originally searched on the Orange support site this is what I found: 1. SPEAKER OUTPUTS Refer to ‘Before Using Your Amplifier’. Make sure the correct speaker load and power handling is connected or that the DI is connected! Total minimum impedance = 4Ω (Ohms). Speaker outputs are wired in parallel (Speakon connector only). Full output power = 500 Watts @ 4Ω (Ohms). 2. SPEAKER IMPEDANCE SWITCHMake sure this switch matches your speakers impedance. So no reference to max power at 8 Ohms, but I searched again just now and found the manual version you referred to. I also found the circuit diagrams on line and the 4/8 Ohm switch does seem to add a 30K (not 2.2K as Joe says) resistor but I am certainly not clever enough to fully understand the diagram. All in all I am still confused as to the real answer, as are Orange apparently. Darren.

Hello KinkMaster, there is another thread on here that has essentially turned into this discussion. I contacted Orange tech support because I also believed the TerrorBass Mk1 delivered 500W into 8 Ohms and 4 Ohms but according to them it is not the case, it will put 250W into an 8 Ohm cab. This is simplifying the situation somewhat and Bill Maurice's explanations/comments are very helpful as usual. The explanation from Orange: Hi Darren, The impedance switch works more like a limit switch. The switch is connected to a limiter circuit. When 4 ohms is selected it bypasses an additional resistor, when in 8 ohms the circuit engages this additional 2.2k resistor. This is to get the most out of your signal when matching impedance. I don’t believe there to be any difference in this circuit from MK1 and MK2 I hope this is helpful. Kind regards, Joe

I must have dreamed this. I contacted Orange and a helpful chap called Joe gave me this information: Hi Darren, The impedance switch works more like a limit switch. The switch is connected to a limiter circuit. When 4 ohms is selected it bypasses an additional resistor, when in 8 ohms the circuit engages this additional 2.2k resistor. This is to get the most out of your signal when matching impedance. I don’t believe there to be any difference in this circuit from MK1 and MK2 I hope this is helpful. Kind regards, Joe

You’re very welcome, hope it worked.

Hi Dave, really easy on paper but it's a bit fiddly in practice. Here's the instructions from the Orange website: https://orangeamps.com/product/pilot-light-bulb/ It is a bayonette fitting so unscrew the jewel cover then push the bulb gently and turn anticlockwise. I just did it on mine and it works, moisten your finger tip slightly to make it a bit grippier, or put on a rubber washing up glove..... Cheers, Darren.

Good question CJPJ. I hv the Terror Bass Mk1 and am sure I read exactly this in the user manual. However I can’t see it in the current model online manual, so maybe it was just a bad dream 😂 . I wonder what the switch is for if it is not the case - very odd. In any case the 8 Ohm setting is correct for this cab, and apologies for any confusion caused by my poor memory. Darren.

Hello Pan, I just checked the Orange website and the cab is indeed listed as 8 Ohms as Breadbin mentioned so that’s the setting you should use on the amp. There is a conversation to be had about the fact that the amp can potentially deliver the full 500W into an 8 Ohm load using this setting, and the cab has a max handling limit of 400W. I’d personally not worry so much about this unless you intend to run everything at full volume. Listen to your cab, it will tell you if you’re stressing it. Cheers, Darren. EDIT I'll add a post to correct the statement about the impedance switch - I got it wrong

Thanks Chris for your kind feedback. It was a pleasure to deal with you too. I’m delighted that you like the cab, all the best, Darren.

Just sold a cab to Chris, very pleasant chap, great communication all the way through the deal; easy to do business with. Would not hesitate to deal with him again. Thanks Chris!! Darren.

Many thanks for your kind words Pete, likewise it was a pleasure to do business with you. Hope the pedal helps to solve your problem. Cheers, Darren.

Hi Fleabag, I have a Behringer AB100 (bought it, tried it, found that it worked perfectly and that I also never needed it) but I can confirm that it is switchable from either 2 in 1 out, or 1 in 2 out. Darren.

Hello @www68The idea is that the signal from your bass passes through the pre-amp stage in your amplifier and is then passed effectively via a pair of wires from the pre-amp to the power stage. The FX Send jack acts like a make break switch in that pair of wires, so in position 1 with no plug inserted, the signal is passed straight to the power stage. In position 2 with a jack plug inserted, the signal is interrupted and diverted via your effects cable through any effects and then returned via the FX Return Jack. If the FX Send jack is dirty or broken, the switch might be in position 2 but since there's no signal entering the Return FX socket you have no sound. Running a patch cable or any other instrument cable between the Send and Return FX sockets should eliminate a faulty FX Send socket. Hope that helps.

Hello @nige1968 I just checked my 7215 SMC combo and just as Ashdown have said for yours, the +ve is white and -ve is white/black. Hope that helps.

Congratulations @GGM!! I love my Midnight Blue 4003. I also removed the pickup cover but that metal surround seems to be made from razor blades 🙂 I cant see if you have one already but I fitted a bezel that effectively fills the hole around the pup and prevents you catching your fingers. Here's a link to one sold by DVD but there are others on the market https://www.dv247.com/en_GB/GBP/Rickenbacker-Bezel-Thumbrest/art-BAS0010567-000?campaign=GShopping/GB&ProgramUUID=5G_AqJarZwoAAAFl0FZyjI8V&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2MDur8XZ6wIVVeDtCh2WtALzEAQYAiABEgJ52vD_BwE it's pricey for a little bit of black plastic but does the trick. Cheers, Darren.

I’m in. Cheers.

Hello Kinghomer1975, I am fully prepared to have rotten tomatoes thrown at me for suggesting this 😊 did you also check the fuse in the mains plug? Assuming you really mean no power as opposed to no output (i.e. the red power light is off) you may have been using a generic mains lead fitted with a 3 amp fuse which is fine while you’re only using the internal speaker. The additional speaker draws more mains power for the amp section and so it may have exceeded the fuse capacity. Sounds too obvious but I’ve seen very experienced techs overlook the too obvious. I’m going to hide somewhere I think 😊

It’s a long shot but Ashdown hv a range of wide amp heads, the ABM 2000 evo iii for example. They also had a series of abm amp called “wide boys” which I think were the head units used in their combos. The dimensions appear to be similar, so I’m thinking maybe they would sell you a replacement sleeve? Worth a call in any case. Good luck.