PigBass

Many thanks for your kind words Pete, likewise it was a pleasure to do business with you. Hope the pedal helps to solve your problem. Cheers, Darren.

Hi Fleabag, I have a Behringer AB100 (bought it, tried it, found that it worked perfectly and that I also never needed it) but I can confirm that it is switchable from either 2 in 1 out, or 1 in 2 out. Darren.

Hello @www68The idea is that the signal from your bass passes through the pre-amp stage in your amplifier and is then passed effectively via a pair of wires from the pre-amp to the power stage. The FX Send jack acts like a make break switch in that pair of wires, so in position 1 with no plug inserted, the signal is passed straight to the power stage. In position 2 with a jack plug inserted, the signal is interrupted and diverted via your effects cable through any effects and then returned via the FX Return Jack. If the FX Send jack is dirty or broken, the switch might be in position 2 but since there's no signal entering the Return FX socket you have no sound. Running a patch cable or any other instrument cable between the Send and Return FX sockets should eliminate a faulty FX Send socket. Hope that helps.

Hello @nige1968 I just checked my 7215 SMC combo and just as Ashdown have said for yours, the +ve is white and -ve is white/black. Hope that helps.

Congratulations @GGM!! I love my Midnight Blue 4003. I also removed the pickup cover but that metal surround seems to be made from razor blades 🙂 I cant see if you have one already but I fitted a bezel that effectively fills the hole around the pup and prevents you catching your fingers. Here's a link to one sold by DVD but there are others on the market https://www.dv247.com/en_GB/GBP/Rickenbacker-Bezel-Thumbrest/art-BAS0010567-000?campaign=GShopping/GB&ProgramUUID=5G_AqJarZwoAAAFl0FZyjI8V&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2MDur8XZ6wIVVeDtCh2WtALzEAQYAiABEgJ52vD_BwE it's pricey for a little bit of black plastic but does the trick. Cheers, Darren.

I’m in. Cheers.

Hello Kinghomer1975, I am fully prepared to have rotten tomatoes thrown at me for suggesting this 😊 did you also check the fuse in the mains plug? Assuming you really mean no power as opposed to no output (i.e. the red power light is off) you may have been using a generic mains lead fitted with a 3 amp fuse which is fine while you’re only using the internal speaker. The additional speaker draws more mains power for the amp section and so it may have exceeded the fuse capacity. Sounds too obvious but I’ve seen very experienced techs overlook the too obvious. I’m going to hide somewhere I think 😊

It’s a long shot but Ashdown hv a range of wide amp heads, the ABM 2000 evo iii for example. They also had a series of abm amp called “wide boys” which I think were the head units used in their combos. The dimensions appear to be similar, so I’m thinking maybe they would sell you a replacement sleeve? Worth a call in any case. Good luck.

Hi Andy, I am also pretty close to Ilford and am happy to be a back up option to ratman.

I had cases made for my 4003 and Jazz by this guy: https://sites.google.com/site/kinghamcases/home. They ain't cheap but I've been regularly gigging with both for around 10 years and they are still like new. The company is Kingham Cases if the link doesn't work he specialises in making cases for some really odd-shaped classical instruments. You'll see the 4003 case under "stringed instruments", just click on the first image to see the gallery.

Hi, just did a search and found this: http://music-electronics-forum.com/t38470/ is it what you were looking for? If the link doesn't work I downloaded the files so just pm me.

Thanks so much for the heads up on this Doomed; ordered and on its way.

[color=#222222]Hello Norris, I just measured the saddles on my bass to see if they are centre cut, the D and G are pretty much bang on, the E and A are about 1 mm off. So not much in it. As far as I remember, the last time I took my bridge off, I noticed that the saddles had a fair amount of movement left and right simply because the slot they move in is wider than required. Slackening the adjuster screw initially moved the saddle to the left before winding back. Yours may just need a bit of lubrication to get them free.[/color][color=#222222] [/color] [color=#222222]As far as intonation is concerned generally the G saddle (measured to the break edge where the string passes over) is pretty much the same distance from the 12[sup]th[/sup] fret as the nut is from the 12[sup]th[/sup] fret (it’s not exactly correct as it should be that distance + the string diameter, but the G string is small enough not to be significant for an initial guide). However each subsequent saddle break edge is set further back from the 12[sup]th[/sup] fret by the string diameter. Check the Intonation article on this rather informative website: [url="http://www.fender.com/en-GB/support/articles/bass-guitar-setup-guide/"][color=#0563C1]http://www.fender.com/en-GB/support/articles/bass-guitar-setup-guide/[/color][/url] So each successive saddle (moving from G to E) should sit further away from the nut, but yours do not.[/color] I really hope this helps.

Does this help? It all looks quite central to me. Sorry if this is a real stoopid question but is your mate's bridge (the part with the saddles on it) fitted the right way around? Adjustment screws face the rear of the tail piece. I am not even sure that you can fit it back to front but might be worth checking.