PigBass

Like others have said, there's pretty much nothing inside that you'll hit unless you plan on using 10 inch bolts 😁 If it was mine, I'd go the extra mile by removing the speaker, fit the handles with the speaker removed and then put about 2 inches of wadding all around the inside surfaces of the box (leave the ports uncovered of course), the improvement in sound is well worth the effort. Cheers, Darren.

I've been using the same set up as this for a few years now, it's astonishing how it does what it does, small, light, loud and low. Bass, Ashdown, Barefaced and a few cables, for me it is perfect, enjoy your rehearsal 🙂

I have a 7215 SMC Combo which I found to be a little "flabby" at volume, not a great word but hopefully you get what I mean. I spent a couple of hours lining the box with two layers of damping material making a layer of about 4cm deep. The difference in sound is huge in my opinion, significantly more controlled. Using words to describe sound is not easy and it is subjective, but in my view the short answer to your question is yes, it is would sound better. Weight wise it's gone up from the weight of a small planet to the weight of a small planet + about 3 ounces 😁 Darren.

Just bought a cab off Pete, collected it this morning. Had a chat and a few laughs over a cuppa before I disappeared back to loverly Romford. The cab was exactly as described; thanks Pete for a really easy transaction and for holding the cab for a couple of days with no payment requested up front. I've sold to, and bought from him now and would have no problems doing so again, buy from him with total confidence, great chap very easy to deal with. Cheers, Darren.

Many thanks Pete, it was a pleasure to meet you too, loving the cab as well 🙂

I've been using one of these cases for about 10 years, they are really tough. Mine is branded Stagg but PMT sell them under the name TourTech https://www.pmtonline.co.uk/tourtech-ttc-up535-effector-case-pedalboard-hard-case

Might be a bit if a red herring but I did a Google search on this problem and found a discussion on the Orange site regarding fuses in these cabs. If you face the front of the cab, then remove the right hand handle there are apparently two fuses inside the cab, one is related to the horn, I'm guessing there may be general protection for the tens as well??? Unfortunately I don't have one of these cabs so cannot check for you - and to make it slightly more difficult I found no other reference or wiring diagram.... Could be nothing but worth a look maybe? Would explain the sequence of events and why all four speakers now suddenly don't work. Darren.

Yes, as el borracho said earlier, it would certainly appear to be Rosetti - on their website just now: https://www.rosetti.co.uk/cases-gigbags/rosetti

Yes I was just trying to offer an example of how these "Set List" apps are useful but it was badly worded on my part 🙂 These are three new "start from scratch" bands and we have agreed an initial 15 - 20 songs in each band to get us started; naturally the song lists will grow quite quickly. We're all retired and playing for fun at the moment, gigs later maybe but not now. It works for us anyway.

In my last band I also wrote the set list on a piece of paper and pinned it up ...... 🙂 However I have just joined three new bands, each has about 15 -20 songs in their set list, I am not that familiar with most of them. Essentially 40 new songs to learn and I'm a slow learner so I don't have enough time to devote to it. For rehearsals I have a folder with printed sheets for these songs containing maybe chords or simply the structure with stops and starts etc. That works for me, but I guess if you're in a situation where you have 100 or so songs to play or you're depping and you need anything from a quick reminder of the structure to a full score/tab/chord chart it gets cumbersome using paper. These apps put it all on a tablet so you open the song and you have the relevant prompts on screen. Some have features so you can enter the song duration or BPM and the material scrolls at the right speed as you play. In the right situation they are really useful.

Sorry if I am missing the point here (it's been known) but the two key choices you have are the Pickguardian Perspex type flush mounted plate or the Rickysounds bezel fitting - both shown in ezbass's pictures. The flush Perspex type replaces all the chrome so there is no height difference in reality, just replace the chrome with the new fitting as per ezbass's right picture. I fitted the second type as in: https://www.rickysounds.co.uk/product-category/bass-guitar-bezels/ and shown in ezbass's left picture, this one is in place of the two black rubber spacers you see below the spring, so again there's no need to adjust or buy anything else. Hope that helps, Darren.

Just bought a cab off Dave, top man. Great comms all the way and easy to deal with - cheers Dave. Darren.

Thanks for taking the time to do this, looks like my Google skills aren’t as good as I thought 😂

My son has this bass but he just doesn’t play it so he decided he would like to sell it - but apart from “Jazz Sound” I have no idea what model it is. I am just trying to avoid saying it is XXXX in ignorance and misleading someone. I’ve googled for hours but no joy, there are several jazz models, some are Japanese, some not, but I can’t work out how to tell the difference given that there are no obvious (to my inexperienced brain) clues on the neck, body, or neck pocket. Any help would be much appreciated. Darren.

If you just need a temporary solution to see if the head/cab combination works, then you could try one of these - https://amzn.eu/d/6KLCXDQ it is just a female to female jack connector type thing - assuming you have a Speakon to Jack lead already. I was in a similar situation and this did the trick. Wouldn't rely on it as a gig-ready solution, but it would tell you that a more robust/permanent solution as suggested above is worth the investment.

Thanks for that KinkMaster, I was sure I'd read that somewhere when I originally bought my Terror Bass 500 Mk1 but just couldn't find it again so assumed I had dreamt it 😄. When I originally searched on the Orange support site this is what I found: 1. SPEAKER OUTPUTS Refer to ‘Before Using Your Amplifier’. Make sure the correct speaker load and power handling is connected or that the DI is connected! Total minimum impedance = 4Ω (Ohms). Speaker outputs are wired in parallel (Speakon connector only). Full output power = 500 Watts @ 4Ω (Ohms). 2. SPEAKER IMPEDANCE SWITCHMake sure this switch matches your speakers impedance. So no reference to max power at 8 Ohms, but I searched again just now and found the manual version you referred to. I also found the circuit diagrams on line and the 4/8 Ohm switch does seem to add a 30K (not 2.2K as Joe says) resistor but I am certainly not clever enough to fully understand the diagram. All in all I am still confused as to the real answer, as are Orange apparently. Darren.

Hello KinkMaster, there is another thread on here that has essentially turned into this discussion. I contacted Orange tech support because I also believed the TerrorBass Mk1 delivered 500W into 8 Ohms and 4 Ohms but according to them it is not the case, it will put 250W into an 8 Ohm cab. This is simplifying the situation somewhat and Bill Maurice's explanations/comments are very helpful as usual. The explanation from Orange: Hi Darren, The impedance switch works more like a limit switch. The switch is connected to a limiter circuit. When 4 ohms is selected it bypasses an additional resistor, when in 8 ohms the circuit engages this additional 2.2k resistor. This is to get the most out of your signal when matching impedance. I don’t believe there to be any difference in this circuit from MK1 and MK2 I hope this is helpful. Kind regards, Joe

I must have dreamed this. I contacted Orange and a helpful chap called Joe gave me this information: Hi Darren, The impedance switch works more like a limit switch. The switch is connected to a limiter circuit. When 4 ohms is selected it bypasses an additional resistor, when in 8 ohms the circuit engages this additional 2.2k resistor. This is to get the most out of your signal when matching impedance. I don’t believe there to be any difference in this circuit from MK1 and MK2 I hope this is helpful. Kind regards, Joe

You’re very welcome, hope it worked.

Hi Dave, really easy on paper but it's a bit fiddly in practice. Here's the instructions from the Orange website: https://orangeamps.com/product/pilot-light-bulb/ It is a bayonette fitting so unscrew the jewel cover then push the bulb gently and turn anticlockwise. I just did it on mine and it works, moisten your finger tip slightly to make it a bit grippier, or put on a rubber washing up glove..... Cheers, Darren.

Good question CJPJ. I hv the Terror Bass Mk1 and am sure I read exactly this in the user manual. However I can’t see it in the current model online manual, so maybe it was just a bad dream 😂 . I wonder what the switch is for if it is not the case - very odd. In any case the 8 Ohm setting is correct for this cab, and apologies for any confusion caused by my poor memory. Darren.

Hello Pan, I just checked the Orange website and the cab is indeed listed as 8 Ohms as Breadbin mentioned so that’s the setting you should use on the amp. There is a conversation to be had about the fact that the amp can potentially deliver the full 500W into an 8 Ohm load using this setting, and the cab has a max handling limit of 400W. I’d personally not worry so much about this unless you intend to run everything at full volume. Listen to your cab, it will tell you if you’re stressing it. Cheers, Darren. EDIT I'll add a post to correct the statement about the impedance switch - I got it wrong

Thanks Chris for your kind feedback. It was a pleasure to deal with you too. I’m delighted that you like the cab, all the best, Darren.

Just sold a cab to Chris, very pleasant chap, great communication all the way through the deal; easy to do business with. Would not hesitate to deal with him again. Thanks Chris!! Darren.