thepurpleblob

Just in case it isn't clear (it's always worth stating it again) - the wattage rating on a speaker/cab is the 'maximum' it is rated to before it can/will/might break. To make matters worse it's often a lie because the marketing department likes to pick the biggest number possible to put on the box. Other than a vague guide, it's almost meaningless.

Just to re-iterate, I only mentioned IC2 from the point of view of an obvious place to check the power supply voltages. Always a sensible place to start. I am reluctant to give it undue importance. TBH... I would not recommend blindly re-soldering things unless you can 'see' that the joint is dry (and it *is* worth a look). It's dead easy to short two tracks with solder and overheating the board can lift tracks and damage components.

I just bought a very nice Lakland 55-02 from John. Very friendly chap and sent instantly. Frighteningly good packing too!! Top bloke.... recommended.

Bought my Musicman Stingray-5. Altogether friendly, good bloke. Quickly agreed the deal with no fuss and paid immediately. Would not hesitate to trade again or recommend.

As it sounds like you have nothing to loose, why not fix it yourself. I would think a few carefully chosen washers would give you the extra threads you might need. With the caveat that I have no idea what I'm talking about, luthers seem to have a rig to clamp the neck to stress it in the right direction - presumably takes the strain off the truss rod while getting a rough setting. Shouldn't be too hard to rig up. Other than that, sound quality is in the ear of the beholder. If you like it, bolt it on (assuming it fits of course) and see what happens.

IC2 is a completely standard regulator (pennies from Maplin). However, there's no point randomly changing it without testing. I only really singled it out as an obvious place to check the two voltages the power supply produces. It depends what you mean by 'wobbly' - it's possible it's become dry-jointed and needs re-soldered. As it doesn't seem to have a heat-sink it may run a bit warm and as such is a candidate for that sort of thing. PM me your real email and I'll forward the schematic.

Some manufacturers claim that an amplifier will drive the equivalent of a rusty nail but it doesn't mean it will sound any good. You don't get something for free. If you're driving very low impedances then (and this is a gross generalisation) you are looking at a much hotter amplifier and greater distortion. Again, probably best avoided.

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1325198124' post='1480965'] You can't use the Samson as a backup amp if you want to run all those cabs - it'll only work down to 4Ω and you'll be trying to stick a 2Ω load across it if your speakers are all 4Ω. My inclination would be to get hold of another Samson plus an active crossover and ditch the Behringer. [/quote] Well, in theory you could with a properly set up passive crossover (as the signal is split between the cabs for different frequencies) but it's a lot of faff for no (or negative) benefit.

Yesss.... the stuff about the output stages of valve amps is all quite true (the output stages work a transformer so it's a whole different ball game). I actually have never studied the theory of it, BUT... if it was my amp if the output stage said 15 ohms then I would be thinking of connecting something in the region of 15/16ohms to it. Just to be on the safe side. I'm going to have to read more about valve stuff.. sigh!

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1325194185' post='1480895'] So I can try this without blowing anything up, but I may not like the resulting tone? [/quote] No you can't. That's not good advice. You would be running an amplifier "expecting" 16ohms into half that resistance. A partial short-circuit to rather over-state it.

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1325192378' post='1480860'] Why not just wire an 8Ω 25W resistor in series with your new output socket to fool the amp into seeing 16Ω? A 1Ω difference is nothing in the big scheme of things. Use one of the switchable sockets so you disconnect the internal speaker as you push the plug in just to be on the safe side. [/quote] Because half of the power will go to warming up the resistor which means that the cab is only getting 12W max (i.e. not much) EDIT: >>snap<< the resistor will work because you get one rated at 25W. It's just a bit pointless though.

well you could using passive crossovers (I assume you are saying that the subs have passive crossovers built in?). However, it seems a bit daft to have the two amps and not use them. Even if you don't crank them up it will give you better quality AND you will have more control because you will be using active crossovers. Your mixing desk may well have the necessary crossovers built in.

Unless you know for a fact that the WEM will work at 8 Ohms then, yes, you have a problem. I'm not a big expert on valve amps but I seem to recall that they are much fussier about the output impedance than transistor amps (another reason valve amps are a bad idea, but lets not go there ). The only thing you can do is to get another 8 ohm cab and run them in series. This gives you 16ohms which will do. However, you will need a weird cable and the end result will probably be rubbish.

I used to manage a shop selling car audio gear and the internet thing was getting depressing even then (nearly 10 years ago now). In many cases the internet shops were selling such huge volumes that they retailed stuff cheaper than we could buy it trade. Shops can reasonably claim that they are selling a different product in that you get advice and good service. Except that rather too often you don't. As somebody said, they make the mistake of employing musicians - the last people you would employ to provide good service

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1325114287' post='1480053'] Other way round. An open circuit speaker wouldn't affect the entire cab, at worst it would only stop half the speakers from working as 8x10s are wired in series and parallel. A short circuit one would take the whole thing down as the amp will just see a short and shut down. [/quote] This actually depends on how they are wired internally. That would be the case if the speakers where all in parallel but they won't be. A shorted speaker will drop the overall impedance somewhat. It won't be a dead short but, yes, it might just be enough to make the difference. EDIT: These cabs are 4ohms I think. The only way I can think to do that (correct me if I'm wrong) is with 8ohm drivers. Each pair is in series (giving 16ohms) and then each 16ohm pair is wired in parallel giving an overall 4 ohms. A single short speaker will reduce the impedance to 3.2ohms. I doubt that would be a problem.

Yeh - I have the schematic for it (now I've bothered to look). The power supply produces an unregulated DC 9V and a regulated 5V (through a conventional 3-pin regulator). You're looking for IC2 (a 78M05). Pin 3 in (should be about 9V) Pin 1 out (should be spot on 5V) Pin 2 is ground I'm equally sceptical about the transformer - if they fail (rare in low power equipment) it's usually all or nothing.

Do these things have a backup battery inside (I have no idea). If it does, try powering off, removing it (it might be soldered in) waiting a few minutes and putting it back. Point is that we are forcing the thing to fully reset. After that... if you just want some cash for scrap, I'll take anything like that (some I win on, some I don't).

There's not much you can do without a multimeter. If it's *definitely* the cab (i.e. it works perfectly with another one, for a reasonable time, at a reasonably high volume). You need to put a meter on ohms over the input to the cab (plug a speaker cable in and put the meter across the two jack 'pins'). I'm not sure what impedance those cabs are, but you should get a resistance reading of the order of 75% of the specified rating (e.g. a 4 ohm cab will read about 3-3.5 ohms - dc resistance is different to ac impedance but this will do). If you find it's short (ie substantially less than that) then you are pulling the cab apart, checking the reading on each speaker and the wiring. I'm sceptical that a single shorted speaker could be the cause but you never know. If the cab checks out then it's your amp. Under the circumstances you need a proper repairer as it's (effectively) an intermittent fault.

IMO, the drummer is the most important member of the band. In fact, if the drums and bass are solid then everybody else can get away with all sorts of nonsense!

I played a Yamaha TRB4 for years and it cost me £190. Perhaps not exactly budget as it would have been a lot more new. I regret getting rid of it sometimes - it would stand up against anything. Yamaha make some fabulous stuff at very sensible prices (and, strangely, some oddly overpriced gear too).

I think I'm hovering around a Streamer Stage 1 (which I have played before) and a Lakland (which I haven't). At least I'm trying to do my research (properly) this time It's not really a good time of the year for this carry on. btw.. 'Dom in Somerset' - that's disturbing on so many levels!!!

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1324899618' post='1478304'] As I posted in your other thread, Lakland, all the way. [/quote] I'm getting the hint ....just nobody sells them used and buying a brand new one grates a little !!

[quote name='deepbass5' timestamp='1324896412' post='1478275'] Streamer stage 1 are wide necks the newer stage II are standard spacing, several models did come as optional spec in broard neck. the streamer LX 5&6 the Thumb 5&6 were available [/quote] OK... thanks for the info. A Streamer would be very interesting. As usual, mostly a matter of finding one (at a sensible price, anyway).

Thanks guys - am I right in thinking that the 'wide neck' was an option of Streamers or did they come standard like that?