NickA

No stalking required :¬) .... your old ad is still listed in the basschat market place and pops up on a search for "streamer"; which is a fine way of finding how much things really do (or don't) sell for. Nice bass at a fair price I thought. There is also a near identical 5-string stage 1 currently listed, located in Poland - started off at £2000 now £1600. Interesting that 4-string streamers command a higher price than 5s (not so Dolphins). Once I've struggled with one for a few months I may realise why 😀 Thanks for the advice anyway.

Says someone who recently sold a 4-string version for £1350 (or thereabouts) 🙂 . Happen a. You're right b. He's rejecting sensible offers.

Gut core I can imagine won't like alcohol, but steel? ? I wonder what the mechanism would be ... shall ask the metallurgist at work. Or maybe d'Addario do a nice line in profitable cleaning agents ....

Mine was £820 in 1999, seemed an expensive luxury at the time!

This https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Warwick-Streamer-Stage-1-NT-5-String-Bass-Guitar-/132890079611?nav=SEARCH Has been on eBay for weeks and weeks. It runs for a week, fails to sell and is then immediately relisted. A shipping option was added, then the buy now price went up,(!) But still it never sells. I've seen several steamers come and go for the same price or more whilst this one languishes. What's wrong with it?

And the stripped back Wal body sans pickups, bridge, tronics ( and painted finish) that was on eBay the other week. Buying a Wal AND a CT only to trash one and damage the other seems an expensive waste of time to !e.

Vodka. Works fine. But someone here advised me to keep it off the fingerboard ( dries the wood out apparently), proper turpentine or lemon oil less risky if drying out is a concern.

Good points. Ta. I guess the other thing is that the EQ on a particular bass should be matched to that bass's characteristics, whereas the amp EQ maybe a bit too generic ... ... my old Trace GP12SMX aside, which had treble boost, bass boost, two pre-shapes, two compressors and 12 channels of EQ ... causing many wasted hours pushing knobs and sliders around. There is much to be said for having only the controls you need and messing with as few of them as possible!

Why's that? Unless you have separate EQs or filters for each pickup ... can't you just do all the tone adjustment on the amp? Or turn down the bass and treble and increase the volume on the bass? Or do you find you are changing the amount of mids whilst playing? I only ask as none of my basses have a mid EQ (though 2 of 3 have a filter per pickup) - I do find I'm biasing the pickup balance towards the bridge more (which maybe also boosts mids) as the evening goes on and people play louder .... and I still want to hear what I'm playing! ... and don't some Rays also have a piezo pickup?

" fret clatter and every other unwanted noise" ........indeed I actually meant to say I have Elixir (nanoweb) acoustic bass strings (not Elites). I'm not that enamored with them tbh, the nanowebby stuff comes off in little tendrils and the sound is (whilst better than the bronze things that came on the bass) not exactly subtle or very loud. But there is not much available unless you go to electric bass strings instead and I wondered if the tension in those might break the guitar. I guess there is a limit to what you can get out of an acoustic bass guitar (especially a factory made one) so probably shouldn't get that hopeful!

I've got a Tanglewood "Rosewood Reserve" got it off ebay for about £300. I tried whatever I could find in shops and liked the Tanglewoods better than anything else I could find. The Fender kingman was nice to play (had a jazz bass neck) but it was very quiet without an amp and suffered neck dive (big headstock, small body). Back in the dim and distant I tried a proper American Ovation (the model with the traditional round sound hole) and that was very nice played acoustic; also an Ovation "Celebrity" that was nice amplified but otherwise rather "thin" sounding. Why? Home noodling, folk sessions where they turn up their noses at anything electric, much much more portable than a double bass (and you can sit down in the pub whilst playing it). BUT: it IS quiet, a couple of guitars and a fiddle or two and you may as well not be playing .. so I hide a pjb flightcase under the table and boost it a bit ;¬) still sounds acoustic and some people don't even twig there's an amp there. NB regarding strings, do I gather that people are just using electric bass strings on their acoustics? I've been using elite acoustic bass strings .. and they are not great.

I remember seeing those pro1 re-issues for sale in the 80s at around £250! But apart from the post above, also check my photo of the side of my definitely mahogany wal on the face book page. Totally different texture and grain. I wonder if it was all stained brown and someone sanded the surfaces off. Someone is just going to have to buy it and find out!!! (Not me, I could get all kind of lovely active basses for that money! Suprised one of our state side buddies hasn't snapped it up as a collectable rarity all the same.)

No one in the world (not since 1979 anyway) needs a thumb rest bolted to ANY bass ... let alone to a WAL!!! Well spotted that man (@dyerseve). What it IS is an ash slab body stained up (very neatly indeed) so that the bass looks like a light wood faced mahogany Custom (aka Mk1). Doubt he'll get £2500 for it in this country - you can get all kinds of lovely bass stuff for that money.

... Which is a perfect statement of my orchestral double bass technique. ( only kidding .... Maybe)😀😁

It does yes. But the pro 1 passives were usually a slab of ash, sometimes with a face wood. Odd to put an ash face on a mahogany body then. The close up photos look mahogany colour but the grain is wrong. Any ways, every wal is unique and if it IS a mahogany core, it's strange, unusual and collectable. Qualifies well for this forum!

Its just a small double bass. Rather nice to play I should think. One for the authentic classical performance people methinks rather than the rockabilly slappy brigade!

This was on the wal facebook page a bit ago. Didn't sell. The seller wasn't sure what its made of .. looks like mahogany with ash facings, but more likely solid ash with stained edges. It is a tad expensive for a single pickup passive bass, with an unshaped body, but the neck is the same as that on a full blown MK1 / custom, so worth £1600 in itself ! That thumb rest has to go tho.

Well it's a fix and you got a pre for a good price. Result! Still a mystery why it didn't work without ...

Good point One thing the PJB amps lack is notch and low pass filtering. It's not been an issue for me, but then tweaking the position and clamp force of the realist sound clamp modifies the sound a lot on its own; which isn't an option with a Shadow or Underwood wing pickup. The input impedance of the flightcase is 4MOhm; the EDB-2 gives a choice of 1, 5 or >20MOhm; I've heard 4-5MOhm is about right for most piezo pickups, but more impedance will increase the volume a bit. Still, the underwood should still work, volume-wise, into 4MOhm.

I also have a PJB flightcase for my double bass and electric. My pickup is a realist sound clamp, but I also have a shadow "slot into the bridge" type which is similar to an Underwood (though less good I'm told). With the amps gain switch to passive, I have its gain knob to about 50%-75% and it is fine with either pickup (the realist has a volume control and I have that to a bout 75% too). However, I found that one of my leads had a small fault in it which doesn't affect the active electric basses but severely attenuates the output of the high impedance piezo pickup (I haven't found the fault yet - it's just that lead doesn't work with the realist), the result being that I can't get a high enough input into the flightcase - even with max gain the red lamp won't flicker. What I'm saying is, are you sure your lead is OK. Try some different leads. Failing that, see if you can borrow someone else's pickup - or someone else's amp and try the pickup into that. The flightcase is a great amp for double basses and its input impedance is nice and high, it should work with any working piezo pickup and lead combination and without any pre-amp. I've only tried a pre-amp once and a) it didn't improve the sound b) it was an extra thing in the chain to stop working (flat batteries in the case of that one). Incidentally, I have never used the "active" input switch on the PJB - even my 9V active basses can't make enough input for that. I conclude that they do like a nice fat input voltage and that the "active" input is probably for active basses with two batteries (ie the 18V ones), also I think mine sounds nicer if the red input lamp is just on the point of flashing - ie it also wants a big output from the input stage into the EQ too. PS: I presume you're in Yorkshire - but if that's South Yorkshire you could always drop down to Derby and try swapping around with my near identical kit.

Saving my ring finger for when I get up into thumb, 1 2 3 territory .. ;¬)

Oh, to answer the. Op's original question ..... When I DO use simandl, finger no 3 just rests on the string mid way between 2 & 4. Don't think it matters.

Im just an old stuck in the mud. For me a "proper" Warwick is sculpted heavy wood ( ovangkol, bubinga, boire) with a through neck, oddly angled pickups maybe and a clear sound thatuts through. Thumbs, dolphins & streamer stage X. 🙂 Spot the real one ( the home build is pretty good, but still don't sound quite like a Warwick .. I blame the bolt on neck and one piece bridge 😉 ) Maybe need to move on a bit. Joe, meanwhile, always sounded great playing anything.