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6v6

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Everything posted by 6v6

  1. Personally I wouldn't use a kick drum mic on a bass cab - they've often got a baked-in frequency response that's optimized for kick drum that doesn't translate well to bass. I've got a Shure beta 52a that I have tried, and the results were wooly and indistinct - I got much better results with a SM57 close mic'd, blended with a DI from the amp.
  2. Great job, you must be very pleased, and I'm sure the new owner will be also! It's impressive how you managed to keep the momentum and get this done in (relative to my projects!) quite a reasonable time.
  3. I think you may need one of the pickups to be reverse wound and reverse magnetic polarity if you want them to act like a humbucker when wired in series: http://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/the-tone-garage/pickup-polarity-and-phase-made-simple
  4. [quote name='3below' timestamp='1460151132' post='3023203'] The other way to get a good circular hole with the router is to use a circle cutting jig. You may also have some extension bars that came with the router. I use these and screw the bars / jig to the centre of the speaker hole. Works really well. Similar picture here [url="http://web.stanford.edu/group/stanfordtaiko/manual/images/circle_routing_jig_2.jpg"]http://web.stanford....uting_jig_2.jpg[/url] [/quote] Nice, I bodged my router onto a scrap of hardboard which served the same purpose!
  5. [quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1459370552' post='3015981'] Anyone else interested? [/quote] I'd probably be interested in one more so I can make a second cab
  6. [quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1459323672' post='3015366'] In addition you'll have a c**p vocal sound because all that noise will be bleeding through your vocal mics. [/quote] The guitarists would also sound way better going through a 20watt valve amp and letting it cook a bit - it took me years to learn this carting around inappropriate 50w+ amps to pub gigs (yes, I am a reformed guitarist!). It still makes me cringe when I see pub bands with a widdling guitarist cranking their Fender Twin or whatever to get "their sound" - it's all you can hear and it ruins the balance of the band, a 15w Deluxe reverb would fix the problem instantly IME. Anyway, good luck!
  7. New kit is always fun but your guitarists do sound way too loud IMHO if they've drowning out the drums (the amps should all match the drums in volume, PA is what gets louder in large venues, not the on stage sound) On topic Andertons stock markbass, I've been happy with my LM3 so worth a try, even with a single 1x12 it's ample for most pub gigs.
  8. Looks great! FWIW I agree re the pickguard, but it's a real personal taste thing - I myself would prefer no guard at all, but I can appreciate the desire to do something different!
  9. +1 for lmc audio, I got mine delivered in only a few days. That was a year ago tho so I'd give them a call to confirm, they were helpful when I spoke with them.
  10. [quote name='fleabag' timestamp='1457690505' post='3000945'] If a thumb pick is too awkward ( you wont know till you try one ) and you find you need to use a regular pick that you have to grip, then hows about putting some double sided tape on it ? [/quote] Personally I find a thumb pick *much* more awkward than a normal plectrum. I have to admit, I'm a converted guitarist so I find using a plectrum pretty natural, but I'd just suggest getting a medium weight pick and not gripping it too tight - I use the dark grey jim dunlop ones, but it's a personal preference thing. I also switch between pick and fingers depending on song - some stuff (particularly some pop songs) just don't sound right played with fingers, and vice-versa on a lot of other stuff. If you can get past the pick/fingers and guitar/bass philosophical debates learning a bit of 6-string guitar is actually a brilliant way to develop some finesse with a pick IMO and the technique translates well to bass.
  11. 6v6

    DIY Effects

    [quote name='Kiwi' timestamp='1457530240' post='2999388'] Any thoughts on Hammerite? [url="http://www.hammerite.co.uk/products/direct_to_rust_metal_paint_aerosol_smooth_finish.jsp"]http://www.hammerite...ooth_finish.jsp[/url] I used to specify it for fence railings and other outdoor metal fixtures. [/quote] I thought it was mostly meant for steel, but I see they do a version which is supposed to work on galvanized steel and aluminium now. Not used it for years to be honest, mostly because it's difficult if you ever want to overcoat it (you can't repaint with Hammerite or anything else unless you strip everything right off IIRC), it's kinda funny stuff compared to normal paints, but I guess it may work OK.
  12. 6v6

    DIY Effects

    [quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1456580215' post='2990445'] What primer do you use? [/quote] I've painted a couple of boxes with this from Halfords and it works OK: http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/primer/halfords-bodyshop-primer-grey-500ml Not the best time of year for spraying things, but next time I do some I'll probably try a proper etch primer (although the one above says on the tin an etch primer isn't required, so I'm not sure if it has etching properties, I had it on-hand from another job): http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/fillers-preparation/u-pol-acid-8-etch-primer
  13. What speaker are you using with it? Personally I would probably modify the amp, but if you're not comfortable with amps and high-voltage electronics that could be dangerous, whereas switching to a different speaker with less treble response and a lower efficiency would be a safe way to reduce the treble and volume. Unless they're faulty or worn out, changing tubes is a subtle business, and even if you substitute e.g a lower gain preamp tube there's a good chance the frequency response will be similar (because it's mostly a product of the internal circuit design).
  14. Inside a bass CTS or Alpha are perfectly fine IMO, you could pay more for something slightly more fancy, but then take a look inside your FX pedals and amp - all of the pots there are either equivalent or worse than CTS/Alpha IME.
  15. Tom Petty, e.g on the Travelling Willburies and some other stuff.
  16. Very impressive work, thanks for sharing! Out of interest, how did you make the radius dish? The only method I can think of is a router on an enormous pivot or dangled from a piece of rope (what could possibly go wrong! ) The wood grain on the back looks really nice, I bet that will pop out and look amazing when it's got finish on it
  17. [quote name='tommorichards' timestamp='1454970883' post='2974766'] I think when doing a bit of wood that small, by hand is the best option. When i made a wooden purpleheart bridge, even filing hard made some parts come off. Nice and steady now. [/quote] Not that I'm an expert, but the way I'd probably do it is make an undersized template, then use a guide bush and a very small (e.g 3-4mm) straight cutter and cut almost all the way through, then cut the slot, then cut the last mm or so with a small saw or knife, finishing up with a sanding block. Unfortunately I've had similar experiences with larger bearing cutters and small pieces, resulting in them catching and getting destroyed, or worse getting snagged and launched like a small wooden projectile Excellent build, thanks for sharing!
  18. I faced the same dilemma and FWIW I went for the LM3, although IIRC the difference was more than £50 when I was buying. I'm more than happy, I just add a pedal (a BDI21 sansamp clone) occasionally if I want a bit of grit/warmth (mostly not needed for my style, I find rolling off the treble is all I really need to warm things up on a P bass). I think you're right to go new - although they're supposed to be pretty reliable, I had mine fail (spectacularly, plumes of smoke from melted power-amp!) at just over a year old - after a bit of a debate with the retailer I got it repaired for free, but I'm glad it wasn't used as it needed a whole new power amp module. Where do they say it's a three year warranty? The retailer was trying to tell me it was a year and claimed it was a goodwill thing at about 15 months old, but maybe I should have contacted MarkBass directly.
  19. This is very interesting, thanks for sharing!
  20. Looks very nice indeed! Care to share any more details on your finishing process? I've sprayed guitars with both poly and nitro in the past (with a proper compressor/spray gun) and the finish you've achieved is easily as good if not better - no mean feat given the time of year! I've got a bass to refinish and there's no chance I'll even attempt it before about June when it warms up because I also have to work outside or in a cold shed!
  21. You seem to have discounted Mark Bass for unspecified reasons, but FWIW I play blues/rock with a LM3 and it works very well. It's not as coloured as some heads, but one thing worth considering is it's easy to add a pedal if you need more grit/warmth/colouration, but it's generally hard to remove if you get a heavily voiced amp with that tone built in.
  22. I'd probably just tape the sliders down with some insulating tape (not gaffa tape, it'll leave a mess) Alternatively get a piece of polystyrene or hard foam (old mouse mat?) and clamp it on top of the sliders with a large elastic band?
  23. FWIW I went through the same process with my 1x12 DIY build (using a Beyma SM212 driver), and settled on the 50Hz tuning. I started out w/50Hz, then tried 40Hz tuning (shelf port where I can add/remove an extension piece) - after gigging both I decided the reduction in power handling at 40Hz using a single cab wasn't ideal, and it pulled some of the guts out of the sound, e.g turns out I prefer the response not completely flat. Worth trying both tho, as it's quite a subtle difference.
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