Alien

Once you get over about 100 Watts, power becomes pretty well irrelevant. Most bass/PA cabs get the majority of their volume under 100W. To go twice as loud you'd need to put 1000 Watts through the cab, which would most likely cook it anyway. A reasonably capable gigging amp, when played at quietish 'living room' volume (ie so you can talk over it without raising your voice) which is around 80dB, is putting as much power into the LED on the front panel as it is into the speaker! A

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='513272' date='Jun 14 2009, 01:03 PM']That's the sort of thing I'm after. Those BFMs? Totally don't have the workspace for making stuff, but were up there in the considering.[/quote] Yup. They're Tuba 36 subs. That little stack should be good for around 150dB @ 40Hz if loaded with 3015LFs. And no, they aren't mine (more's the pity) A

This should do you... [attachment=27016:BIG_bass.jpg] A

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='501642' date='May 30 2009, 02:24 PM']Ifs its dual power amps like a Little Giant, then one will be running at 8 and one at 4, with the three cabs, so would be unblalanced.[/quote] It wouldn't make any difference in the real world - the cab that's on the channel by itself might be 1-2 dB louder, which is about the smallest change you'd notice, even if you have good ears. As an example, my Hartke would run a pair of cabs at 175 watts each, and the single at 240 watts - a difference of less than 1.5 dB. A

It'll be touch and go - I've just measured one of mine at 47mm on the nail. There's a little bit of give in the foam, so you'll probably be OK, but you didn't get that from me A

[quote name='ben604' post='492155' date='May 19 2009, 10:06 AM']Hello Alien, If the OP isnt interested, I might be! Cheers, Ben.[/quote] No worries Ben. Andy

If you're really on a budget, I've got an as-new Behringer EP1500 up for sale at £100 A

Anyone seen one of these in the flesh yet? 500 watts @ 4 Ohms, 6.4 lbs weight. [url="http://www.ibanez.com/site/id/2642/promethean/index.html#1"]http://www.ibanez.com/site/id/2642/promethean/index.html#1[/url] Thomann has them in stock already [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/ibanez_p500_promethean.htm"]Head[/url] [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/ibanez_p5110_promethean.htm"]Combo[/url] [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/ibanez_p110c_promethean.htm"]Extension Cab[/url] Here's a youtube link A

[quote name='bassace' post='483302' date='May 8 2009, 08:57 PM']Some will and some won't. Trouble is at this early stage you won't know which ones until you play it.[/quote] This was pretty much what led me to start this whole process. I've seen a load of things on amps that I'd never use, and seen a lot of amps that made me think 'If only they'd thought to fit [i]X[/i]'. Mainly I'm designing this for me, but having a few more ideas never hurts - especially as I have the luxury of being able to ignore as many or as few as I choose A

Some good ideas so far, some doable, others way beyond the scope of what I'm doing. Keep 'em coming A

I'm part way through designing a preamp. Some of the features will be original, some based on stuff I've liked in other amps. The idea is to use this to front a light weight power amp. Here's what I've got so far: Gain control features 'traffic light' signal strength indicator and a pad switch for active/passive (which might yet be removed) EQ features Bass & Treble shelving controls, with 3 sweepable Mids, +/- 15dB (or maybe just 12, not fully decided yet) on all controls. Each Mid band will have a swept range of around 3 Octaves, and will cross over each other by about 1 Octave. The frequency controls will also feature a pull switch to alter the bandwidth (Q) of each of the mid bands. So, my question to you is this; What other features would you like to see fitted? DI out? Crossover? FX loops? Let me have it! A

[quote name='Matty' post='479492' date='May 4 2009, 10:34 PM']Sounds cool. My one as of twenty minutes ago, just need to patch it all together now. Signal flow is going to be: Bass/Keys-> OC-2 -> Ibanez Phat Hed -> Bass Big Muff-> LS-2-> Volume -> Behringer delay -> Behringer Trem-> LS-2 loop A: Graphic EQ. LS-2 Loop B: Battered old US Big muff -> XP-100 -> Sinister Analog Soul Provider -> Micro POG -> FunkBox -> Small Stone -> MicroMetalMuff -> Volume. edit: god, that picture quality is apalling![/quote] And what's the Stylophone do for your sound? A

1/2" ply is plenty strong enough. It'll need bracing to stop vibrations but that's true of any thickness pretty much. Birch ply is very stiff and hard but quite heavy, Spruce is lighter but not as tough. Use Birch if you want a painted finish, but Spruce is fine for carpet or Tolex. A

[quote name='Pookus' post='477719' date='May 2 2009, 02:31 PM']I am putting together two 4x10 cabs each housing four 150w 8ohm speakers each cab will be 600w @ 8ohms and daisy chained to make 1200w @ 4ohms. I'm looking at the smallest possible cabinet dimensions and dont mind ports. Please help with ingenius ideas. Thanks.[/quote] What speakers are you using? Not all 10's are born equal, and some need a huge cab to work properly. Also, what sort of sound are you after? If it's a big dubby noise then you'll need big boxes or a sh!tload of watts, whereas a mid-biased grindy tone will come out of a much smaller cab. A

Can't really offer much help other than to say that these amps were made by Aria - might be worth getting in touch with them. Aria UK Limited Unit 2a Henley Business Park Pirbright Road Normandy Guildford GU3 2DX Tel: + 44 (0)1483 238720 Fax: + 44 (0)1483 238721 email: [email protected] The look of the speakers make me think they might be made by Audax, but it's almost impossible to make an identification just by looking. A

[quote name='steve-soar' post='476316' date='Apr 30 2009, 07:16 PM']Get some gaffer tape on it, ya big jessie. Or get some "Kitty Mitts"[/quote] Gaffer tape - that'll teach the little buggers for scratching, specially when you yank it off and take a load of tabby fluff with it and they go running off down the garden... oh. Ah. I see. You meant put the tape on the cab didn't you? A

Connect all the signal grounds together and you'll be OK. As long as you use a metal case to build the thing in then the star washers that come with the jacks should do a good enough job - a lot of pedals are built that way. A

[quote name='slobluesine' post='466688' date='Apr 19 2009, 12:52 PM']how does it all work with PA rigs then? all PA systems have seperate LF cabs,[/quote] Not if the soundman knows his stuff. You get more output for the same power if all the subs are in one place, and you reduce the comb filter effect, where you get bass hotspots (and coldspots) throughout the venue. A

Johnette Napolitano for both vocals and bass. Love this one. A

[quote name='steve-soar' post='461610' date='Apr 13 2009, 09:49 PM']Which is better, Barefaced Big one, or an AccuGrove Tri115L, only one way to find out.....FIGHT. [/quote] My money's on Alex - any company that can come up with utter sh!te like the Accuswitch has to be at best pretty suspect. That plot of the Big One is as close to perfect as you're likely to see this side of a pretty expensive hi-fi. A

If you're looking to power the whole thing off a 12V battery, why use a 240V amp? You get losses in the inverter, and then more losses in the power stage of the amp. Why not use a preamp pedal and a small car amp? Something like [url="http://www.pioneer.co.uk/uk/products/25/29/182/GM-3300T/specs.html"][b]this amp[/b][/url] would give you 150W into 4 Ohms continuous, and would draw 15 amps maximum. You'd want a 30 AH battery to play for 2 hours, which is pretty small as deep-discharge batteries go. A

[quote name='JD1' post='449191' date='Mar 30 2009, 08:17 AM']Bill - Slightly off topic so apologies, but why were the VL's so power hungry? I had a VL110 and 210 and you really needed a big amp to drive them.[/quote] Hoffmanns Law says that you can't have a small cab that goes low and is efficient. You can, however, have two of the three, so EA traded efficiency to get small size and deep bass. This needs more power for a given volume, but watts are pretty cheap these days. A