blablas

Due to the cross-wise glued wood grain of the separate layers I don't think it gives more strength, I primarily put it there for aesthetics.

Minimal progress. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/AZJz0Em.jpg[/IMG] Glued the wood for the neck and made half of the scarf joint. Haven't been in the mood to do much work on this project the last couple of weeks, partly due to this little in-between project. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/LGUwNRY.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/DmQqbeN.jpg[/IMG] A new maple-fingerboard neck for my G&L L-2000 Tribute, needed work on the fret ends, also did some crowning and polishing on the frets and now it's oiled with Danish oil.

Andy McCluskey of Orchestral Manoeuvres in the Dark plays right handed upside down! I always wondered why, it's not logical for a right handed player to do this.

This one was delivered at my doorstep last Friday.

Today this one arrived at my doorstep. Warwick ProSerie Corvette Std 6 FL And I already owned this one for a longer time. Warwick-Rockbass Corvette Put a Warwick two piece bridge on it and put in an old 2-band BassTec preamp.

[b]And one more...[/b] Today this one arrived at my doorstep. Warwick ProSerie Corvette Std 6 FL Ever since I build me a fretless six string a couple of years back, on which I was just not able to play decently due to it having a 35 inch scale, I wanted a fretless sixer. I'm able to play fretless fairly well on a 34" and have been doubting for a long time to build me a new one but with a 34"scale, when all of a sudden these Warwick basses came by at Thomann (big German music store) at a very nice price, roughly about the same as it wold cost me in materials and parts, I did not need to think very long and just bought me one. For the time being I'm done buying!! [size=1](I hope)[/size]

In between my normal work I made myself a small handy fret wire bender today. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/AktKTfK.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/AqyhNQw.jpg[/IMG] Since I'm going to use stainless steel fret wire for this current build, which is lot more difficult to work on than the standard copper-nickel alloy, I decided it would be nice to have the fret wire already in the right shape before hammering them in. The better the shape is beforehand, the easier it will be during leveling and crowning.

Not yet, I'm to lazy and it takes too much time before I'm happy with the result, maybe someday but not for the time being. At the moment I only build them for myself not for an audience or a customer so why would I really bother with spending all that time on making a demo.

These only give less clutter at the side of the headstock and more on the top and back. Like I said before I'm fine with what I already designed.

I prefer the look of the cluttered headstock over this "oh, we need more tuners" solution. I've given it some thought if I could use headless bridge tuners but that still meant I needed to anchor the strings at the headstock side. I like the headstock as I designed it now.

Done the rough sawing of all the wood for the neck. Top of the picture will be the neck itself: wenge - 3 ply birch - padauk - 3 ply birch - wenge. Middle, the fingerboard: padauk. Bottom, headstock: Merbau with a rosewood top (the top is a leftover from the top of the body).

New toy! A lot of bass for a very nice price.

A simple and basic Tribute L-2000... but it's mine. You get a lot of bass for a very nice price. Good affordable lefty basses are rare, but this is one of them.

No real progress to report on this build, a few weeks ago my server computer crashed on me and since that time I've been busy with tuning and filling a new main computer, and after that setting up my old main computer as the new server computer. Everything is working as I want now and no data was lost during this accident, the build will resume soon. Last week I've been busy with fabricating some new pickguards for several of my basses. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/vlDMzUT.jpg[/IMG] For my F(ake)ender Jazz V. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/IT8vfvR.jpg[/IMG] For my OLP MM2. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/qyz2gHR.jpg[/IMG] And one for my Squier Precision. A detail shot of the last one. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/jcGnHOb.jpg[/IMG]

A blank with this pattern. Bought a plate with this pattern in China, through E-bay, for such a low price that I won't even bother on how to make this pattern myself.

Made myself a few the last couple of days.

Practice makes perfect. And I am educated in making stuff, it's not something you learn by trail and error alone.

And today, for the time being, I've made my last pickguard, mint green for my Squier Precision. Almost boringly traditional, but somehow I like it. Detail shot for chamfered edge. That's how it should be done.

Made another pickguard today, This one is for my OLP MM2. It's not really a job I like to do, if you want to do it right it is rather time consuming and boring to make one. However, it's a nice simple way to get a instrument with a different look and in the end it is worth the effort.

[quote name='blablas' timestamp='1397148928' post='2421216']For the pickguards I'm still undecided which I like more: This one. Or this one. [/quote] And this is the one I made for it yesterday.

[quote name='blablas' timestamp='1399247699' post='2442500'] My lefty F(ake)ender Jazz V. Fender or Squier don't make them so a fake will have to do. [/quote] And made a new pickguard for it yesterday.

My lefty F(ake)ender Jazz Bass V twins.

Looking good! Now it needs more shine.

F(ake)ender Jazz Bass V lefty: Before. And after. Modification under the hood, a proper grounding and shielding job. A fake will have to do, Fender or Squier don't make lefty 5 strings.

And the final modification is in place, a tort pickguard. The gold colored one was not bad but this is what I had in mind when I started working on it.