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geoffbyrne

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Everything posted by geoffbyrne

  1. [quote name='geoffbyrne' post='384728' date='Jan 19 2009, 10:04 AM']Thanks for the words. G.[/quote] Bump!
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  3. [quote name='geoffbyrne' post='385156' date='Jan 19 2009, 05:11 PM']PM'd back. G.[/quote] Bought & paid for. Thank you Sir! G.
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  5. [quote name='vmaxblues' post='385142' date='Jan 19 2009, 04:48 PM']pm'd[/quote] PM'd back. G.
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  7. [quote name='geoffbyrne' post='383313' date='Jan 17 2009, 03:49 PM']Loughborough, but I drive past Bristol about every 6 weeks . G.[/quote] Open to sensible offers. G.
  8. [quote name='budget bassist' post='383558' date='Jan 17 2009, 09:05 PM']I'm trying hard not to dig into my pockets right now! I'm trying to save for a bongo but i'm a sucker for old neck thru japcrap! Good luck with the sale matey, it looks lovely![/quote] Thanks for the words. G.
  9. [quote name='Bassassin' post='384219' date='Jan 18 2009, 06:21 PM']The 6-bolt plate is not a 100% ID - Moridaira did use them, particularly on early instruments, but you'd need a headstock with a known Mori brand for a full ID. Morris is Moridaira's house brand, and they also built the Japanese Hohners in the late 70s and early 80s, but these confuse the issue by having either plain 4-hole plates, or MIJ-stamped 4-hole plates. It's believed the early Japanese CMIs with 6-hole plates are Moridaira - although that might just be an assumption based on the plate. Moridaira's also annoying for frequently using unbranded/unmarked components. And yes - JapCrap is all this confusing! Mostly... A 6-hole Mori plate will (probably) say MIJ - however, the Kay Precisions like this one: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kay-P-Bass-Precision-style-guitar-70s-vintage_W0QQitemZ180321547827"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kay-P-Bass-Precision...emZ180321547827[/url] ...have a blank 6-hole plate. These are very common, and the necks (hefty great things made of strip-ply) are probably their worst feature. These were Taiwanese in origin, don't know what timber was used for the body but they're very, very heavy. The upshot is really that although Moridaira did use the 6-hole plate, other builders did too, & it's likely they weren't the only Jap factory to use them. Really in JapCrap you need a brand with a known provenance (like Antoria, for example) or an exact comparison with a known branded instrument to be 100% certain of ID. J.[/quote] Thanks for that. Now. Anyone like to buy it? Geoff
  10. [quote name='Bassassin' post='383837' date='Jan 18 2009, 11:30 AM']Agreed - if it was a maple board I'd have a hard time resisting, despite the fact I need another P like I need an extra scrotum. The body might be from an early Kay - not a bad thing because the massive slab sarnie bodies on these were the best thing about them. If the neckplate's plain (no MIJ) it probably is a Kay. To be honest Geoff, all the Japanese factories used the sandwich construction technique in their mid-range instruments, you really can't ID a Mori specifically from that. Anyway, the neck's what it says it is - Antoria was built by Fujigen at this point, & the 70s Antorias were identical to their Ibanez counterparts, down to the serial numbers. This is useful because we can ID & date the neck like this: [url="http://www.ibanez.ru/info/catalog/1971/13.jpg"]1971 Ibby catalogue[/url] That's it on the right, later versions had full-size tuners & smaller, white plastic TRCs. You can tell the Antoria had the larger style from the channel size &screwhole positioning so I'd say it's reasonable to infer it's from around '71 or '72. Jon.[/quote] Thanks for the info, Jon. I was told in the Ibanez forum that the 6-bolt neck plate identified it as Moridaira factory. Any info on that? Apart fro one or two minor dints, the neck is really nice. Geoff
  11. [quote name='Kev' post='383308' date='Jan 17 2009, 03:45 PM']where are you mate??[/quote] Loughborough, but I drive past Bristol about every 6 weeks . G.
  12. I bought this as being an Antoria. later, research showed that the 6 bolt neck plate and the horizontally-split 2 piece pancake body might be indicative of the construction used by other Japanese factories in the late 60's & early 70's. When I got it it had suffered the dreaded Halfords Spray-can finish. Chemical stripping of this revealed that at least half of the poly had not been removed. Much elbow grease and Tung Oil later, the body below was revealed. I like this neck - it's a shallow 'C', straight and plays very well. The pickup is good, and I fitted different pots. I've done a gig with this bass and it was more than Good Enough. £65 ono Geoff
  13. Neck through Hondo Pro or Satellite P bass. Previous owner has given the headstock a coat of black paint and I currently don't feel like stripping it as this would likely remove any transfer left under it. It demonstrates much mojo - many dents and scrapes, but nothing major. Neck shows plenty of wear, but there's plenty of fret left. The action is very good and the bass plays pretty well indeed. The neck is best described as a deeper 'D' rather than a shallow 'C'. Originals of these had DiMarzio pickups, but I don't think this is one - it sounds more than OK, though. I think the pots may still be original. The volume pot is fine, but the tone pot is a little iffy. The worst point is that some imbecile pre-owner has reamed the hex socket in the truss rod nut and I can't adjust it. Having said that, the action is low and excellent and, I believe, stable. I'll include another truss rod nut if buyer can extract the original. £65 ono Geoff
  14. This is a VP700 Series Double P Bass with set maple neck, ash body wings round maple & walnut and was defretted by a previous owner. I bought it as a stripped carcase and have installed 2 x GB P bass pickups (10K) with CTS pots & switch. The 3 point bridge was gone & beautifully filled when I got it - I found a massive brass (8 string) bridge & fitted it along with a brass nut. This gives great sustain & tone. The bass remains passive. I've played full gigs with this instrument twice and it played very well. The pups are each side of where a standard P would be, so the neck is slightly bassier, and, interestingly, the bridge pup is very close to where an MM Stingray pup would be. This is a very punchy pickup. Both together, there is some phase cancellation of certain frequencies, giving a very smooth tone. Considering the work & costs involved in bringing this back from the dead, I'd like in the region of £100, or would swap for a baritone (longer scale the better) or a reasonable 2x10 cab. Geoff
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  17. Is it just me, or are the tuner base-plates actually overlapping? G.
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  19. Our drummer uses an electronic kit through the PA, so we turn him down to balance!!! G.
  20. About bloody time too!!!! Welcome!! Geoff
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  22. I have an Ibanez RD605 which is S/MM. The MM is a ceramic Seymour Duncan. I also have the identical pickup in the drawer, and I'd rather it was on the bass(!!!). I also have the template for the route. However. I do not trust myself to cut into a fairly pristine instrument - I really haven't done much routing at all. I'm chicken! If there's anyone nearby with good in their heart, or for a small fee, feels competent to do this for me, I'd be very much obliged. Geoff
  23. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Headless-Electric-Bass-Guitar-Hardware-Set-Project_W0QQitemZ120360207315QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Guitar_Accessories?hash=item120360207315&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1298|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Headless-Electric-Ba...%3A1|240%3A1318[/url] G.
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