la bam

Well...... finally got to give my ctm300 valve amp a blast tonight in a socially distanced out of restrictions rehersal. And @walshy you were right! It really was fantastic. I'm now keeping it for good. I found it likes to be loud and pushed. The louder you turn the volume knob the better it plays and sounds, rather than just going louder for the sake of it. It's definitely NOT the same sound as a class d or class a/b sound. It's like a chorus of bass coming from one speaker. Completely different feel. No 'just' bass sitting in the mix. More bass on Ready Brek. Bass with a nice warm glow. Worked really well with Indie stuff. The more confident I played the better it responded. The EQ doesnt do a great deal but even Mark Gooday says that. It just fits. Nice. Even the drummer commented it sounded lovely! Never had that before. Ever! So, yep, add me to the list of bassists still playing a valve amp.

As above, wireless really helps, but also talking to your drummer. If its loud to you and he is struggling to hear, try angling towards him (or others) and see what they think. Also, and this sounds daft, but everyone has done it before, make sure your not stood directly infront of your speaker (like inches away) blocking all the sound from coming out. Humans make excellent sound blockers! Failing that, eq is king. Itll take some time to work out what's what, but I'd be tempted to ignore the 'bass' end of things and concentrate on finding the 'mid' spaces. I imagine big brass sections etc really fill the low end. Dont compete, find your own space and take it from there. Good luck.

I used to rip them off. Tidy all the loose skin up and treat them best I could from there. Theyll be a bit sore playing, but ok. Whenever I've left them in the past theyve been painful to play with, popped during the gig and blooded the fret board and strings. And then as they're raw it's more painful to play with.

Cheers! I get to try mine for the first time on wednesday in a new band. I was resigned to losing/selling it, but if I juggle a few things around I'm sure I can make it work.

Have you managed to play yours in tour band setting yet @walshy ? How is it compared to your other gear?

Has anyone played, tried or tested one of these? Theres some very good videos online, but not sure how they translate into real world sound? Or even the new terror bass?

I had one of those - great amp. Simple genius of it being 2 amps in one meant it was extremely versatile and should any valves go, just switch it to fet mode. Regret selling mine.

September by Earth Wind and Fire. Nice build up of highs, miss then pumping lows.

Great minds think alike. ....

The other reason I bought the ashdown is that it has 3 speakon ins. One for 8ohm, one for 4ohm and one for 2ohm. So your options for cabs are pretty limitless. I have a laney n410 (8ohm) which is a brilliant lightweight cab, and now have x2 barefaced two 10s (4/12 ohm switchable), so I could use the laney at 8ohms, or if using the barefaced - one (at 4ohms) or 2 (at 2ohms) depending on the situation. It's an incredibly loud, powerful amp. An 8x10 would be lovely, but a 4x10 more than enough! Even the 2x10 is monstrous.

I know what you mean. I bought it blind so to speak, never having heard one, and its everything you think it would be. It isnt hard to move around as the handles are on the top, so it really isnt bad at all. Sound wise, as it's the 300, it will stay clean as long as you want (gain low, volume high), or if you want it will add valve drive as it has the separate gain knob, as well as volume knob - so you just work them together for the ideal sound. I bought it for the same reasons as yourself - any issues at all Ashdown will sort. My other 2 amps are ashdown too. ..... I'm talking myself into keeping it everytime I mention it!

Well, my ashdown ctm300 is up for sale at a bargain price.

This thread rekindled my valve love. I've just plugged my bass into the valve head and flippin eck .... there really is nothing like playing through valves. Instant Geezer Butler sound straight away. That clarity and grind at the same time. PS does anyone find playing a valve amp after playing a solid state/class d head, that everything is so much faster. Almost to a point that you have to adjust your playing slightly. It feels as if the notes ring out before I've hit them.

I have an Ashdown ctm300. Bought at the start of lockdown. Never used in a band setting yet. I have the opportunity to introduce it into a new band, but I'm in 2 minds. Having never played it in anger, I wont miss it if I dont, but will wonder what it would have sounded like. My current aim is to use the abm600 due to weight, load ins, etc. But, I'm still undecided.

I had a specracomp. It was very good. However, although its nothing really to set up, I got rid of it because of the extra faff. The markbass evo I has a built in tuner, 2 channels, 12 amp sims, and fx including compression, chorus, drive, envelope etc etc. All fine turntable on your laptop, which then saves to the amp. Really is an all in one solution if that's what you're after.

Markbass evo 1. Superb compressor and completely configurable on pc.

The 'feel' is the sound you're getting from the amp and drum kit, coming together in unison and all the dynamics involved. It's the same difference as hearing the band through the pa etc as an audience member, and being an audience member listening with headphones instead of hearing the band through a PA, amp or cabs.

I still think there is. I find that having an amp and a physical sound on stage from every instrument really helps bring out the best in the band. You feel the music. Locking in with the drums and driving the drummer, bringing out the best in them is a great feeling. I went down the in ears route. Temporarily. I just couldnt get it. It was like going through the motions for me. Although in fairness the in ear monitoring was poor.

Hi, yes it gives it full protection when stored or in transit. You would take the cover off when it situ for playing. The feet wont push through, they are nowhere near protruding enough or strong enough to break the padding. The reason I asked if they could do anything is that with the exposed side in transit (say, in a band van, or trailer etc or when someone is loading or unloading) someone could push it into a metal rough edged case, or it could get nicked with a case clasp etc. If the exposed side was damaged it would mean if you used the 210 on it's own vertically (it also has feet for this) or stacked x2 cabs vertically as some players do, that side would be on display. Ie it wouldnt always be used as the bottom of the cab and unseen.

Hi all, Hope we are all well. Just a heads up if anyone is interested.... I was after a padded cover for my barefaced retro 210 cab. I always use hotcovers. I've always found them superb quality, protection and well priced. However, with the 210 the cab can be used horizontally or vertically, so if you imagine the cab lying horizontal the floor side is exposed in a normal lift off cover. This same side would be a tall side if used vertically and would be exposed to sinks, dents, scratches and rips as it wouldnt be protected. I had a word with Jim at hotcovers, to see if there was anything he could do - and he really excelled! Theyve put a complete under flap on the cover which velcro all the way around, so it has complete protection! All for around £50 a cover. Having had lots of covers from these guys, I really cant recommend them enough. Superb.

I've had tiny lightweight class d, nice weight class a/b and heavy valve stuff. Ive had old school amps and modern amp emulators. And it seems whatever I have at the time, I get swayed to the other in a vicious circle. I've never liked the bespoke, custom build boutique basses, so thatd be quite easy. Probably a bog standard fender precision. So.... my dream rig which I'm trying to get to (over time).... is literally this. "x3 retro two10s barefaced cabs, with the switchable 12/4 ohmage". Then I can use what ever head I want with them, choosing whether to take a 210, 410 or 610 set up. They're so light it wouldnt be an issue setting up a 610 and a 210 would be a one carry load in. And its fit in any car if i didnt have my van. It was always the range of heavy cabs I had to lug around which was the killer. If I changed my amp I'd have to change the cab too to match with it. Big valve amp - big cab. Lightweight amp - lightweight cab. At least in this arrangement the cabs should serve any purpose and not need changing ever! (although I'm sure that's been said before!). The switchable homage between 4 and 12 is a game changer. Head wise, I love my abm600. It's just the right combination of weight and heft for me. I think at around £600 new they're outstanding value. As for outside reality....... those new Ampeg 50th anniversary heads and an 8x10 look good. But would I even contemplate moving one? Nah.