VTypeV4

Rolled up socks? i hadn't considered that.. Ha! I couldn't believe how expensive the genuine re-cone kit is.. Cheapest I could find was just shy of £200 but thankfully Bluearan do the aftermarket one.. I could believe even less the cost of a new 2241, cheapest I've found was £373, most expensive was £741!!!!! I could buy three Celestions for that!

Hey guys, i'm in the process of building a monster PA. I've picked these huge horns up very cheaply from a friend with a view to getting another pair built. They haven't been used for many years hence them being so cheap and whilst one works without fault, one had a bit of a rattle so I thought I'd investigate hoping it might be a loose driver or banging panel. [url="http://s778.photobucket.com/user/VTypeV4/media/BigJBL2_zps7618db0c.jpg.html"][/url] Quick test of both. One on the left works fine so will be re-finished and tidied up before it gets put into service. [url="http://s778.photobucket.com/user/VTypeV4/media/BigJBL1_zps6ae419ba.jpg.html"][/url] This is the faulty one recieving further attention. Please forgive my 'hi-tech' test rig! [url="http://s778.photobucket.com/user/VTypeV4/media/BigJBL3_zps7d638167.jpg.html"][/url] Further inspection found no loose or banging panels but I did find the big, heavy cast frame JBL secured by only three pins and a self tapping screw! The shame of it. On removing the driver I'm really sad to say it has the beginings of a coil rub. My question is [b][i]do you think I'll get away with old trick of dust cap off, little bit of forward voltage applied to the coil, some card shims and light smear of acetone on the spider to re-align it[/i][/b]? On some older Celestions and EVs I've simply removed the magnet and re-aligned them to cure the rub. I can't remove the magnet from the frame on the JBL so thats not an option. I like the JBL and it'd be great if I could get it back into service. An after-market re-cone isn't too bad at £65 but the genuine part is nearly as much as a new Celestion FTR that i've used in this application before. What d'ya think chaps and chapesses?

[quote name='Baxter' timestamp='1372370765' post='2125105'] Nothing special, a BL15-150. I had replaced the crappy busted blue speaker in my ashdown with a Bl15-300 a few years back, and I found it to be an excellent driver for the price. It sounded better and didn't choke on its own vomit after a couple of years! [/quote] Sounds like the right choice then! Ha! The Celestion in my Twin Valve combo is one of the best speakers I have used for bass guitar albeit probably just a low to mid level K series. I do think the automatic choice is to use Eminence and other companies -like Celestion- get over looked. Glad you're pleased with your rig, I have every faith it sounds as good as it looks.

Very cool indeed.. What Celestion have you used?

[quote name='longtimefred' timestamp='1372367107' post='2125032'] I have been using tung sol 6550s in my v type V4 for years, I love em and are rock solid. Bet they would sound great in a CL [/quote] +1 one the Tung Sol RI 6550s.. They sound great in this too.. [URL=http://s778.photobucket.com/user/VTypeV4/media/BeavisChassis.jpg.html][IMG]http://i778.photobucket.com/albums/yy70/VTypeV4/BeavisChassis.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I've had good experiences with both the Shuguang and the EHX KT88s also..

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1371727460' post='2117377'] Thought of a better one ;Valve amps appear expensive because you aren't looking at the cheap ones. [/quote] My 300w Ashton rig (including 410 + 115 speakers) was the same price as you'll pick a 2nd hand VBA400 up for. I've had no issues in 2 years with it. Made in the East! [URL=http://s778.photobucket.com/user/VTypeV4/media/BV300RVW.jpg.html][IMG]http://i778.photobucket.com/albums/yy70/VTypeV4/BV300RVW.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1371712792' post='2117156'] Firstly because the world's supply of valve watts is being used up, and there are fewer and fewer of them about. Valve watts are grown organically in sheltered uplands, preferably on north-facing hillsides. Solid state watts are easily obtained (they use CNC machines to cut them out of large sheets of wattage) but they're not nearly as good as valve watts. Secondly because putting valve watts inside little glass bottles is more of an art than a science, and the skills just aren't there in the workplace any more. [/quote] Thats fantastic! Proper made me chuckle!

It's certainly an ECC83 although I'm unsure to the brand as they simply said 'TE' on the side. It was probably of chinese or russian origin. I do recall the valve having really quite tall plates also. The best I found in the SMX was the Siemens valve, the tall plate / smooth anode variety. Different valves in the SMX don't actually seem to make that much difference to be fair -in my experience at least- more of a texture change than defining character if that makes sense.. Hope that helps.

A sucessfull transplant! Nice one.. Do you have some pics?

What a fantastic venue! I had a great night. Thanks to anyone that saw this and came.

Thankyou, really looking forward to it!

[quote name='VTypeV4' timestamp='1371252589' post='2111890'] I have a dep bass gig with this crazy bunch tomorrow eve in Leicester. Top Cajun, Zydeco, Swamp n Roll outfit! Please come! [/quote] Sorry, I meant Sat 15 June!

I have a dep bass gig with this crazy bunch tomorrow eve in Leicester. Top Cajun, Zydeco, Swamp n Roll outfit! Please come!

I have a dep bass gig with this crazy bunch tomorrow eve in Leicester. Top Cajun, Zydeco, Swamp n Roll outfit! Please come!

I love KT88s but as many will tell you, it's the circuit design that counts as much as the valve type.. My Ashton runs 6 x KT88 of EHX variety. Neither are british but they do sound great.

I've done one show to date and have another with it tonight.. Last night was our house band, The Barflys who i've mixed for the last million years or so. I have to say, the desk worked a treat and without fuss or drama in a really smooth manor. I didn't have (m!)any real 'oh bugger, how do I get to that' or 'what is it doing now' moments which was a relief at the end of the show. The EQ works well, it's nice to have a Q facility to nail something nasty or just smooth a larger area although it is a bit wierd to have 3 sweepable band-pass filters, two of which will also shelve. I'm used to my old tried and trusted Allen & Heath GL3000 with two sweeps and two fixed shelves. The Soundcraft also stands up well in terms of sonics compared to the GL, it sounds at least as good. With the analogue stuff, I always found A & H to work better but Soundcraft to have the edge in the sound dept. It does have a few quirks but nothing that overly upsets me and some stuff I've already worked a better way round already. So far so good! Oh, and just like the 01V, that save facility is fantastic. Not sure I can live without now!

Well it's been a million years since I looked at this thread but I've done it.. Not an 02R but a 328XD.. It came up at the right money so it had to be had! [URL=http://s778.photobucket.com/user/VTypeV4/media/328XD1_zpsc58a16ab.jpg.html][IMG]http://i778.photobucket.com/albums/yy70/VTypeV4/328XD1_zpsc58a16ab.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Hope you enjoy that as much as I love my streamer, nice purchase!

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1370293635' post='2098852'] Also twice the price, and about same price as the Kappalite, which has slightly better specs. [/quote] I never checked the price.. Whoops!

^ He's right about that pretty much.. if you like the idea of Celestion (as do I) than how about this bad boy.. [url="http://celestion.com/product/70/ntr123018d/"]http://celestion.com/product/70/ntr123018d/[/url] Premium driver of it's type and mostly specs better than the one previously mentioned..

Hey guys, not sure if I'm being dumb but can you help? I have a Martin Audio W2 that is a little ill and requires some attention. I rather suspect it has a rubbing coil on the 12" so I need to pop it out for further inspection but I can't get the grille off! Is there something I'm missing or do I simply need to apply more force? For reference, it's the earlier grey coloured model that looks like an EM75 rather than the later variant that is black and looks closer to an F12..

I had a lovely green one many years ago (about 10 years actually! Ouch!) and it was a great bit of kit. I was happy with it in most respects, it did what it said on the tin. My only real criticism would be that I felt it lacked a little bit of character and I appreciate that 'character' is hard to define but I felt it lacked identity for want of a better phrase. Would I have another? Yes, probably if it came up on the cheap. I'd just use it for taking to the local jam night or such similar, somewhere where I don't want mucky mits on my Warwick! I can't compare to the newer RBX as I haven't played them so don't know what they're about. Hope that helps!

What is the SS pre-amp design? An active type with both cut and boost on the EQ section a bit like the Sound City ones of yore or an altogether more modern slant? Beavis runs the basic Marshall mod Fender type circuit (the one when all the controls are 'off', there's still signal unlike the Fender) which works OK although the Yam NEQ does the real work..

Can't believe I've missed this till now..! Looks like a great project, Beavis on steriods eh!? Great project, keep the pix and info rolling!

[quote name='Merton' timestamp='1367532298' post='2066709'] SMX dates from 1992/3 ish to 1997/8 Depending on output power you could be looking at between £250 and £450 I reckon [/quote] +1 on that.. IME the 400w model is the pick of the bunch, wish I still had mine.

Some fantastic sstuff cropping up here, very cool indeed!