Kiwi

The coating can always be sanded off so its not like the mod is irreversible.

[quote name='henry norton' timestamp='1321369540' post='1438295'] I'm interested in where you've experienced these issues with thick epoxy coats. I provide an epoxy coating service and have never had any problems with cracking - are you sure it wasn't a Fender style polyester coating you've seen with cracks?[/quote] I'm not sure what a "Fender style" coating is but could well have been poly rather than epoxy. I know poly is favoured by Thor and Pedulla and there have been posts on Talkbass about issues with neck flexibility on poly coated necks. Which is why some manufacturers won't offer it on their fretless necks. I'm no expert but I have a hunch that epoxy may be softer than poly...? [quote name='Chris2112' timestamp='1321379350' post='1438503'] This is an issue. My Zoot fretless had a cracked finish along the side of the neck. It was a graphite neck with an ebony fingerboard, and over the past 13 years the ebony has obviously expanded or shrunk slightly, causing the finish on the side of the neck to crack. It was imperceptible to the fingers when you were playing, though it looked a little bit tatty. Not a huge problem to fix (which I looked into) but I thought it would only happen again. So yes, this sort of thing has to be looked at carefully. I can recall playing a couple of fretless jazz basses with epoxied boards that were badly chipped and cracked.[/quote] Some superglue in the gaps would probably sort that out I'd imagine. Then buff residue flat.

Can be risky. Traditoinally thick coats are needed for durability and the thicker the coat the more brittle the coating gets. So if put on a neck that flexes a lot, there's a risk of cracking. Can't comment specifically on Wal necks and I'm aware that HG Thor has treated one piece maple necks without issues. Maybe the epoxy is a little thinner or a little more flexible these days...?

[quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1321263365' post='1436960'] Agreed. I thought BC was supposed to be a discussion forum not some sort of multiple-choice survey.[/quote] Replies typically follow the following response anyway: a ) agree b ) disagree (based on a set of assumptions that are either valid or invalid) c ) need more context d ) don't give a sh*t

This is forum for bass players. If the function isn't accompanied by blue flashing LEDs then it isn't working. Get it working please.

Pinned but if we had the wiki, it would be easier...

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1321235155' post='1436879'] Right, that was long enough. You can turn it off now, thank you. [/quote] Develop a skin, become a hard bastard. Make BBC proud. Make us proud. Fight for your people...yada yada

question asked...no looking up my feedback now. I wouldn't want you to find any penis enlargers.

CNC milling doesn't necessarily result in time saving if you factor in the time it takes to set the CNC up. What it IS good for though is long runs of the same component. This process also requires a high degree of precision for things like neck pockets. While its possible to do everything in CAD or a 3D program like 3D Studio, materials tolerances can be particularly difficult to judge unless someone experienced is doing the set up or final fit is carried out by hand. I've been looking into it for a little research project I'm working on at the moment. I may well end up doing a master by hand and then getting it 3D laser scanned as there will be some tricky radiussing involved which I can't do on the computer. It will let me test tolerances for fit. Gibson do all of their bodies on CNC mills, they 3d laser scanned a les paul, cleaned up the point data a little and now just shove the blanks in one end and take out the bodies from the other. I think Warwick do as well. The bloke who makes Martin Taylors jazz archtops uses CNC milling to do the arched tops and gets fantastic results. A CNC mill can set you back between 3000 quid for a 3 axis benchtop imported from the US, to well over 75,000 quid for a fully enclosed 5 axis job. There are ways for someone to built their own 3 axis mill out of MDF as well...

Lets not forget his purchase of E-books on penis enlarging.

Thin end of the wedge. I've gone off instruments, onto home studio and now onto workshop...the GAS doesn't stop for me, it just changes.

Yes but turned it down. I thought their expectations of commitment were a little unreasonable and I'd need to carry the band with keyboard programming if we wanted to shift onto a funkier set list.

[IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y222/crazykiwibass/Basses/Celinder%20Update%20P/DSCF1170.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y222/crazykiwibass/Basses/Celinder%20Update%20P/DSC01839.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y222/crazykiwibass/Basses/Celinder%20Update%20P/DSCF1172.jpg[/IMG] My Celinder P Classic with a jazz neck and currently strung with flats. Took it to an audition a few weeks back and it nailed most of the old covers. Still had to use a 5 string for stuff beyond 1985 though. If I ever sell it, I won't be replacing it with anything similar. Amazing vintage tone for something so new.

Bloody hell, I saw it and dissed it because it wasn't my thing. Those instruments are real works of craftsmanship and that's a fantastic score Foxen - good for you.

Play it first. The softness of the body wood tends to have a big influence over how warm the bass sounds in my experience (having owned two Quantums in my time). The risk is that you may find the bass to be more sterile sounding than either your warwicks or fenders. Check whether its got Bartolini pickups or EMGs, the Bartolinis can sound warmer on a brittle sounding instrument, also SWR amps make a brittle sounding bass much much warmer and ear friendly. My fretless Quantum had a neck issue because the fingerboard wasn't stiff enough (according to Rob Green). It wasn't an early one, it was from about 1995.

I hear they're gonna release a limited edition stringray in nickel plated finish.