Jono Bolton

[quote name='coasterbass' post='160782' date='Mar 20 2008, 01:14 PM']When i went to my local shop to ask about getting my first left handed bass the guy told me to learn to play right handed, on the basis that you need more power in your fretting hand than your picking hand. Clearly I ignored him, but I think he may have had a sound point... Maybe everyone should swap?!?[/quote] Exactly, on that basis everyone who's right handed should be playing a lefty, and vice versa. I bet your shop assistant didn't play the other way round Also, spare a thought for Finnish post-hardcore band [url="http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewprofile&friendid=15370025"]Disco Ensemble[/url], both their guitarist and bassist are lefties. Actually I don't think I've ever seen a band where all the guitarists/bassists are lefties.

So what sort of angle should I be looking for in terms of degrees? 0 degrees is totally flat, 90 degrees is straight up. Looking at my E just now it's probably about 10-15 degrees. I would have thought that having more turns would give you less of an angle as the string leaves the tuner higher up on the post. EDIT: Any chance someone could post a picture of their headstock to show me what the string break angle should be like? Please?

[quote name='Silverdog' post='161465' date='Mar 21 2008, 03:29 PM']thanks for the thoughts guys, I was hoping for a bit more DIY suggestions but hey ho. The screws are actually supposed to be black I think. Thanks again.[/quote] But the ones on the pickup surround are rusty I'd get them changed but I've found replacing guitar screws to be a nightmare.

[quote name='steve-soar' post='161414' date='Mar 21 2008, 01:54 PM']Hi Jono, how have you wound the E string onto the tuner post? I restrung my Precision last night and put 4 turns of string underneath each other. This makes the string come off the post at the same angle as the D and G strings. The only string I've had trouble with has been the A string but I just put 5 turns on it at the post. I think that I'll order a Hipshot 3 string retainer, $12, worth it for even string break behind the nut. Anyway if you have another E string to fit, if the one on it is too short, leave at least 20 cms extra string past the tuner post, put the string right down into the slot and wind the string with each turn going under the last. This should give you 4 to 5 turns around the post, enough back angle to stop buzzing and popping out. Cheers Steve. Knackers, didn't see BigRedx's post. :blush:[/quote] I normally cut the string at the next tuning post, so for the E I cut it so that the string reaches the far end of the A string post if that makes sense? Some crude editing in paint: The red line would be a continuation of the string if it was lain out flat, the 'X' being where I would cut the string. This is not my bass's headstock, by the way. I generally get 1 or 2 turns of the string before it's tuned up. Looking at it now, it's just one. I had a bit of a mess around earlier, it seems ok just now. Should I be trying to get the string as straight as possible, or do I want it at angle? The D and G strings are a very sharp angle, but the E and more so the A seem very straight. Put simply, do I want it a gentle incline or a steep slope? I would've thought that having 4 or 5 turns of string before the string leaves the tuning post would mean the string met the post quite high up.

My flatmate has offered me his Danelectro Wasabi Distortion now that my ODB-3 has been sold. It's pretty good, I'm getting a nicer sound (IMO) than I got with the Boss, but this thing swallows batteries whole! My flatmate said that by the end of a gig he could hear it struggling, and I think I probably got 3 hours or so out of it with a new battery. That could probably be remedied with using a better battery, not that the one I bought was rubbish, but really the only solution is to get a power supply. Will I need to get a Danelectro-specific PS or will a generic 9v adapter do the job?

I don't find the Precision neck too much of a handful. It's certainly thicker than the Jazz but my hands aren't the biggest and I can handle it just fine. You could always buy a MIM Jazz second hand and then have a Precision pickup installed. I was tempted to suggest the Mark Hoppus Sig but remembered it's got a Precision neck on it. Also the scratchplate on it's pretty fugly. And it only comes in cartoon blue, pink or green. Actually thinking about it sounds sh*t.

I got my second hand MIM Precision last October after a full on month at work picking up everybody's dropped shifts. It set me back £200 including a flightcase and postage. Spent a couple of months slowly modding it as and when I could afford it (this was also the build up to Christmas), put on a Badass II, Duncan Quarterpounder (I know not everyone cares for them) and a black scratchplate and it's my main bass now. Nothing I can fault about it really, it's a proper 'plug in and play' bass, no fannying about with multiple pickups and active electronics

The E string on my Jazz buzzes a fair bit when I'm playing and I can't for the life of me figure out what's causing it. Swapping and adjusting the nut doesn't make a difference, nor does adjusting the string height at the bridge end. Playing the E string open and putting a wee bit of pressure on it between the tuning post and the nut stops the buzz, but I obviously can't be doing that while I'm playing. If I'm using a pick and dig in then the E can occasionally jump out of the nut slot. The obvious solution to my mind is another string tree. This would have to go between the E and A strings, but it would be awfully close to the nut. Is there any sort of structural weak spot here? Would having a string tree here alter the intonation in anyway?

[quote name='thinman' post='160712' date='Mar 20 2008, 11:16 AM']Nice one Dr. Dave. I do like that pickguard with the 10:30 blue colour. Alway been a 3TS fan but could be tempted. I put 84s and a Badass on my MIM Jazz too - well worth it. Interested about the extra string guide - my A sometimes jumps out of the nut with a bit of over enthusiasm - I assume that sorts that problem?[/quote] The E on my MIM Jazz does the same thing, I think it stems from replacing the stock bridge with the BadAss II. Neepheid has a 3 string retainer bar on his OLP, you can see it in one of the build diaries he's done, I don't think it would fit in with the Fender vibe of the Jazz but it'd probably sort out your A string jumping out. My solution was to put a Graphtech nut on it (Tusq) and spend half an hour filing it down, tuning the E back up, hitting it as hard as possible to see if it was still jumping and repeating the process as required. Playing finger-style helps as opposed to playing with a pick, but if you have to use one try picking as close to the bridge as you can. Dr. Dave - nice bass! Although I've never seen a Jazz with Strat knobs before, it looks quite cool!

For lefty SX fans: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/left-handed-bass-guitar_W0QQitemZ220213841492QQihZ012QQcategoryZ4713QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]SX Precision[/url]

[quote name='The Burpster' post='160471' date='Mar 19 2008, 08:22 PM']Yamaha RBX 170.... perfect for what you want.... Mine went thru several Morphs before I let somelse have to learn with ![/quote] Actually it's not, I dislike the shape intensely! I much prefer 'traditional' shapes including - but not limited to - Ps, Js, Musicman shapes, some Gibson shapes. There was actually one in my school, it was alright but it's not for me.

Considered it but money is too tight at the minute for spending upwards off £100 for something that's going to be for messing about with. I don't really get on with the headstock shape either. I'm looking at the second hand market really.

I'm thinking about getting a cheapo bass to tinker about with, but preferably something half decent. I've been looking at a Westfield on ebay - black, tortoise shell guard, maple neck - but I don't know if they're any good or not. Plan is to de-fret it, and replace some parts, probably bridge, pickup, nut and wiring & pots. Can anyone suggest a decent but cheap bass, preferably a Precision or Jazz-a-like. EDIT: Maple neck is my only must for the bass, both my Fenders have rosewood and I fancy something different.

Yup, buy it, even if it is just for nostalgias sake. I wish I still had my first six string, a salmon pink Danelectro U2 that I picked up for the princely sum of £60 about 7 years ago. The input socket broke so I bought a Squier strat, then realised my dads mate could fix it for nothing, so it got sold on. I really wish I still had it

[quote name='cheddatom' post='156759' date='Mar 13 2008, 02:57 PM']Due to some circumstances out of our control, me and my guitarist could possibly start playing as a duet, with me on drums, and I have suggested him on baritone guitar. He's never played one before, and they're quite hard to find! So: What baritones are there? I swear I saw an Epiphone LP one on Ebay a while ago, and it was really cheap! Where can we find a baritone to actually play in a music shop? (stoke, brum, manchester are our limits) Are the strings on a baritone really thick, like bass strings? Or will it not be much different to heavy guage guitar strings? Ta [/quote] Have you heard [url="http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewprofile&friendID=56966459"]The Evens[/url]? I've fancied a Danelectro baritone for ages but they seldom crop up anywhere. There was Dano Innuendo on ebay the other day but its gone now. Cherry Sunburst, white pearloid scratchplate and built in effects. God it looked cool. I fancy the look of [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Eastwood-SideJack-Baritone-Guitar-silver-NEW-SUPERB_W0QQitemZ380007405452QQihZ025QQcategoryZ2384QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]this[/url] Eastwood too.

Just adding to what others have already said - I got here late - prices for lefties are generally higher due to the fact that companies have to completely different machine to make the bodies, neck, parts etc. As lefties make up a small percentage of the population (about 10% I think) it stands to reason that there are a lot less left handed bassists/guitarists and so companies have to charge extra to cover the costs of buying in the machines. Custom built basses shouldn't cost more as it's hand built, and so shouldn't cost any extra just to make it the other way round.

What do I need to do it? I'm doing a Stratocaster project and the screw holes don't line up with the ones in the new scratchplate.

[quote name='OldGit' post='158672' date='Mar 16 2008, 10:47 PM']Wow you even get this "Included in the price is an electronic tuner, lead, strap, and a DVD on how to get started with your new bass!" That's a true bargain.[/quote] They always try to make that stuff sound important, or make you think you need it, when really all they're doing is clearing out stuff they cant sell and taking up space in your binbag.

[quote name='silverfoxnik' post='157017' date='Mar 13 2008, 09:03 PM']If I'm not mistaken, that's a Wal bass known politely as 'the three headed monster'... Here's the link for more info: [url="http://www.trevorandthea.eclipse.co.uk/wal_history.htm"]http://www.trevorandthea.eclipse.co.uk/wal_history.htm[/url] Scroll down the page a bit and you'll find it![/quote] But just above that monstrosity it a true gem! It kinda looks like a symmetrical Mustang but it's got that schweeeeeeet humbucker in the bridge. Want one!