JPJ

On my board, i used to run my minimal effects through the fx loop but since i added the Sushiboxfx Finally v2 valve DI at the end of my signal chain, I have what fx i use after the preamp. With the EBS you have the option of running your fx in either serial or parallel through the loop. Parallel works reallly well if you want to maintain a solid bass tone whilst adding some dirt on top.

Hire in with a sound guy (it’s a corporate gig, they should be able to afford it, and they’ll be setting the cost off against tax). I’ve done out door gigs with our rig (2xEV ZLX15P’s on poles above our old Peavey Pro15P bass bins) and got away with it. Someone once told me you need a minimum of 4 x the quantity of bass bins for an outside gig, don’t know whether that’s true or not but it sounds plausible to me.

Another thing is that driver manufacturers will often talk of the frequency range in terms of +/- 3db. As driver frequency is a curve, the 45Hz might be at -3db, but the speaker will continue to produce much lower frequencies but at progressively lower spl (or ‘volume’ or ‘loudness’). At least thats how i understand it.

I'm relatively new to double bass but experienced this for the first time at a recent gig with a lovely polished wood floor. My bass has one of these on the end pin, but it was still sliding. So much so that I am thinking about buying or making something like this to attach to my stool leg and sit the end pin in.

I can echo your experience. I think if the bass hangs right you don’t notice the difference between 36”, 35”, or 34”. I can easily go from the 36” Original series to my 34” Fender or Lakland without feeling any difference

In my opinion, there is no substitute for big iron in bass tone (pic of the innards of my SWR SM1500 for reference) 😎

Early to late 80’s. The shape was invented for none other than John Entwhistle who loved the Thunderbird bass but hated the neck dive. Chris grafted the back end of a Thunderbird shape onto a more Fender’esque front end and the original series was born (Chris told me this story himself when mine was in Carlisle for a refret)

They will make one to custom order 😎

Ive been an Overwater fan boi since the 70’s when Chris operated out of the back room of his shop “Chris & Andy’s” on High Bridge in Newcastle upon Tyne. I currently own three, all five string, a 36” original series with the Wal’alike filter pre, a Perception thats been defretted and refinished by ex-Overwater luthier David Wilson, and my main gigging electric bass, a J series fitted with DiMarzio Ultra Jazz pickups and a John East J-Retro preamp.

We use a lot of veneers adhered to aluminium for both stability and lightness in yacht construction. Personally I think a 3 - 5 mm think piece of wenge on its own would be prone to cracking, and you’d definitely need some additional backing under the pots. Of course an alternative could be to glue the scratch plate to the body and have rear access for the controls?

I would expect an experienced acoustic instrument luthier would be able to reattach the block without performing major surgery on the bass.

Would have liked to see a balanced input (XLR) as well, but obviously this is aimed at those of us using pedalboard preamps. As others have said, its a lot of wonga for a 1x10 combo but unless I’m mistaken its British made so that’s got to be worth something these days.

Yes I thought of that, but real estate is a bit of a factor.

Yes just a robust die-cast box is fine. I’ll pm you 😎

I did try that, and wrecked two kits with my soldering skills and lack of attention to detail. Hence when one became available on line, I went for it 😂

Looking for help from one of you DIY’ers with the necessary skills. So I have just snaffled a Yamaha Nathan East NE-1 parametric equaliser for a very reasonable price from FaceAche market place. I’ve owned at least two of these before, and foolishly sold them when I’ve gone through the ‘I don’t need fancy pedals anymore’ phase. Having now done a few amp’less gigs I can see this being more the case going forward, so I’d like to add the NE-1 to my pedal board, but to do that, I need a couple of modifications. 1) rehouse in a new enclosure that will allow the addition of a true bypass foot switch (hopefully with LED for pedal on). 2) add a 2.1mm 9V centre negative power socket. Is there any of you guys who would be willing to take this on for me (paid of course) as my electronic skills are sadly lacking and I don’t want to ruin the NE-1 with my ham-fisted soldering skills. Ideally, by rehousing the innards in a new enclosure, the mods would be relatively easily reversible if I wanted to in the future.

So the room was almost perfect with great acoustics, meaning i could easily monitor via the FoH, and the sound engineer was spot on getting me a great acoustic double bass tone. Turns out I was overthinking things again 🤷‍♂️😂

I like the look of the 44A - 3x10 that allegedly goes down to 45Hz. Could be a solution to my single box per side ambition. However, I don’t like the look of the price 😬

Just grabbed this from Facebook marketplace at a very reasonable price, the discontinued Yamaha Nathan East parametric eq box. Not truly an effect pedal as its always on, but i thought it fitted here best. Plans are to re home in a more standard pedal sized box with both a true bypass footswitch and a 9v supply socket (currently battery only). This is the third one of these I’ve owned over the years but the intention is that this one is a keeper.

This was such a persuasive argument that I’ve ordered the Coda variant 😎

Looks like your Yucca needs watering 😉

I’d say spend, it sounds to me that you have a cast iron reasoning behind keeping the bass, and as to the ‘do it yourself’ route, the cost of the book mentioned by @Beedster is almost 25% of your estimated cost to have the work done 😎

I’ve played a few venues with installed systems that double as nightclubs (often as soon as the gig has ended) and these systems are almost always ‘tuned’ for dance style music. That coupled with the house engineer’s need to run the rig flat out results in the bass and bass drum obliterating everything else, and the bass just sounding like mush. As the old adage goes, just because you can doesn’t mean you should.