mrcrow

[quote name='Sibob' post='670038' date='Nov 30 2009, 02:41 PM']I'm not sure really Jack. I mean, there was a bow after removing the high tension strings, stands to reason. Bow + action too high = clockwise turns of the truss rod! I turned a quarter turn or there abouts, let it settle over a couple of hours, and again, but there didn't it didn't seem to make a difference. Seemingly I forced it a bit to much, and after another little turn, took to pitch, played and BOOM. Horrible sound! What I'm guilty of really is not seeking professional advice when the neck didn't seem to be doing what I wanted, rather than keep going Si[/quote] best to slacken strings between times when setting bow you give the truss 2x the work it has to do its a static element...not a jack really bad luck though..jon'll fixit

i vote with the 250 gang and as for wiring...this must be the most simplest wiring..as for P bass i generally put the hot lead...the white in the diagram..to the centre pin on the pot...gives a wider range of adjustment

[quote name='bassbloke' post='663133' date='Nov 23 2009, 08:25 PM'][b]I thought Effects send and return is usually after preamp it certainly was on my old Hartke HA7000[/b] - I used it to bypass the preamp. The DI on mine has a pre or post EQ switch, but I think it still comes after the gain stage, hence the problem with the hot output when I crank the gain. I think the attenuator is the perfect solution, simple and effective and small enough for me not to forget to pack it. Thank you very much for that advice.[/quote] you are right...i didnt even realise this as i was using my bddi on effects loop and though i had a clean signal straight to vol i checked my swr workingmans 12" combo spec...the effects loop is POST eq and PRE main amp..not as i thought before the preamp know knowing this and that it is controlled by my gain i can go back to the bddi on the effects loop and add gain via the combo front thanks

[quote name='TBFUS' post='667565' date='Nov 27 2009, 05:04 PM']thought so...thanks for the confirmation....[/quote] you can have a switch fitted to isolate the battery from the electronics and keep the bass plugged in remember if you do have this to put the vol at 0 i had one and an led which let me know if power was on if i left the bass on the stand and had forgot to switch off

[quote name='Dronny' post='633128' date='Oct 22 2009, 06:51 AM']What tuner do you use? and why? I'm looking for something to replace my no-name eBay five quid lump of cr@p and would like some opinions if anyone has any prefernces, dislikes, warnings, etc, cheers Dronny[/quote] it will do a g**t*r as well..but more importantly let you check those 24th fret upper notes...and 5th fret harmonics

[quote name='deaky' post='656338' date='Nov 16 2009, 08:16 PM']Hi all, Got a bit of a dilemma here Iam having my MIA Fender Deluxe Precision set up and I am wondering whether or not to stick a new set of strings on it. I currently have TI flats which are fab but a bit I find them slightly "loose". I like the look of the Rotosound Jazz 77 strings I play in a christian group so looking for a nice smooth silky sound. Appreciate any thoughts Deaky[/quote] i play christian music and found rounds suited most songs....flats i found too much of a thump for coming in and supporting melodically i found the best TI rounds..and others of course...they are all pretty good worst was stainless and for those roto's i hate stainless fender and ernies nickels were fine but TI just sat right especially with the worship leader and the singers got to play it right... cheers geof

[quote name='hillbilly deluxe' post='665429' date='Nov 25 2009, 06:30 PM']Yep,it's the only way.The pickup screws go through the pick guard at the front,and through the body at the bridge end,so,if you were to take the front or rear screws out,you would never get the springs back in.If the bass was'nt so playable it would be in the bin.It only rarely got used,T.V & video basically,when it was working ok,+ the wife bought me it. [/quote] time for a quick come apart modification ..?? sounds a pain but no more than having to take of pickguards and strings etc

[quote name='pal1972' post='665535' date='Nov 25 2009, 08:07 PM']just thinking... if i put one in does that mean the output then becomes active or does it stay as passive????? only asking as i have active/passive input in my amp head!![/quote] the output is the output use the passive input to your head if it clips too much ...then use the active they are just words some active pups have less output than some hot passive ones be at ease and just check the clip on the gain or listen for overdrive on your usual settings but now you will have new usual settings my gain is around 3/4 and the volume at 1/4 this means i have loads of headroom so set the gain first with the bass full open and your loudest note...i set mine on a slapped E string

[quote name='hubrad' post='664349' date='Nov 24 2009, 09:00 PM']A regular g**t*rist customer at the shop has some on his Tele.. said the first set was ok but then the second set is like such a different type of string that his Tele needs a different setup! I suspect the closeness of name to D'Addario is no accident.. loads of folks ask for Adagio because they can't pronounce the name properly. We stock D'Addario, not the 'others'. Attractively priced, mind, those Adagio strings.. 'Cheapest on Ebay' ring any bells with anyone? [/quote] looking at getting those labella super steps...but at 19.99?? check out your la bella flats price...49?..must be a mistake [url="http://www.themusicroom-online.co.uk/product_info.php/cPath/30_54/products_id/4361"]http://www.themusicroom-online.co.uk/produ...roducts_id/4361[/url] interested in your site and prices cheers geof

[quote name='mikebass78' post='647923' date='Nov 7 2009, 10:52 AM']I bought a HighwayOne P-bass as my first 'grown up' bass a couple of years ago, being inexperienced it initially sounded great compared to the no-name bass I'd started on. However after a little time I find that there's a lack of sub-bass coming through the sound, it's impossible to get anything close to the growl I've heard from other Ps and pushing the low end just sounds wooly or flabby depending on how i've set the action/tone/eq. I don't have a problem getting a clear sound generally but the E does sound a little dead at the moment (fitting new strings today). I've ordered a set of SD quarter pounders and I expect that will help to a degree but having played other Ps I find the Highway physically lighter and lacking resonance through the body when played accoustically. Partly this may be because I play with the action 1-2mm higher at the bridge (badassII) to accomodate an enthusiastic playing style, or it might be because of the wood used? The bass says made in USA in-05 or'06, but I've heard that it may have actually been made in mexico and that could mean a basswood body, can anyone shed any light? I've looked into it some and I'm also considering having a mahogany body made. has anyone had similar experience? At the moment a new bass is out of the question, I play an all-in-one amp with a single 15" (I heard that) so a new head would mean a cab as well so that's also a no, plus I'd like to work this one out, any help or ideas would be appreciated, cheers[/quote] starting with the string..the E new or old...should have as much as you can get break angle at the tuner if you have a higher action check the pup heights as per fender instructions.. you could be chasing moonbeams if you dont get the fundamentals right we all yearn for that special bridge, pup, nut etc and drool over power management systems...heads cabs etc the woods can make a difference and i suspect you think because your bass is light its not got the balls you need but keep a cool head and dont rush forward too fast... acoustical checks are not always a definite indication of electrical output and sonority...wait till you have the 1/4 ' on and give it some time to come together..

[quote name='geoffbyrne' post='665306' date='Nov 25 2009, 04:50 PM']I used a conical reamer - this ensures everything is kept centered. Work from both sides, uses a shallow an angled reamer as you can get. G.[/quote] thats magic...and saving dowelling..whats the shallowest angle 10* ??

[quote name='hillbilly deluxe' post='664027' date='Nov 24 2009, 05:12 PM']It will get the MM,and either 1 or 2 of the lipsticks,all this will be done at the same time.The body is 2 piece,in that the front screws to the back,which needs to be seperated to get at the wiring and to take the pickups out.[/quote] did you do all that to check the duff pup...

[quote name='garethox' post='664792' date='Nov 25 2009, 10:06 AM']I have a[b] TE 300W combo[/b] and I'd like to extend the speaker cable to around 2m. Is it easier to buy one of those cylinderical cable connection jobbies or is the best option to splice a longer cable to the TE one and would a block connection do the trick? Cheers![/quote] you have got a few replies their...and i agree...a full new cable is the answer...mechanical joints arent really good transferrers of power unless you are mowing the lawn and it doesnt matter if the thing forgive me but on a combo...isnt the cable to the speaker in the box if its a head and then a cab dohhhh.... do you mean the power cable...you can get them quite long

[quote name='neepheid' post='665263' date='Nov 25 2009, 04:21 PM']The "system" part of it is only for EMG pickups - the volume/blend pots are the wrong values for passive pickups. What you need is the BTC Control on its own, you take care of volume and blend or pickup selecting yourself and feed the results to the BTC Control. The BTC System is a BTC Control bundled with the volume/blend bit. Don't waste money on a BTC System for passive pickups, just get a BTC Control. BTC Control: [url="http://www.emginc.com/products/index/104/146/4"]http://www.emginc.com/products/index/104/146/4[/url][/quote] +1 and its a cute little pot...good one neipheed...got the 2000 sorted now

i thought the east u retro might be applicable..marcus retro...u retro U1 deluxe... they appeal to me

[quote name='barnettiuk' post='652418' date='Nov 12 2009, 11:06 AM']Friends, I recently put a set of LaBella Deep Talkin' Flats on my Vintage V4 (and the neck has barely moved by the way). The strings sit slightly proud of the top of the nut. (There's no gap between the strings and the bottom of the individual slots, and they don't rattle or buzz from there). Does this matter? I mean could it cause any problem sound- or stress-wise? cheers Ian[/quote] the guys say no problem...the nut only has to support and supply some side restraint... rickenbacker nuts on the 4003...the one i had...were v shaped...so the string only sat on the sides...different gauges sat firmly down and were good witnesses for the scale length... physics wise the transverse components of the string sitting in the V cancel and the vertical components resolve together to give the same downward force as in a U slot...

[quote name='Mike' post='662441' date='Nov 23 2009, 10:17 AM']Hi all! I'm going to the USA for 3 weeks and [sup][b]really need to keep up my daily practice[/b][/sup]. Mike[/quote] i saw you mention shuker...really if i was going on a plane with the hassle you have outlined i would take a cheapy in a normal case one you can definately take on the plane...i took a tenor sax in a bass gig bag once to israel...security at el al held me up to inspect it and wouldnt let me through till i played a tune...good! anything can happen

[quote name='BurritoBass' post='664336' date='Nov 24 2009, 08:52 PM']No but I bet they sound great on a Fonder Jozz bass![/quote] some classical composers used adagio quite a lot..

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='664179' date='Nov 24 2009, 07:03 PM']Nah, they are spammed all over ebay for £4. I'd love them to be good. I tried some Alice ones once. All had dead G strings.[/quote] yes..defo not d'addarrio...and as i suspected...not worth the time many thanks Mr Foxen....need to get some others instead

[quote name='mrcrow' post='663044' date='Nov 23 2009, 07:08 PM']quite cheap on ebay just now...are they good.. any users or comments please cheers[/quote] any ideas

my engineering days say stud extractor...but...you need some meat left over when you drill the hole for the extractor to bite if you are drilling a hole anyway....small pilot hole first then successive larger drills...slowly and with sharp point open out the guts of the screw till the edges can be collapsed and screwed out...not the better way ..but another way good job its not a tap

[quote name='Stylon Pilson' post='663780' date='Nov 24 2009, 02:26 PM']Plug the holes with 15mm dowel. Sand it flush. Re-drill. S.P.[/quote] +1 if you are drilling wood you will need a centre to stabilise the cutting edges at the periphery on a wood drill so the plug is really the way to go...and 18 is pretty big...go slowly and use a really sharp drill

[quote name='hillbilly deluxe' post='663125' date='Nov 23 2009, 08:16 PM']Singular pickup readings,all,to all points and purposes the same.It is registering,but for some reason it is quiter than the others. Replacement pickup will be MM type,body will need routing,and new scratchplate making.It may or may not get one,or two of the good pickups in the neck position.[/quote] problem if not solved...resolved..!! if you are going to get routing etc...and envisage 2 mm pups..now is the time to put them in i like one but two seem to be in fashion

[quote name='velvetkevorkian' post='663174' date='Nov 23 2009, 09:14 PM']If by "new string squeak" you mean finger noise when moving along the string, surely that's just part of the longer lasting treble coated strings have? That's my perception as a long time Elixir user anyway.[/quote] i find this gets worse as the strings get older..i thought those frequencies were picked up easier and amplified more as one tries to up the amplification on the lesser and lower frequencies died out due to age of the string..dirt etc