Andyjr1515

Hi, PlungerModerno Well - if it came out anything like that I think both Bryan and I would be eating our respective hats ...but yes, conceptually that kind of thing but with a fancier veneer underneath (and a less perfect finish on top!). The veneers that Bryan has chosen are both stunning so, if either works, it should be quite something. The choice is also Tru-oil to give more of a satin look and quicker to 'age' naturally. I think you'll be really pleased with the micro-mesh - it's so much better to use than normal wet and dry for the kinds of things you're talking about. Thanks for following the thread! Andy

Ah - misunderstood... I think you might be right. There are some effects which are already multi-effects but I think you are right, you can only use one of the various selections on the knob at a time. It's like the modelling amps - my Vox Valvetronix is the same. It's a twist knob for the effects like the pod with choices of various single or pre-set multi effects but you can only use one choice at any one time What you're after, if I've understood correctly, is an effects chain. I think these only started coming in with the newer generations of pedals Andy

Veneers are ordered; new ink samples received and look promising; frets confirmed as level and polishing started; ebony/epoxy dint fill on the back of the neck will be tried this evening; primer and touch-up paint for the top edge of the headstock should be able to be bought in the morning...nothing much to show but pleasing progress all the same

Does this not do the trick. Paul? 1. Get an amp or effect you love happening on your POD. 2. Hold Save, and press Manual. Save, Manual, A, and B lights flash. 3. Use Up/Down arrows to select A (Amps) or B (Effects). 4. Press Save to complete the deed. It's from section 6.4 onwards[url="http://line6.com/data/6/0a060b316ac34f0593e5054cc/application/pdf/Bass%20POD%20User%20Manual%20-%20English%20.pdf"] in the manual[/url]...I'm sure what you are trying to achieve is do-able Andy

..but back to the thread ...do you know which model it is, mentalextra? If it has block inlays, it will definitely be long scale. If it has dots, it could be either (the 'special' is 34" and the 'special SS' is shortscale) ...and have you bought it yet???

[quote name='DrBike' timestamp='1413469443' post='2578556'] Aren't Jaguar basses short scale? (rinses mouth out with soap and water) IGMC [/quote] The 'Vintage Modified Jaguar Special SS' is - it is 30" The normal 'Vintage Modified Jaguar Bass (wot mine is) is 34"

[quote name='mentalextra' timestamp='1413466544' post='2578506'] ...... noticed a Fender Squier 'Jaguar' bass. Had some age to it, looked like it had been played; ie the 'newness' had worn off. The ticket said £99, got a feeling they might take an offer? But do I [s]need[/s] want it? [/quote] Even to ask that question, you KNOW you do. I love mine...

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1413460540' post='2578415'] I think I'm about as excited as you and Bryan are in seeing this bass reborn [/quote] Great, isn't it! It's why this could never be much more than a breakeven hobby for me....I just love trying to make things better than they were :-)

Here's the headstock. Still some vestiges of the over-varnish (bottom edge) but 'satin-ing' up nicely: And here's the back: Still a lot of work to do with the neck. There are a few dints that I will ignore, but one deep one that you feel as you run your thumb up the fretboard. A couple of ways this can be tackled, but I will first try the method I use to hide inlay gaps in ebony. I mix ebony dust (collected last time I radiused an ebony fretboard) into epoxy and then fill the dint with that. Once it's been sanded with micro-mesh, it should be pretty invisible.

A bit more progress. Bryan and I have agreed the strategy for the veneer choice and colour tone. We are going to trial two veneers - I won't reveal either of them until we're happy with one of them and the actual veneering is on the way. It's a new supplier for me - shipped from Germany and one that Bryan tracked down. I'm ordering some other veneers at the same time to see what the quality, shipping damage, etc, is like. If it looks a good 'un, I'll circulate the details. While I'm waiting for the veneer, I'll order some more colour samples - you need quite a wide range because you can never be quite sure how the colour is going to be affected by each particular wood. In the meantime, this evening, I started to have a look at the neck. Yes - there's some damage to patch up on the top edge of the headstock but I've started to micro-mesh (GREAT stuff if you've never tried it) the headstock and the neck. Both are starting to come out smooth and satin. I don't think I'm fully through the added varnish yet on the neck but it is already starting to look good and feel SILKY smooth. It probably needs a lot more micro-meshing but I'll see if it's good enough to photograph in the light tomorrow The other thing I've started doing is crowning the frets. They're not too badly worn but I'm not going to take them down until the wear marks completely disappear - just enough to have a proper fret profile, enough so you can't feel the dips and the fretted notes are spot on. I'm travelling again next week but hopefully be able to make a decent amount of progress between now and then.

No problem

[quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1413355874' post='2577351'] That's a wonderfully suprious excuse for buying a new bass.... I love it. [/quote] Why do you think I have so many spare strap locks ;-)

What colour are they? Just thought, if they are chrome, I'm certain I have some you can have for nowt.

They are readily available. If all else fails, [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/warwick_security_straplocks_bk.htm"]Thomann at less than £11.00 a pai[/url]r...free postage if you buy a new bass at the same time

[quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1413297584' post='2576834'] I know you're pulling my leg, there's no mug ring stains in the varnish! [/quote] We use a tablecloth, as you should when serving off a fine piece of furniture

[quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1413153638' post='2575402'] Although the figuring could look very cool, and you can call me vain if you like, but I won't feel comfortable playing AC/DC, Led Zep, Iron Maiden et al. on something that resembles a posh coffee table [/quote] With this one, me and the band do the gig, then pop it on the floor and serve supper off it

Hi, Chris! It's an exciting one. We're going for veneer on the front AND the back, stained green with a very dark green sides, back cutout and transition. Still a lot of decisions to be made - and I'm sure plenty of challenges along the way - but I have a good feeling how it's going to turn out Andy

Talking to Bryan, and both of us impressed with the photo you have posted, PaulS, I think we are going to head down the veneer route. There is such a lot of choice, I'm sure it will take the two of us a fair time to home in on the best option - it could be straight wood-wood, or something quite different. I've posted some tips and tricks to Bryan to help start the process but thought the subject might be of interest to some of you here. Here's an extract: [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]"The next factor is colour (determined by wood type): the darker colours will not stain well. but will darken and look fabulous with just a clear finish. The lighter ones will stain fine. If you still want to go for green, you need to be looking at one of the lighter ones (around the shade of the quilt maple or beech). North American Burl Walnut can get pretty dark and is best left unstained. Same with mahogany, paduak, etc.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]The next choice is then the figuring - that is, figuring that is even to create just 'texture' or major figuring which becomes the defining feature.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Some examples are below, from some of the veneers I have in my loft, but the principles are the same for the many varieties you sometimes see for sale:[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]This is called 'fiddleback' and I think I remember it is mahogany. With this you would just varnish/oil. It would darken to a rich brown with distinct but even figuring....[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]You could stain it, but it would be much much darker than the similar patterned but much lighter 'flamed maple' that you might see on, say a Gibson Les Paul[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]This one below is a darkish maple - this you could stain and it gives you texture rather than major figuring:[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]It's what I used on the turquoise 'competition' 6-string:[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]The one above, or something similar, would stain just fine.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Then you head towards the highly figured. Again, maple can be figured and light in colour. Burl Maple would come out something like this (this is real wood but veneer would come out similar):[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Then you have the highly figured. For example, North American Burr Walnut starts like this:[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]...which, with clear varnish turns out like this:[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]...or this...[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]which turns out (colour-wise) something like this:[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] Hope that is of general interest. In the meantime, this simply make this project even more exciting Andy

[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1413055316' post='2574606'] I can't believe you got that done so quick! It took me a couple of days with a heatgun to strip my '85 Spectrum GT. [/quote] Hi, alittlebitrobot They were light coatings as far as these things go - the second one and the original. Some of the ones in the past have taken me a week!!!!

Hi Howie You are right in that you never know what is under there but, as it is done as a mass production method rather than to specifically hide anything, it has every chance of being OK. The problem is more likely is the major shade differences of the body sections - particularly as the pieces are not symmetrical or the same widths Once I've got the stain, I can do a trial as it is, then if that is not great, take off the veneer and see what they looks like. If that still isn't great, I've already shown Bryan what I think would be a fabulous veneer. I always get excited with these projects, but I'm super-excited about this one. :-) Thanks for the link! Andy

I've got on well today. Pleased with that because I now know what is there and that gives plenty of time for Bryan and I to talk through the options, and maybe try a few things, before committing how best to finish. Basically, got the main stripping completed. Still lots and lots of sanding to do to get rid of the in-grained black but no surprises from this point on. The top is as I suspected - veneer, cross grain and not covering the arm rest: The underlying wood (maybe alder, maybe basswood) is made up of four sections of differing widths. You might be able to see some of them here: The one to the right of the straplock hole is quite a bit narrower than the other three. Again, like one of the pieces you can see at the back, the unstained shade of that narrow one is quite different, as you can see at the armrest: The back will be fine as is - I usually do the back and sides in a darker shade of the top colour so it will be fine either with the manufacturer's veneer left in place or sanded off (the veneer for this kind of construction doesn't have any massive strength addition). For the front, these are the options I'll talk through with Bryan (and as I say, some of these can be tried out to see how they come out):[list] [*]Leave as is and just stain. The top will be fairly even looking other than the armrest area, but the grain will be going the 'wrong' way. [*]Remove the manufacturer's veneer. All the grain will be going the 'right' way, but there will be some shade variations for each of the four sections making up the body. [*]Apply a veneer to the top and then stain. [/list] I'll PM Bryan and we'll knock the options around. In the meantime, I've got plenty to do getting the neck looking a bit more tip-top Thanks for looking Andy

Yes - I reckon it was simply an intention to make it gloss. I suspect whoever didn't think to just polish it or just use clear lacquer - hence the black lacquer (there are bits everywhere now in my study!) and then the need to mask off the logo and serial number. We've all done similar things in our past I'm sure... So a bit of the real job this morning. It's been dry so I thought I'd take advantage and start the body strip to see what's under there. I always start at the back! The tools I use are simple - heatgun and scraper: The blue is, I think, car paint spray, and with a bit of heat came off easily, leaving the original lacquer underneath. Again, with some heat applied, the lacquer came of reasonably easily, revealing the black underneath. The lacquer is mercifully thin...on some basses this bit of the job is very, very tough: So - what was going to be underneath it. I talked through with Bryan the possibilities of what we might find when he dropped the bass off...of which I forgot about this one... This is a bit odd, I thought, the grain's in the wrong direction. Plywood perhaps? Although it didn't feel heavy enough to be ply : There's actually nothing wrong with plywood (although, it does make for interesting challenges when you are trying to do a trans refinish!). This Epiphone LP Junior has the best tone of any of the guitars I have ever owned for 'that' tone. It's plywood: Anyway, back to the Thunder Jet - the quickest way of finding out is to strip a bit of the sides. Ahah! All is revealed: It's a technique that is used by a number of manufacturers for their entry-level guitars. I have seen it before on some Squiers. It is a quick way of getting a smooth and even finish for spraying without having to fill the body section joins. It will be the same, I am sure, on the top. The challenge (but as always, there are ways around) is that, clearly where the cutouts and arm-relief is, the veneer is cut away and as such there is a change of colour and texture. You can see it here, and also, you can see - at the very top of the curve - the additional colour difference of one of the body sections against the other. It's quite yellow: Anyway - better get back to it before the weather goes off! Thanks for looking Andy

[quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1412954106' post='2573647'] You have the same sort of self control as I do! (Which reminds me, I should be working rather than reading about this!) I think the Thunder Jets came with a black neck, can you see where Mr Bodgejob's dodgy headstock finish ends on the back of the headstock? [/quote] Hi, Bryan I had 'another cup of coffee'... The initial scraping was with my thumbnail. Over the second cup of coffee, I got a much more effective non-scratch scraper out - a Dunlop 0.6mm pick (don't you just love the zen potential?) 10 mins and I've got this far: There's still a bit of varnish over the logo and the varnish is tougher around the neck area but I am pretty sure the whole neck has been repainted as well as revarnished. Certainly it was originally a black neck - otherwise the back of the headstock wouldn't be black. It might be just clear varnished at the neck but then why would they use black over the existing headstock? The stuff I've scraped off the headstock is definitely either black or clear over black. I'm not intending to take the neck down much beyond creating a decent key for the recoating, or just a smooth wire-wooled finish if you prefer that. We can discuss more as it progresses and either way, the transition from headstock to neck will look OK I'm quite happy with this so far. Andy

Trouble is, she's there, looking at me like a seductress. Hang it - I've done 50 pages of the report... ...so over a cup of coffee, I've just had a scrape at the back and front of the headstock to see what's under the crud. Mainly good news...I think. As suspected, the black and varnish is just over the original headstock. Why? - not sure other than maybe because a previous owner was painting the neck black and wanted it to match? The weird thing is that they clearly either masked off the logo or coated it all then scraped it off that area, but in doing so, scored some deep cuts around it (and a few random ones around it). The good news is that the logo is fine - protected by the thick original varnish: You can see the deep scalpel or knife scores in this shot here: No big problem. The original varnish on Westones is thick enough for this to be able to be sanded down safely past the score mark depth. The serial number area is even better. This: ...is hiding this: I THINK that the crack you can see down the headstock is in the original varnish only - certainly there is no sign of a crack when you look at the top of the headstock where the paint has come off. You never know - there maybe some horrors the previous owner was trying to cover up , but I think it unlikely...and it's looking better already . Ooops - coffee break over. Back on our heads Andy

Thanks, Bryan and all! I'm quite excited by this project (as I am with all of these types of project). I am plowing my way through writing a 72 page report at the moment for the day job...the downside of the overseas trips... but hopefully this evening I'll be able to start have a closer look at what we've got. Bryan's and my view when we were looking at the headstock yesterday evening, is that the original headstock is probably behind the added gunk. In a 'safe' spot, I'll scrape a little off with a one-sided razor blade and see and see what condition it's in. The body will have to wait for the weekend...it usually involves a heatgun and lots of smells that Mrs Rogers, for some inexplicable reason, seems to object to in the house! I will, nevertheless, be able to strip the bass down ready to start. Bryan and I talked quite a bit about his colour preference and there's some ink that is a possibility of being the right shade already on order I'll keep everyone updated (but don't hold your breath time-wise ) Andy p.s - Yes 'Bryan' is easier...tthere's a llott of ll's and tt's in tthatt tthere user name of yours, Allighatt0r!