tauzero

Sounds rather suspect to me, especially as most active basses have passive pickups (BRX is going to pop up any second to say that there's no such thing as an active pickup). My Thumbs have active pickups (EMG and MEC, defining an active pickup as one that contains a preamp within the pickup body) and neither cause problems with any of my wirelessesses.

That piqued my curiosity enough to actually look at it. He might be a guitarist, he's not a web designer.

Do a similar thing to a Jazz bass - cut out a piece of thin stainless sheet that will cover the control cavity, then cut away the portion of scratchplate that it overlaps. As long as your laser cutter is up to the job...

Bandmix attracts a lot of imbeciles who tick every box, so if I look for a band that's seeking a bass guitarist, 80% of them are also apparently seeking accordion, acoustic guitar, background singer, bagpipes,..., vocalist (tenor). JMB isn't great to search on - I want to look for bands up to 40 miles away, which means Staffs, Warks, Derbys, West Mids, Notts, Leics at least. At least Bandmix lets you effectively stick in a pin and draw a circle, although its interpretation of "distance" appears entirely random after that (no, London is not within 50km or whatever it is).

Manual for a Trace Elliot Elf

You can get locking straps - Planet Waves makes a range, eg https://www.gak.co.uk/en/planet-waves-planet-lock-guitar-strap/100769.

Have you connected it directly to the laptop rather than via a hub?

A piece of 12mm plywood, maybe with some stick-on feet on it?

Adjusting the truss rod: generally (and this is not universal), you turn the adjuster clockwise to tighten the truss rod and decrease the bow in the neck, and anticlockwise to loosen it and increase the bow in the neck. When loosening it, you don't need to loosen the strings. When tightening it, you can loosen the strings or push back on the headstock to decrease the bow while tightening it. The commonest truss rod adjuster is probably a 4mm allen key. A capo is also very useful - put the capo on the first fret, then hold the strings down at the top fret and see what clearance you have to frets halfway between the two. Some people like a lot of relief, others like very little - find out what suits you, sort out a way of measuring it, then you can reproduce it on other instruments or after changing string gauges or when the weather changes and the neck shifts a bit.

I don't know what you're moaning about, he/she had the courtesy to reply and to say thanks. That's a pretty good result, and they're not intending to waste your time either.

Set of Rotosound flats.

I had one of the percussive fretless ones many, many years ago. I think it was one of the instruments I part-exchanged to get my Warwick Thumb in 1988.

Putting a reverb with a quite rapid decay on it helps, especially if you start out with an Ashbory.

Isn't that just a switched jack plug?

Lekato WS-90. Fits into an SRF705.

That looks neat. Makes headless conversions simple.

That's a tier 2.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1368176770519389 Such honesty is rare and deserves rewarding. Not by me, though.

Just beware that this doesn't presage a slippery slope - "I had to buy a wireless as if I walked 10 metres from my amp with my 3 metre lead, I couldn't be heard".

Yes, everything of mine is active - used with an Ibanez EHB1265MS and various others (Warwick, Sei, for example). One point - if you have one of the recessed socket Ibanezezezes like the SRF705, the WS-50 doesn't quite get in there but the WS-90 does.

Lekato WS-50 - use it all the time, for rehearsals, open mic nights, and gigs. Have also bought a Lekato WS-90 recently which is a bit bigger, has a longer battery life (the WS-50 isn't bad at 4+ hours) and can be switched to any of four channels.

I have a 1-Spot powering an HX Stomp from the rightmost power outlet, other outlets being used for a MIDI switch, HPF/LPF, and Harley-Benton wireless. Just used a 2.1 to 2.5 non-reversing lead (chopped the end off a 2.1-2.1 and put on a 2.5).

Both pickups fit exactly into the recesses designed for them and the nut looks fine, so it's just inspired by He Who Must Not Be Named, not one of his production models.

It gets posted in the Weird and Wonderful section and people point and laugh. Alternatively, it gets put into production as per prototype with a horrible chunky neck, which is what happened in this case.

Well, that's further bafflement. There's heatshrink over the end of the outer insulation on the pickup leads, which I thought might contain the ends of each pickup winding, like on the BH2 pickups. No such luck. Slit the heatshrink and it just covers where the cable screen is run into a separate sleeve. No access to the internal coils. So I need at least one replacement MK1.