tauzero

Headless bass.

Not unless I've changed gender and nationality without noticing. I suppose I should have mentioned that it was somebody else's review.

What I was trying to say earlier was that a totally rigid bridge won't absorb energy itself, so if the high mass bridge deforms less than the BBOT then it will absorb less energy itself and therefore the sustain will be greater, given that all other elements of the system remain the same.

I think it would just have to be a reasonably rigid beam, as you're looking at a comparison rather than an absolute.

They're available on Ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387060057584

Phil's video does give thorough guidance on the assembly.

Kala used to do the SUB range (I have one, a fretted 5). They dropped those some time ago, in fact they'd dropped them when I got mine so Thomann were flogging them off (just call me Betamax man). They are now doing a cheaper bass uke range, but these are steel strung with magnetic pickups rather than rubber strings and piezo.

Possibly this:

I bought a Batking one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363555959883. Surprisingly good.

That's fine, as long as it's not me spending money I'm happy 😁

When I shimmed one neck with a brass shim, I put it over the two neck bolts closest to the bridge rathe than between them and the end of the neck.

I've played one, albeit a four-string, and I didn't like the neck. Which I was very pleased about, as it meant I wouldn't be tempted to spend ridiculous amounts of money.

No warranty replacement - a) I opened the amp up to diagnose the problem, voiding the warranty, and b) warranty for woofer is only one year. They've offered to sell me a replacement at a discount, just waiting to find out how much that will be.

Do you need to have the XR18 remote from the stage, rather than on the stage with control being done remotely?

In my Firefox, it's in the Extensions section under the menu item "Add-ons and Themes".

Ah yes, sorry, that's what happens. Memory fading (and I only bought some stuff from there a few months ago). But the seller still finishes up with 60% of what the buyer pays (in total), rather than 60% of the sale price.

I checked the two I had left with digital calipers, and they weren't tapered. For whatever reason, the first one did the job on the bass I used it on.

If you go into the Add-ons manager, do you see F.B. Purity in there and is it enabled? If not, you could try using Add-ons manager to add FBP and see if that solves the problem.

Surely if it transmits 100% of the energy from the string to the body, it is infinitely rigid and therefore not deforming and not absorbing energy, so no damping. If it was absorbing 100% of the energy and transmitting none, it would be damping the string.

If you've used tapered shims, you haven't used the ones in the OP. And I don't know why you've mentioned plywood, I don't think anybody else did.

The necks on my Seis are the best necks of any basses I've played, with the Antoniotsais being a close runner up. Looking at 5-strings, I haven't played a Jazz (Fender) or Rickenbacker, only played a Stingray briefly (I liked that), no Alembic, played a Fodera but that was just a 4-string (and I didn't like the neck), no Ritter. Edit: no Gibsons either.

You can check out any time you like but you can never leave.

On Saturday night, my AT800 uttered a few horrible noises (even more horrible than my normal playing) and then ceased to emit any noise whatsoever. Yesterday was diagnosis day. The combo has an amp in a sleeve at the back, with a jack plug connecting speaker and one output. With the jack plug unplugged and a speakon cable connecting the amp to a known good cab, I got sound. Reversing the experiment and connecting the jack plug from the speaker to a known good amp, I got a little sound from the tweeter. I extracted the main driver and checked for continuity - open circuit. The driver is a Sica, custom made for GR Bass. Considering this amp has only done about 50 hours of gigging, keeping up with a medium loudness drummer, this is rather disappointing, and I'm trying to get a replacement driver from GR Bass as a warranty issue. Fortunately I have a spare amp and cab which I was intending to give a run out to anyway, so I'll be using those until I get a replacement speaker.

Gardiner Holgate charge about 25% for the buyer and 15% for the seller, so you finish up with 60% of what the buyer pays.

I would say that 1 and 2 are subsets of 3.