tauzero

I have a spare Akai LPK25 which I could very easily be tempted to let go of for not many beer tokens at all, if you find that it would suit your needs.

No, it shows it's centre negative. 12V 3.0A. Attaching a centre positive PSU will let out the magic smoke. The + going to the encircling, er, circle is the outer, the - going to the inner pin is the inner. Hence centre negative. The HB Iso-1 I have has a similar but different power supply. The plug will be a 5.5mm outer, but it could be either a 2.5mm or 2.1mm inner - on mine it's a 2.1 inner, I expect it to be the same on yours. There's a few sellers on Ebay who sell a vast array of power supplies. Try contacting https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/effectspedalpowersupplies and see if he can do you a 12V 3A 5.5/2.1 centre negative power supply.

From the Behringer website: "and the built-in stereo crossover makes this subwoofer ideally suited for use with any of our active 2-way loudspeakers".

That might just be the way he's sitting.

Is that Paul Whitehouse on guitar?

"Unresponsive" may be the best description. Mrs Zero keeps telling me I should smile more.

You don't ask, you don't get... You've got the Monza (fastest F1 circuit), Monaco (slowest F1 circuit), and Silverstone (oldest F1 circuit), so logically it should be the newest F1 circuit. Although that's Las Vegas, it's a temporary circuit, as is Miami, so it's Losail or Jeddah, or if they're excluded for human rights reasons, Algarve.

I've had the occasional look over the last few years but haven't seen anything. Maybe they've balanced supply and demand so they don't need to flog off the overstock dead cheap any more.

I suspect you'll need XLR-XLR leads and a pair of active tops.

It would have to be a very custom version to use it in the One10. Two inches smaller diameter for a start. I had a One10. Sold it as it sounded rather rough at the volume I was using it, which wasn't full-on rock band loud by any stretch of the imagination, the "drummer" was playing a very lightly miced up cajon and unmiced bongoes.

I've got the AT Cube 800 - as I haven't got an extension cab, it's putting out a maximum of 500W. As I've go a wireless system, one day I may put the amp in the kitchen and go upstairs and see what it's like at full whack. Very clean and well balanced sound.

Today's method: Go round all the T-nuts which are in place, checking that they thread up properly (one didn't, so I knocked it out) Replace the T-nut with another that I checked would thread from the correct end, using a bolt and penny washer to pull it into place Put epoxy on face of T-nut that goes onto back of baffle Used lightly oiled bolt and penny washer to pull T-nut into place, and left for a little while Put speaker in and didn't c0ck up putting in the bolts this time Just the grille to secure then.

Wiztard Roy Food or maybe Roy Woad ELO <=> ELP Bream Dours

I'm happy - GR Bass AT800 combo, HX Stomp, assorted basses, and a Tecamp Puma 900 plus Basschat house jam micro cab for open mics.

Bun Boy Three - playing a WI near you soon.

Some people find them useful, some don't. I have quite a few basses, only one of which had a ramp on, and on balance I preferred it without. As the ramp was simply wedged between the pickups, it could be removed and replaced non-destructively. I don't think that the use or absence of a ramp is indicative of the skill level of the player.

The hole's already the right size, there's just a groove round it where the teeth of the T-nut go. I was inclined to go with gluing the T-nut in place as @stevie says, if I put the araldite on the wood-facing surface of the T-nut (after making sure that it's got a good thread), put a little 3-in-1 onto the bolt thread in case of accidents, and pull it into place with bolt and washer, that should do the job.

I have a B2AV with Hohner-branded jazz pickups, which I assume is the Mk II. Before that I had a B2V, passive with those pickups, which sounded rather thinner than the B2AV. I had to replace the active preamp in the B2AV as it wasn't working well, can't remember what I used - I think it may have been a Delano Sonar.

But some people like them, just like some misguided people actually like headstocks.

Teddy Lee of Tush.

That's a bit sad, I remember meeting it at a Moffat bass bash.

Yes, I wonder if they'll do a 5er. I was searching for Sqoe headlesses and happened across a webpage about headlesses which was obviously written by an imbecile. If you want a laugh (Fender being a leading manufacturer of headless basses, headless basses having short string length, headless basses mostly being cricket bats, and many other examples of complete ignorance) have a look at https://www.bassox.com/headless-bass-guitars/

Cracking amps. I kept mine when I sold the BB2 and went to a combo, and it's getting used with a BC house jam microcab 6" cab now. I thought mine might have got hot and shut down (I was wrong, it was the 4x10 cab I had at the time blowing a speaker or two) and Thomas Eich helped me with fitting a small fan inside which the later Puma 900s have. I don't think it was necessary, as it turns out.

Having finally restored my morale sufficiently to attack the bolt with a Dremel (it succumbed quickly enough once I decided to not be a wuss and whack the thing up to full speed), and refinished the back where I put the corner protector screw holes in the wrong place, I now have the task of putting the speaker in again. I think one other T-nut didn't want to thread up properly so I shall check them all. This does leave me with the problem of the knackered one, as my endeavours to extract the bolt have basically cut a moat around the hole so I'm not sure that there's anything for a replacement T-nut to bite on at the moment. Would Araldite, the goddess of mending things, work? And if so, smear it over and into the moat and let it cure before putting the T-nut in, or fix the T-nut in place using it?

It seems a lot of work to go to to rescue a body, especially if it's plywood.