neepheid

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Bleh - mutated photoshopped Jazz into Precision - why?

Welcome to the forum

You might as well try your bridge wire on a pot casing. Perhaps your shielding is not as complete as you think.

[quote name='alexharvay' post='462883' date='Apr 15 2009, 12:12 PM']How wide is the neck on the Les Paul basses?[/quote] 44mm at the nut, at least on the Epi it is.

Heh, I'm in the Gibson Little League with my Epiphone Les Paul Standard bass. But I love it, mostly the neck, but also the fact that it is quite unusual to see one out and about. I didn't love the stock pickups though, so I put some EMG-HBs in it I can't leave a bass alone.

[quote name='juayman' post='462604' date='Apr 14 2009, 11:43 PM']Many thanks for this link. I am getting about 33% or so on first try. It can be frustrating at times but great when you get a few correct in a row lol Cheers[/quote] The biggest baw-ache is getting the interval right but the major/minor wrong. Finding out what a tritone is might aid my understanding also.

Welcome to the forum

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='462034' date='Apr 14 2009, 12:36 PM']Aha I see. I wish it was a typo. But no, I'm genuinely a '66 vintage. [/quote] Aye, 1066

Huh, my basses are worth much more than I am, certainly in monetary terms - if only I could stop tweaking and twiddling at them! As for my playing being worth anything - I suspect the only reason I'm in the band is because the guitarist doesn't have 4 arms

From what I can see, where you've gone wrong is that (according to the Kent Armstrong pdf you posted up earlier) the black wire from the pickup is hot and the white is earth. Yes, I know this colour scheme makes no logical sense, but according to that reference, you've got the hot output of the pickup going to the volume pot casing and the earth going to the volume control. Read it again and double check, but that's what I've read - several times now. I presume that red wire coming from the jack socket is going to the bridge?

It's strange - I am conservative and I'm not. Conservative when it comes to body shapes etc., constant tinkerer when it comes to hardware and internals. Current body shapes - P, LP, Bronco/Musicmaster/Mustang, even my custom build is a modified P type shape (non-offset waist, slightly altered horns). I suppose the LP is radical in the sense that not many famous players use one. When it comes to the hardware/internals, nothing is safe! I've just put EMG-HBs in my Epi Les Paul bass and I'm waiting on the arrival of a BQC Control for 3 band EQ madness

Definitely the middle one.

[quote name='spinynorman' post='459372' date='Apr 10 2009, 03:19 PM']I've got an old Spector Rebop, which is a natural oiled finish. It's just a rather grubby lump of alder, which isn't the most exciting wood visually. I'm wondering about a refin and what to use and sources of material. I know about Reranch in the US, but they can't ship anything flammable. Is there an equivalent here?[/quote] Manchester Guitar Tech does cans of nitro lacquer, bit pricey but seems to work well. [url="http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/lacquer.html"]http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/lacquer.html[/url]

Just a wee update to say that the rag tag pot I had lying around has been replaced with a nice CTS one, and it now has the correct length strings on it.

Again, not familiar with alternatives. Yes, great piece of kit, has proven indispensable on many occasions, for headphone practice, slowing down songs, changing pitch, emphasising bass, cutting bass for playing along. Simply a Swiss army knife of a practice tool. Handy hint - if you have a PSP, you can use its power supply, the plug and the voltage/polarity/current supplied are perfect for it. Criticisms - changing key/tempo can sound a bit odd/warbly. If you want a permanent shift, you'd be better loading the MP3 into Audacity and using the tools there to make the change and re-uploading the file to the Tascam.

[quote name='JPAC' post='457148' date='Apr 8 2009, 10:32 AM']OK green added but here's lots of other colours. [/quote] I was only winding you up. I really do want to make a surf green bass though. I have an idea germinating which involves an old Ibanez (allegedly), Hagstrom pickups and surf green nitrocellulose lacquer.

No specific love for Surf Green? Poor show!

P all the way, don't like Jazz necks, and I don't really like the way Jazzes look either, at least not standard ones with the huge "look at me" chrome control plate.

Welcome to the forum

[quote name='Shire' post='456289' date='Apr 7 2009, 12:02 PM']Phew from me too lol I am going to use the original knobs (which I have) which have grub screws in Thanks for your help, its much appreciated Do you think I could use a P=bass wiring diagram and slightly modify it? I can't find any musicmaster diagrams but I assume its the same principle? Actually, considering its a guitar pickup,, I might have problems with its infinite number of wires![/quote] Yeah, the P-bass diagram should work fine. As for your pickup, the diagram you linked to earlier suggests it has 4 wires + shield. The simplest wiring is to join the two ends of the coils in series then the remaining 2 are hot and earth. According to the diagrams, you'd need to join the green and red ones, leaving black (!) as hot and white and shield as earth. Then follow the rest of the diagram from there.

I've only just started recording our practice sessions, and only for band personal reference. To that end (because I'm a stingy git) I've only been using a minidisc recorder and a single microphone placed roughly in the middle of us all. I was pleasantly surprised with the results, not perfect - vocals were a little distant thanks to the PA speakers being situated behind the drummer and there was occasional clipping, not due to volume (if anything I was rather conservative with the recording level) but probably dynamic range limitations - but good enough for reference/mistake highlighting purposes. Can't help you with fancier stuff, sorry.

[quote name='Shire' post='456212' date='Apr 7 2009, 10:27 AM']Thanks for the heads up. I bought these ones: [url="http://www.guitarthings.co.uk/cts-cts-premium-250k-solid-shaft-pot-938-p.asp"]http://www.guitarthings.co.uk/cts-cts-prem...t-pot-938-p.asp[/url] Are they ok? Cheers, Matt[/quote] Yeah, they're audio taper. Phew. Remember that you'll need screw fit knobs for these pots (the ones with grub screws for attaching) - press fit knobs won't work.

[quote name='leschirons' post='456145' date='Apr 7 2009, 09:23 AM']If they have exposed pole peices, you will see 4 on the 4 string pickups and five on the 5 string pickups. Don't these need to be in line with the strings? (directly under each string) This has always been an issue with guitars when I've had pickups changed in the past. The 5 string pickups may also be longer and you wouldn't want to have to rout out the body. I would look in the marketplace section for some good secondhand 4 stringers.[/quote] Yeah Fender - does a Musicmaster bass have 6 strings? In general, to save pain 2 things need to be true for a painless change. 1) physical size of the pickup has to be the same/damn near the same and 2) rail polepieces will make sure that strings are covered, with some provisos - if the rail is straight across the whole pickup, no problem. If it's split like a Precision pickup (like the EMG P soapbars for instance) then you need to make sure the split is in the middle for a 4 string bass.