neepheid

+1 I concur.

[quote name='The Burpster' post='196393' date='May 11 2008, 10:41 AM']Neeph.... Yep your right sorry, it was a badly phrased question. I have mine on charge (I think) ornage light on but not switched on... deos it go out when the internal cell is fully charged? Thx.[/quote] Dunno - I'll let you know in the next few hours

[quote name='The Burpster' post='196366' date='May 11 2008, 10:02 AM']OK chapsters.... Having just acquired one of these... (curiousity) does plugging in teh external power source charge teh internal battery as well? Or does that only happen thru the mini USB port?[/quote] I believe the question is whether it charges [i]while[/i] being used on external power. This I will find out - mine's on 2 out of 3 battery bars at the moment - just plugged it into the mains while it's actually on. Will leave it for a while and see if the battery is fully charged when I unplug it. I reckon it does - when it's on and using battery power, the orange light is off. When it's on and powered externally, the orange light is on.

It would appear that the power adaptors are electronically identical to all intents and purposes. If the plug fits, it should be fine

Welcome to the forum. Wish I'd started when you have

I don't have much of a sweet tooth - when some people crave chocolate, I'd rather have a piece of cheese I'll see if I can turn up something local - No joy on the local Freecycle yesterday, but I'll ask again soon. However, if nothing is forthcoming I'll get back to you warwickhunt - I really don't mind paying for postage, I'm much more interested in the tin than the (former) contents.

Welcome to the forum

Well enough built, some corners cut obviously (the use of linear pots for example - yuck). +1 for the active comment, I added an Artec SE-2A to my MM3, much better now. See here for some improved OLPs - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=14009"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=14009[/url]

Welcome to the forum

You anywhere near a Maplin shop? They'd be able to help you out - go to them with a voltage and a current and you'll get something suitable. I'm powering a Zoom 607 multi fx and a massaging chair with their adaptors, no probs. Get one with the exchangeable plugs rather than the 4 way all in one "star" plug - neater and tidier. And MAKE SURE YOU GET THE POLARITY RIGHT

Hi there I'm in need of a large tin, like something that sweets or cookies were kept in. Anyone got a circular tin which is at least 10" in diameter and at least 6" deep. Happy to pay postage to get it, it won't cost too much if it's empty Cheers

[url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/pdfs/support/schematics/std_pbass.pdf"]http://www.seymourduncan.com/pdfs/support/...s/std_pbass.pdf[/url] Make sure you get logarithmic or audio taper pots, linear pots are "all or nothing" to human ears.

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='193972' date='May 7 2008, 04:06 PM']The fan at the front of my SVT-CL is a bit noisy (I know this is quite normal) but I was wondering if there’s any way I can change it for a silent fan cos it can be a bit annoying. Does anyone know how/if it could be done and what fan I should use?[/quote] I'd get a look at the label on the fan, which ought to tell you at the very least what voltage you need (not to mention the physical size of the fan - wouldn't like to speculate on that). You might be able to find its specs online via a model number to give you an idea of speed (RPM) and airflow (CFM) you'd need from a replacement fan. The typical fan info online often lists noise too (dBA) and so you can hopefully find something that pushes a similar amount of air for less noise.

[quote name='Jobiebass' post='193842' date='May 7 2008, 01:30 PM']I checked that site the other day actually, but I just thought it was expensive, I mean, £18 for a black SP? then posting, hummm, seams a lot of a piece of plastic. its £10 just for the plastic which I also thinks quite expensive for what it is. Might wait around and see if anyones selling a 2nd hand one or if i get bored at the guitard shop this weekend I might pick one up if they have one in.[/quote] Postage is free from axesrus, if that's any help.

Take it out and photograph it?

I think I'll get the underside of the pickguard painted in the appropriate places to mask the internal gubbins.

Welcome to the forum

I like the custom pickguard, coupled with the chrome control cavity cover. Seems like a modern take on the original P-bass

You get these minimalist covers: I toyed with the idea of using them in my fretless project, but decided to go down the clear route, so as not to obscure any of my sister's artwork.

[quote name='Buzz' post='191871' date='May 4 2008, 09:51 PM']Brush painted? Wouldn't it have been easier to spray it then just smooth it off with 800 grit, rather than wet sand it? Either way, I can't wait to see what you're sister will do to it.[/quote] Yes, it would have been easier. But it was a case of "I've started so I'll finish". Good practice to try other things anyway.

[quote name='Wooks' post='191774' date='May 4 2008, 07:08 PM']I know this might be a bit of dumb question to ask but if you want to replace a bridge and the screw holes on the new one don't match up with the old one can you move it forward or backward to fix the new bridge? Will this have an adverse effect on the intonation at all? Plus does anybody know how difficult/easy is it to convert your bridge into a string through body type bridge system? Would this need to be done by a luthier or can you do it yourself?[/quote] Lots of questions. When fitting a completely different type of bridge, you must disregard the old holes entirely and fit it where it's supposed to go. That is dictated by scale length. You mark on the body the scale length, take the new bridge, set the saddles almost as far forward as they'll go, then place the bridge where the saddles are in line with the scale length. The existing holes should be filled. One way to do this is to take some 3-4mm hardwood dowel, drill the holes out to the size of the dowels, drop some wood glue in the hole, then insert the dowels. The fit should be tight, need to mallet them in gently. Test on scrap wood to match your drill to your dowels. Mark the new holes, and drill appropriate width holes for the bridge screws. Putting the bridge anywhere else could jeopardise your ability to intonate properly. Through body stringing? If you're prepared to drill big holes in your bass body. You will need to use a drill press - you do not have a hope of drilling the holes straight with a hand drill. You insert bushings in the rear of the body - metal cups to accept the ball ends of the strings. The main thing I would recommend is to measure well, and practice drilling holes on scrap wood. Drill one set of holes too big and your screws won't bite and you'll have to fill them and re-drill. Annoying.

That's the front and the back sanded. I'm reasonably pleased with the surface that my sis will have to paint upon. The sides are proving a little more difficult - the paint has not been applied evenly, and I've sanded through a couple of places Well, live and learn.

Welcome to the forum

That's the last time I brush paint. Still, today I learned the joys of wet sanding. It will be flat enough for my sister to do some arty stuff on in the next week or so.