neepheid

[quote name='tauzero' post='202248' date='May 19 2008, 04:29 PM']Or chop the headstock end off between the G and D strings.[/quote] Some quality cat skinning going on here

If you buy it at the BIN price (£114.91), you'll end up paying around about the following: purchase price: £114.91 postage: £40 (approx $80) total for tax purposes: £154.91 import duty: waived (less than £7) VAT: £27.11 TOTAL: £182.02 (+ whatever fee the thieving courier adds on for collecting the fee from you) I doubt the customs will fail to notice a bass guitar

[quote name='bassman2790' post='201620' date='May 18 2008, 05:36 PM']I have recently acquired a Jap Precision in what appears to be either a Tobacco or Vintage sunburst. The 'tort' guard on it is predominantly red which looks out of place so I would like to replace it. I've looked on a few websites and they all seem to say the same thing.... [i]"These pickguards will only fit US made basses. They will not fit any other"[/i] Or [i]"Will fit US or Mex basses. Will not fit Jap basses"[/i] Will someone please tell me [list=1] [*]What's the difference? [*]Where do I get a pickguard that will fit my bass? [/list] Thanks in advance. Mark[/quote] Differences? Screw hole positions, cut out for heel end truss rod adjustment or not, screw holes for thumb rest/pup cover. If you want one exactly the same, then WD Music can do you one from an accurate tracing of your current one.

Looks great man, and I wouldn't grouse too much about the pickguard - personally I think white suits most dark colours. It's sharp and it's smart, like a dark suit and a white shirt

Well, reading that has put me in a good mood for the day. Until I drive somewhere

[quote name='ashgeezer' post='200216' date='May 16 2008, 10:18 AM']cheers for the info, would it be possible put a tuner on the bottonm edge like the actual stingrays.[/quote] Don't see any reason why not, except you'll have to buy a left handed tuning machine to do it "properly" (might be an opportunity to upgrade the tuners? Buy a 3+1 set of Schallers, Hipshots or Gotohs?). Plug up the end hole as I outlined (but unless you do something sneaky like finish the headstock face in a solid colour or layer a veneer over the top you'll see the plug). Position the tuner shaft so that there's no undue lateral pressure on the G string after it passes through the nut. Then you might have a bit more material to work with.

It's not an angled back neck, so unless you do something extremely radical you're unlikely to weaken it. I don't know if you'll achieve that more "traditional" (I presume you mean "Fender") look - it's easy to take wood away, not so easy to put it back. If you're moving the tuners then you'll need to plug the holes - see my [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=15272"]Zebrano Wideboy 5 build diary[/url] for some insight into that. You might be able to squeeze a telebass type shape out of it, but as I mentioned above, it'll be kinda truncated as the existing headstock is rather tapered at the end. P.S. - this ought to be in the Repairs and Technical Issues forum

[quote name='squire5' post='199933' date='May 15 2008, 09:14 PM']Can somebody put me right.There are various neck radius's(radii?).OK?This then means that there are various neck widths.OK Then that means there are various sized nuts.I have a '69 Precision which needs a new nut.I ordered one from a company on Ebay,tried to put it on today,and find that it's too small.ie short lengthwise,and smaller string spacing.Tried it on my mates '76 P-bass.Fits perfectly!The odd thing is,it fits my J-bass to a tee .Does anybody know the various neck dimensions of the Precision,or what size nut I should be looking for. Thanx guys.[/quote] Try a Tusq nut? Measure it yourself, then have a poke around Graphtech's site to find a suitable one. Take a note of the model number then search for it on eBay.

If it's a "kettle lead" (IEC mains lead to be exact) then it would be much preferable to replace this with a UK one. If the lead is built in, then replace the 2 pin European plug with a UK one. Dismantle it or simply hack it off. 2 pin plugs are a little wobbly sitting in a travel adaptor. Not as bad as power adaptors, but it's just another potential point of failure.

[quote name='Exile252' post='199822' date='May 15 2008, 06:52 PM']Where is the best place to buy some? I'm having a hard time trying to find some 5 string ones. I'm mainly looking for a Humbucker (Like on a Musicman). I'm gonna also check how much it'll be for a hole to be made for it hehe. Thanks guys[/quote] For starters: [url="http://www.axiomatic-music.co.uk/acatalog/Bass_Guitar_Pickups.html"]http://www.axiomatic-music.co.uk/acatalog/...ar_Pickups.html[/url] [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/pickups_for_basses.html"]http://www.thomann.de/gb/pickups_for_basses.html[/url]

[quote name='BassManKev' post='199624' date='May 15 2008, 02:44 PM']nah theres not a LOT to be taken off, main problem is it not being deep enough, and so strings rest on frets (i held neck in pocket and semi strung the g sttring just to test).under closer analysis it appears to be a precision neck (1.7 in at nut), which may explain why it doesnt fit. sanding probably is all thats needed, but the level of accuracy in your sanding would have to be pretty high im guessing to keep it all even, which is why i dont wanna do it myself. id really rather avoid paying luthiers lots of money for this as its only a cheap parts bass im building, i just got the neck for a steal off ebay, luthier made with a nitro finish n lovely wood, and i wanna use it [/quote] Nut width has no bearing on this problem. What you are suggesting is that the neck heel is deeper than the neck coming off. You could raise the action on the bridge to compensate. I thought you meant that it was having difficulty locating in the existing neck pocket because it was too wide.

[quote name='BassManKev' post='199420' date='May 15 2008, 11:22 AM']bought a jazz neck off ebay to fit to my westfield bodied bass recieved through the post, lovely neck nicely nitro lacquered, but the neck pocket isnt big enough on the westfield, its not deep enough and its not long enough. how can i make the neck pocket bigger, without ruinin my bass?? it seems above my head, but i really dont wanna pay alot of money to fix the bass at a luthiers any help?[/quote] If it only needs a little extra, you might get away with sanding it out. If it needs a lot, you need a router. You could ruin your bass body, but only if you're careless. Take some accurate measurements and find out exactly what needs doing.

Hi there I landed a Hartke HA3500 head recently, and thought I had been right clever in fixing the non-working valve preamp by identifying and replacing a burned out resistor - the 200V feed to the valve wasn't getting through as a result. However, I'm getting some hum only on the valve side, so I'm thinking that maybe one of the capacitors in this section is faulty (might explain the burned out resistor also). Here's the portion of the schematic: It was R407 which blew. This leads me to believe that C415 is involved, but I'd probably just replace all three capacitors to be sure. None of them appear bad, no bulging tops or the like, but seeing as their purpose is to smooth the power feed, I'd say any of them could be suspect. How's my logic going?

Now I feel a little better about (properly) starting at 31 - thanks for that Welcome to the forum!

There's a guide on the wiki: [url="http://wiki.basschat.co.uk/info:buying:importing_gear"]http://wiki.basschat.co.uk/info:buying:importing_gear[/url] Also has links to the letter of the law on the matter, the rather impenetrable UK customs and excise website.

Seller claims the serial number is 316312

Ask the owner whether they want to play it or look at it. If they want to play it then they'll be happy for you to use similar but not necessarily "period correct" parts. The best thing to do is communicate. If they insist upon it being 100% correct, be prepared to spend lots of time (and money) trawling eBay and even more obscure sources trying to find the right stuff. I've recently been restoring a Hagstrom bass, and the owner has been prepared to let a few things go in the interest of making it a playable instrument, like modern slide switches, new nitrocellulose finish (as opposed to artificially aging with tinted clearcoats) when the originals might not even have used nitro (don't know offhand). But I wasn't prepared to compromise on a few esoteric Hagstrom touches, like the 3 screw jackplate. That took a while to track down, and I had to buy a whole wrecked bass to get it.

[quote name='philbillbass' post='198258' date='May 13 2008, 08:55 PM']Is this the typical squire logo for a squire or is it just and older style one The serial number is kv97092007 so does this mean it is a korean made model? Any info greatly appreciated. Phil [attachment=8641:CIMG1753.JPG][/quote] I concur: That is a Korean Jazz which I used to own.

[quote name='Starvolt' post='198269' date='May 13 2008, 09:09 PM']Seems the same as mine (bought in 2007).[/quote] They are nothing alike. Your Squier logo is solid, the one in question is gold and outlined in black. The "by Fender" underneath your Squier logo is an actual Fender logo, the one in question has it in capital letters. Yours says "J BASS", the one in question has "JAZZ BASS" spelled out. The fonts are different. The only similar thing is the maple behind the logo.

[quote name='BassInMyFace' post='197873' date='May 13 2008, 12:15 PM']would anyone know where to start on adding in my own post eq(preamp) but pre-power amp input??? its obviously possible as the cube 30 has one. does it need various resistors/capacitors/transistors or would it be a simple matter of finding the right place to whack it in?? i know its a bit rash but im desperate and i really like the amp and dont wanna lose money on the resale.[/quote] Once again, I'd seriously recommend against it. Why are you so loathe to take the hit of having made a mistake? These things happen. Besides, if you've just got it then you should be able to sell it for what you paid for it. Or you could see if you could return it? All you've lost is time. You've gained the wisdom to thoroughly check specs before buying - particularly if you have a specific function in mind.

I don't know how to solve your problem, but I wouldn't go poking about inside - if it doesn't work out you'll ruin any resale value of the amp, then you'll be even further out of pocket. Hindsight is 20/20: Never assume anything, particularly about gear when it usually isn't too difficult to find all the tech specs and pictures on the interwebs. If you can't find the info - ask! Someone on here will likely know.

Epiphone did one, although it's not that common either. Edit: oh yeah, like the one in the post above :facepalm:

[quote name='mcruiz67' post='197395' date='May 12 2008, 07:04 PM']Hi, Here is a brief description of the stuff: Laney RB9 amp head: I had this for just over a year and it surprised me as i bought it to use until I bought my dream head but it is so reliable and sounds great (and pretty light) that I kept it. £95 Peavey TVX210 cab: I've had this for about 2 years again without any problems. In good working and looking cond. - £80 Peavey TVR410 cab: I've had this for just over a year and same result as above £90 Collection preferred for all drop me a line for more details Mike[/quote] Where are you based?

[quote name='Alien' post='197208' date='May 12 2008, 03:15 PM'][url="http://www.ibanez.co.jp/products/amp_page.php?area_id=3&ampl_id=63&year=2008&cat_id=5&series_id=97"]This[/url] is probably the smallest amp you'll get - they sound pretty dire though. Andy[/quote] Ha ha, I've got one of those. You can hear what note you're playing and that's about it