tm486

Hi, After getting Victor Wooten's Groove Workshop DVD for christmas, I have decided that I would like a drum machine. Unfortunately I can't find a decent clip of it, but what he uses the drum machine for is to allow one of the students to come up with a simple bassline to a 4 bar drum sample. He then gets the drum machine to play 3 bars and remain silent for the 4th. Then he goes one step further and gets it to play 2 bars on, 2 off. Then 1 on, 3 off. Finally it's just playing one beat and is silent for the rest of the 4 bars. I'm looking for a drum machine that will allow me to easily do this. My timing isn't bad, but this appears to be a good method of improving timing and helping it to become second nature. It would also be useful to practice Anthony Wellington's "yardstick" lesson. Does anyone know what drum machine Victor Wooten uses in this DVD or know of a drum machine that will do what I want? It may be something that all of them do, but despite googling and looking at the features of many different drum machines, it is not made clear that they can do this. Thanks in advance, Tom

[quote name='gmtx725' timestamp='1326372404' post='1496155'] That's the problem though, I won't be able to try out both. Maybe the Squier at my local music shop but not the SUB. So I'm trying to substitute trying them out with some advice from you guys on here. I've got big hands and long fingers, so a wide neck shouldn't be a problem. [/quote] Hi, Unfortunately, I think that no amount of advice from anyone, even some of the most experienced bassists on here, will guarantee that you end up with a bass that suits you perfectly. I spent a good few weeks looking for my first bass guitar and amp and i knew nothing about the bass at this point, i could play the riff to one song and one song only so i just repeated that in the shops feeling stupid. I tried new basses, second hand ones, precisions, jazzes, ibanez, everything within my price range. I ended up with an old bass collection sb310 (which i would definitely recommend trying if you get the chance). My point is that even though i couldn't really play anything and I didn't really know what to look for, i could still tell that this bass felt really comfortable. Over 5 years later and it's still my favourite bass, I love playing on my other basses but I still feel at home on this one. If you spend the time to find one which you instantly feel comfortable with, it'll last longer than a better bass which doesn't suit you quite as well. I also have long fingers and i currently own a precision which i do like, however whilst it's not a problem to play, i still feel more comfortable on the thinner neck of my bass collection. Another recommendation for the Marshall MB15, it's a really good sounding amp and i wish i had bought another one when i was looking for a second practice amp. One thing i would also say is very important is a decent set up. It gets said a lot on here, but i hated playing my precision and was going to sell it until i tried giving it a set up, even someone as inexperienced as me (and i really am) was able to get the bass to feel much nicer to the point where i really enjoyed playing it, just by following the instructions from threads on this site. Don't hesitate to buy a cheaper bass if you like the way it feels. Anyway, good luck with buying your first bass whatever it turns out to be. Tom

Unless you find that the rosin is making the area where you play pizzicato sticky, i'd be inclined to leave it. I bow way below where i pluck so this is not a problem for me. Leaving the rosin on the strings and leaving them sticky gives the bow better grip on the strings which makes it easier to get a better sound. Hope this helps, Tom

[quote name='LawrenceH' timestamp='1323786684' post='1467008'] Also, in case you haven't spotted it I have started a build diary over in the relevant subforum to construct a pair of lightweight 35 litre 1x10 speakers, using Celestion drivers but they'd work with the Eminence drivers - I try to explain my thinking behind it over there so perhaps it'd be useful if you're looking to do something at all similar. [/quote] I had noticed your build thread, I will certainly be following that. It was 1x10 build threads that prompted me to have a go myself. [quote name='LawrenceH' timestamp='1323786188' post='1467000'] The problem with doing this is that mechanical excursion of the woofer in the crucial 1st harmonic region gets considerable placing a practical limit on how loud you can go, while at the same time you lose sensitivity in that same region. The other issue is that tuning to this frequency requires quite a long port taking up further internal space. It's all a trade-off but personally with typical 10" drivers I'd place a greater priority on 60 to 100Hz region than 40-60. What are your priorities from a cabinet out of small, loud, deep? To get an answer to this question it helps to have a play around with speakers that have a really excellent smooth bass response to see the effect of boosting different frequencies on bass guitar. Decent headphones do a surprisingly good job here, certainly compared to typical small hifi speakers, but they won't thump you in the chest like a big subwoofer can! What amp and bass would you be using with these cabs? [/quote] I understand that cabinets are all a tradeoff of desirable properties, choosing 2 out of small, loud and bassy, I think that small and loud would be the two ideal parameters for me. At the moment my main bass is a bass collection sb310. I don't have an amplifier to use with these cabs but i would look at buying a small amp along the lines of a markbass or similar if they turn out well. I would be testing using the MAG 300 from my combo. Thanks again Tom

[quote name='LawrenceH' timestamp='1323737588' post='1466517'] Hi Tom, The Deltalite has a cast frame, which is generally a sign of a higher-spec driver (though what this means in practice varies). The extra thermal wattage rating means it'll go a little bit louder overall but the performance of each speaker at bass frequencies is limited to about the same output level due to how much the cone moves back and forth. For modelling the low frequency behaviour of the loudspeakers, the Thiele-Small parameters included on the manufacturer's datasheet (together with Xmax which indicates cone excursion linear limit) can be plugged into software like WinISD pro alpha (free). This lets you see the effect of box size and port tuning, and also indicates how long a port should be for a given tuning, box volume and port diameter. For a 1x10 speaker ~35 litres internal volume tuned to about 50-55Hz is a reasonable starting point for both these drivers IMO. The Deltalite will have slightly more of a 'hump' in the response around 100Hz, which can be quite effective at conveying an impression of 'bassiness', but the difference is pretty small. For a single 1x10 I'd personally use the Deltalite but for a 2x10 (say, 70 litres also tuned to ~50Hz) I'd consider using two s2012s to save a bit of cash and also weight, you have the potential for a very light cab there. You could go a bit smaller or a bit larger for these cabs, doing that will decrease or increase the bass response respectively. [/quote] Hi Lawrence, I'm quite looking forward to a build like this, i've looked into the box construction but can't download WinISD until this weekend when i have access to a PC. Will there be any large benefit to having the box tuned to 41Hz or will this increase the box size too much? Any other tips constuction wise for someone building a cab for the first time? Even though it is just a small one. Thanks for your help, much appreciated. Tom

Hi, I am totally new to cab building and just fancy giving it a try, so forgive any stupid questions please. I am thinking of building 1 or 2 1x10 bass cabs mainly just to give it a go, and I’ve come up with a few questions. I’ve been looking at a pair of eminence deltalite 2510 ii’s or a pair of eminence basslite s2010’s. I’ve been looking at the specs and they seem to be fairly similar; my question is which is better suited to bass guitar or what would the main noticeable differences be between the two choices? Also how would I calculate the port size and length to make a ported enclosure? Thanks in advance for any help, Tom

Up until now I have been solely a bedroom bassist, but recently I had my very first band practice with a new band I’m forming, which so far only consists of drums, bass and a singer, but we are looking for a guitarist. We played through one pre-arranged song, which went well, I was really enjoying playing with real people as opposed to playing along with a CD. Then we decided to try a song both the drummer and I knew. Whilst the singer was finding the lyrics, the drummer and I just played together. I have never played with a drummer before but it was fantastic. We didn’t play a song, just sort of improvised, but it was so easy to play together, it just sort of meshed effortlessly if that makes sense. It was genuinely the greatest experience I have ever had playing bass and it made me feel like a much better player. I cannot wait for the next rehearsal. So, I was wondering, what is your best bass related experience? Meeting or watching your bass hero at a gig? Or maybe playing a certain gig yourself? Or just a simple rehearsal or learning a new song. Cheers, Tom

Deep kick are an RHCP style band, they don't have a huge amount of music out yet but they have a few EP's and a few singles on Itunes.

Really fancy one of these, not much info on them and I haven't seen anyone with one. [url="http://www.christof-kost.de/CKvV%28E%29/menuframe.html"]http://www.christof-kost.de/CKvV%28E%29/menuframe.html[/url] Also fancy trying the lightwave system on something. Tom

Love davidsinrocks, he is insane and has made rhcp one of my favourite bands. Which might be why i also love this guy who i believe is a member here. ViaceslavSvedov [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQhtka5u-Mk&feature=related"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQhtka5u-Mk...feature=related[/url] Check out his other videos, they are all just as energetic and fun.

I often record myself when I play just for my own benefit, i find that listening to myself play helps me to improve. Maybe by recording yourself and listening back to it you might be able to find a way to improve. Other than that, just keep listening and practicing. Good luck. Tom

I'd go for a Bass collection. There is an SB301 in the for sale section at the moment for £150 and i absolutely love my active version. It plays fantastically and leaves room for any upgrades you want to do when you can afford it. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=145758"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=145758[/url] there is the passive one. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=152026"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=152026[/url] there is the active one if you can stretch a bit further. They seem to me to be really well made and i prefer mine to my ibanez sr500. Tom

[quote name='escholl' post='1305272' date='Jul 15 2011, 10:19 PM']Is it an open back jack socket inside? Sometimes you can just bend the connector bits back into shape, and whilst you're at it give them a bit of a clean.[/quote] Its a barrel type jack. I think i'll try replacing that then. Cheers Tom

Hi, I have a Bass Collection SB310 from 1995. I bought it about 4 years ago as my first bass guitar and it has had this problem pretty much since I bought it. I never did anything about it as it was only ever used for practice. Having finally joined a band, I would like to repair it as losing signal and producing loud crackling might not go down too well. The problem is that the bass doesn't always produce a signal. I have to fiddle with the cable position to get a signal and this produces lots of crackling. I found that tucking the cable behind the strap helped a little bit, but it doesn't eliminate it. Taking the back plate off reveals solid soldering and no loose connections. I have used 3 different cables with it but the problem remains. Thanks in advance, Tom

I started on piano when I was pretty young, but I wanted to try something new. It was between the saxophone and the double bass as I loved the sounds they made. Against my mums request I went for the larger of the two and instantly got on with it so much better than I ever did with piano. I found that piano became a chore to practice, but bass never did. About 3 years later I decided to get a bass guitar and I loved that even more, and I still have the very first bass I bought. I think I definitely got on with it better because I had an instrument that felt wonderful to play, and still does. But it was the sound of the double bass that persuaded me to pick one up, and that sound still ensures that I don't just stick to the bass guitar. Tom

[quote name='Ed_S' post='1240980' date='May 22 2011, 10:43 PM']I got up to grade 7ish (playing) as an orchestral violinist before ditching it and taking up bass. I could sight-read very well back then, but it only ever made any sense in direct relation to the fingering for a violin, so as soon as I stopped, that was the end of it.[/quote] Same here, I learnt double bass before I ever got a bass guitar and I used to play in a large concert band where I was the only db'er. I often struggled to keep up when they played pieces that older members of the band all knew. After a while I got used to sight reading at speed, and eventually I got fairly good at sight reading whilst transposing, as they rarely had sheet music written for the double bass, which I hated. Weirdly however, I struggle to sight read for the bass guitar. I generally just transferred everything I learnt on the db across to the bass guitar but I never got used to sight reading with it. I wish I had had a few lessons when I switched, as I think I may have developed some poor techniques. With regards to theory, I know some but wish i knew more is definitely the right category. Whilst I hated learning it, I would love to be better at it as I am sure that there are whole area's where it could improve my playing. Interesting thread, first actual poll I have seen on the topic. Cheers Tom

I used to get my double bass into a 2000 VW passat. It wasn't easy but it went in there. I think as far as saloons go, the 7 series is a fairly large one, lwb or not. I should imagine you'll have no trouble. Just don't leave it too late, far too many times I remember rushing to get it into that car to get to an exam, knowing that it fits, just not remembering how. Luckily I passed my test and bought a hatchback before I ever had to get to a regular band practice with it. Good luck with the double bass though, I hope you enjoy it. Tom

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='1230526' date='May 13 2011, 10:41 PM']Tom, I've no idea who you are but your last point cuts through the cr4p as I was trying to do towards the end of my previous reply... the bass sits with your neighbour; why the deflection tactics Ron?[/quote] I am fairly new to this forum, but there are so many points that the seller has raised that made no sense to me, so i am genuinely just interested to see his reply. I really hope this gets sorted out soon for you. Cheers Tom

Ronz, i assume you can read this as you managed to request that someone posted here on your behalf. This is also my first post on this subject, but I have been following, and feel the need to reply to the post on your behalf. 1.Whilst I see your point about us all judging you from one side of the story, the majority of people on this forum are great, genuine, trustworthy people who I would have no hesistations on dealing with, in fact a quick check in the feedback section will show you that warwickhunt has nothing but good comments. For this reason we are likely to trust him on what he has said. 2.[color="#FF0000"]“I sold the bass in good faith and it did not have the extent of cracks that are pictured. There may have been laquer cracks but nothing more than that. Those are the first pictures I have seen of them at that extent.”[/color] In the listing, you made absolutely no reference to these cracks, yet here you are admitting they were there when you sent it. At the very least that is not describing the item accurately, so we are instantly inclined to believe warwickhunt as he has not been proven to lie outright as of yet. 3.Nobody has said that you didn't send the item insured for the full amount, it was merely mentioned that if you sent it via the courier stated in your listing, then they don't insure anything over around £200. This may have been a mistake, but they did say 'if'. 4. 5. 6.If you are honest, then you have absolutely nothing to worry about. The intimidation, if there was any, was to try and get you to refund him if you are in possession of the bass, as this would be a criminal offence. There is suspicion that you actually have the bass, and are just trying to get to keep your money and the bass. That is all said intimidation was trying to achieve. 7.This has been covered. UPS delivered to number 19. warwickhunt ensures us that you have been informed of this. 8.Obviously nobody would refund someone for a bass that hasn't been returned (correct me if I am wrong). 9.Having a signature series with the manufacturer proves literally nothing. A common trait among scammers is greed. So tell me exactly how having two overwaters helps to dispel any thoughts that you would be a scammer? Not all scammers have to be serial scammers, they are opportunists. 10.The buyer has not once claimed otherwise. He has stated that you have offered a full refund upon receiving the bass, and I truly hope that being unable to contact the person living at number 19 is the only problem. I apologise if I have offended anyone here, or if I have made any mistakes in what I have written. The point I am most intrigued about is number 2. I would like to know how you claim to be trustworthy when there was no mention of the cracks shown in the ebay listing, yet they are clearly there. Tom

[quote name='woodyratm' post='1198940' date='Apr 14 2011, 12:12 AM']But I've not tried the 'ray with my Deep Impact and Wooly Mammoth or Mastatron. Anyone use two different basses (active + passive) for live work with these type of compressing pedals?[/quote] Hey, I believe the mastatron has an impedance buffer built in. The relax/push knob is designed so that when turned fully to push it is clear, perfect for passive basses, but when its set fully to relax, it acts like an impedance buffer and helps your active basses to work better. I haven't tried the mastotron so i don't know how well it works but i was interested in it a while back. With regards to the mammoth, i am having the exact same problem. I have 2 active basses and a passive bass, all of which react differently with the mammoth. I posted a thread in this forum a few weeks back and got replies from people giving lots of helpful idea's. The simplest idea was essentially a variable resistor inline between your bass and the pedals. Pedals like the woolly mammoth like to see a high impedance, which is measured in ohm's, so increasing the resistance in series with your instrument cable, should allow the pedal to see the input impedance it likes and work as you expect with your passive basses. Unfortunately, as i am home from uni over easter, i have no active basses with me, only a cheap passive one, so i haven't bothered to build it yet. Essentially what i was told to try was literally to put a potentiometer between two input jacks. I don't know which size to try, so i have bought 470k and 1M and i will try both and see which works better. I go back to uni in may, so that'll be the soonest i get to try this with an active bass, i'll let you know how it turns out and if it works for me. Tom

[quote name='GarethFlatlands' post='1186332' date='Apr 3 2011, 12:06 AM']Not sure what you mean about the pots, and not 100% sure I'd be able to help as you've said you want to make a slightly different circuit with footswitching and an LED. My DIY pedal skills aren't good, having not got round to building any pedals ever, despite meaning to. Maybe someone else with a bit more experience can offer some assistance?[/quote] Hi, The original idea was to create something with a switch and an LED, but i have since decided that this isnt necessary as i can just reduce the resistance until it is negligible using the pot. i think i'll just experiment with it until it works. the website you provided about the variable resistor was helpful though. Thanks Tom