Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

TRBboy

⭐Supporting Member⭐
  • Posts

    2,519
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by TRBboy

  1. I guess that the G&L or Lakland are gonna be the most versatile choices, but they're all decent basses. Personally, I wouldn't go for the MIM P because I don't think the Mexican Fenders are particularly good for the money. I would say it's definitely a step down in quality from all the others. A Jazz has been my mainstay for the last 14 years, despite many other basses coming and going, so I guess I would recommend that although I do really like the Laklands. The neck on the G&L feels a little too clumsy for me, despite being a well built and great sounding bass. If the neck is the only thing holding you back with the Schecter, just take some 1200 grit sandpaper to it and it'll be silky smooth! Hope this helps.
  2. Easy. "The HB4 features a 30.75" scale length neck" That's why it feels floppy.
  3. [quote name='LawrenceH' post='1159729' date='Mar 12 2011, 07:15 PM']It's a bloody great lump of solid wood and metal! Unless there's a defective glue or welding joint then it'd be damn hard to damage any correctly designed neck with even the most cavalier truss adjustments, with the exception of forcing it when the rod is seized or beyond its range.[/quote] A bass is usually a pretty sturdy instrument, and in most cases you would have to do something pretty stupid to damage the neck. IMO it is best to adjust the TR with the strings tuned up, as the whole point of the truss rod is to counter the tension of the strings. When adjusting it, you want to be able to 'feel' these forces acting against each other. I never usually bother with the whole 'wait for x amount of time' thing - you just need to be sure that the TR is moving. I usually give it a tweak, and then let the bass hang with your hand just under the headstock. Use the heel of your other hand to firmly tap up and down the neck - if your TR is a bit stuck this will help to make sure it has moved. You can even physically bend the neck a little in the required direction to make sure it is moving.
  4. The Rees F-Light is just under 3kg/6lb! I would expect the ash-bodied SR600 to be slightly lighter than the SR500.
  5. Have you seen the Rees F-Light basses? They've pretty much been designed specifically for players who need a lighter bass due to injury or whatever. [url="http://www.rees-electric-guitars.com/index.html"]http://www.rees-electric-guitars.com/index.html[/url] They're goo value too - £775 for a British hand-built bass! The slightly more 'normal' looking version, the Big F-Light is still lighter than most basses and had a very good review in BGM a while back. Might be worth checking out.
  6. I used to love using black nylon tapewounds on my fretless. Very smooth, deep tone and about as close as you can get to an upright sound on a bass guitar.
  7. [quote name='longtimefred' post='1157352' date='Mar 10 2011, 10:31 PM']Bet they would if you wanted them to. [/quote] Looking at the custom section on their website they'll do whatever you want if you've got the bucks to do it. Don't much like the idea of a two string bass though! The neck must feel like a broom handle!
  8. Ok, so I took the Sandberg to band rehearsal last night. WOW WOW WOW!!! It sounded amazing through my Mark Bass rig! I have no more doubts about the preamp. Killer slap tone and awesome funky fingerstyle. There is a real sweet spot between the pickup and fretboard which is much fuller, gutsier and growlier, so I think I may have to stick a thumbrest on it. Tried playing off the end of the fretboard but it just wasn't right. It Hung so well on the strap and was so comfortable to play, i really didn't feel like i'd been stood playing for 3 hours. The passive mode is very usable too and the output levels between active and passive are very well matched. Everything about it is perfect, I would highly recommend one to anyone who is looking for something other than the norm, but still has a familiar feel and is a good compromise between trad and modern.
  9. TRBboy

    Yamaha BBs

    I've had a 414 (which I put a gotoh bridge and aguilar preamp in) and a 614 fretless, both of which were fantastic for the money, but then I'm a massive yamaha fan anyway. However, if I had enough money to buy a 2024 I think there would be a lot of basses above it on the wish list!
  10. I hate to be a bore, but i've said it before and i'll say it again: The best budget bass by a long shot is the Yamaha RBX270 is unbeatable for the money, IMHO. It's solidly built, with a solid alder body, slim comfortable neck, but is lighter and more comfortable than a traditional jazz or p bass type. They do it in a lovely natural finish, which would suit you, and it lends itself well to future customization. You can buy a brand new one for 180, meaning you could put the rest towards an amp. Help you could even buy the bass and a reasonable amp for your 300 budget! I worked in guitar shops for years selling lots and lots of basses in this price range, and IMO no squier or cheaper ibanez or pretty much anything else comes close. Anyway, that's my bit said......
  11. TRBboy

    Yamaha BBs

    Ed Friedland does quite a good review on youtube. If you search for 'bass whisperer' it should come up with his channel. As far as endorsements go, and despite how much I love Yamahas, you've gotta remember that they are a HUGE organisation with lots and lots of money. I'm sure if they offered any of us free basses and a load of cash we'd happily endorse them ;-)
  12. Usually the main difference is US Fenders will have imperial size hardware and squiers have metric. There's only a slight difference between comparative sizes but it's usually enough to cause you a problem. If you really can't get that one grub screw out, i'd be tempted to try drilling it out, very slowly and carefully, with a battery drill.
  13. Yamaha RBX270 is virtually unbeatable for the money, easy to hotrod too. I bought one for £70 off Gumtree last year and did it up. have a look [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=121667&hl=best+%A3200+bass+ever"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...A3200+bass+ever[/url]?
  14. On the flipside of the 'Ever sold a guitar...then wanted it back?' thread, do you have a bass that you would [u][b]never[/b][/u] part with unless it was a life and death situation? I would never sell my Jazz bass unless I absolutely had to. Other basses have come and gone, but it has been my mainstay for the last 14 years or so and has never let me down.
  15. [quote name='agoulding' post='1154378' date='Mar 8 2011, 07:52 PM']Nice one Oli! looks bloody lovely![/quote] Cheers mate, it's awesome! It feels amazing. Looking forward to trying it through my proper amp tomorrow!
  16. I've regretted selling basses on many occasions. Trouble is, unlike when I was younger and had no responsibilities, I now have to operate a strict 'one in one out' policy. So if there's a bass I really want I have to sell something first to fund it. Worst mistake I made was hastily part-exing my 5-string Warwick thumb, for a used, 4-string, base model, Warwick Corvette. The shop offered me a straight swap and I took it! Idiot......... I'm already regretting selling my TRB1004 to Tom (and he only received it yesterday!).
  17. Just googled '1981 bass guitar', and this came upward being first released in 1981. [url="http://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/1981gibsonVictoryStandard.php"]http://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/1981...oryStandard.php[/url] Do you think I should buy one?
  18. Just wondered what cables anyone recommends? I haven't had to buy any leads for years, but unfortunately a couple of my old faithful's are starting to play me up. What do you recommend that has a good quality/price ratio? I don't want to spend a fortune, but I want decent quality.
  19. I know it's a Sandberg Power Humbucker according to the specs, but I'm sure I read somewhere that they are designed/manufactured by Delano. Anyone know if this is true, or am I talking nonsense?
  20. TRBboy

    Im so excited

    [QUOTE]so i actually gonna get a Rick for 250€ ^_^[QUOTE] WOW! You've hit the jackpot there dude! Even if it needs a fair bit of TLC its more than worth it! I'm not jealous.......
  21. I've never played one, but apparently it feels pretty natural. The fan fretting means that each string has the optimum scale length and the intonation is better. See if anyone on here has one and can give you an opinion? Pedulla always look nice, GB basses are supposed to be pretty good, and there's also Ken Smith, Alleva Coppolo, Mayones, Roscoe, Nordstrand, Skjold, Wood & Tronics, etc, etc. I'd love to tell you what they're all like, but I'm too poor to even breathe on them. If I were you, I'd visit a couple of the 'specialist' bass shops and try as many out as you can.
  22. If I ever had that much wonga to spend on a 5, I'd definitely check out Dingwall.
  23. TRBboy

    Im so excited

    Awesome man! I'm glad you've found something! Did you get it for your 400 Euro budget? Let us know what it's like.
  24. [QUOTE]Probably not and hardly a fair test for any bass really.[QUOTE] Fair point, but as I practice through it with all my other basses it's a fair comparison. I wonder though if perhaps the preamp in the bass is overwhelming the amp a bit?
  25. [quote name='Sandmann' post='1152648' date='Mar 7 2011, 04:25 PM']may i ask what amp/cabinets you use? the glockenklang preamp has a boost/cut of bass frequencies around 40hz. maybe your amp-system does not go down low enough? [url="http://www.glockenklang.de/en/products/bass_systems/onboard_3-band.htm"]http://www.glockenklang.de/en/products/bas...oard_3-band.htm[/url][/quote] Yeah it could be, because at home I only practice through a little Roland Micro Cube Bass RX. My 'proper' rig is a Mark Bass CMD102P (2x10" combo) and 15" extension cab, so it should sound a lot better through that!
×
×
  • Create New...