icastle

[quote name='Clarky72' timestamp='1325009299' post='1479087'] The eternal tone search has found me buying and trading basses, amps, strings and pedals for years... that elusive tone is out there somewhere. [/quote] Yep. And once you find it you'll start chasing another one...

[quote name='deanbean502' timestamp='1325016770' post='1479192'] to be honest it does sound like a right pain in the arse, I might just bite the bullet and upgrade the head altogether [/quote] Yep that would be my favourite choice. And, as always, the more complex a setup you have, the more chance there is of something going wrong or getting forgotten.

A guitarist I play with has an AER and it really is a superb piece of kit. Mind you, at around £2000 it should be.

Is it possible to have 'your own tone'? The tone I use varies according to what works best with the tune being played at the time. The only 'constant' is a smidgen of chorus that stays on the whole time, backed off so far that people only realise that 'something' was there if I switch it off.

To be honest, I could never get my head around what motivated Ashdown to bring out this model. A 30W amp certainly isn't practical for gigging with in many common band situations, regardless of how a manufacturer has worked out the output rating, and if I was paying £500 for an amp head then I'd certainly expect it to be gigable. It doesn't really matter how many speakers or what type of speakers you hang off the back of it - it's always going to have a low output and by the time you've added a drummer and a 50W guitar combo or two you're going to be totally drowned out. I'm guessing that you've already discovered this, hence the question about adding extra speakers? DI'ing the amp, as you've done before, is really the only option if you intend using it live, that way the PA system is providing an alternative power amp and (hopefully) the foldback is man enough to allow you to hear yourself. If you really like the tone of the LB the only other real alternative is to buy a power amp, use the DI out on your LB to feed it and hang some suitable size cabs off the back of that - a lot of mucking about though.

[quote name='SidVicious1978' timestamp='1324959261' post='1478755'] ok cool thank you so nosieless pickup with 2 wires would be ok for it [/quote] Yep. If you take a look [url="http://www.fender.com/en-GB/products/search.php?partno=0992102000"]here[/url] the wire colours even match your existing ones.

Yep - they're passive pickups. If you take a close look at the diagram there are just two wires going to each pickup - active pickups have a third connection going back to the power supply.

Unless there's been a redesign I've not heard of, the pickups in your Jaguar are already passive - it's the tone control that's active. If you take a peek under the scratchplate and follow the wires back to the pickups, you should find the usual two wires (one black, one white). HTH

There's generally a little bit of background hiss and hum - you won't hear it when you're playing.

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1324941091' post='1478701'] Akai Unibass, if you can beg/borrow/steal one ... but you'll need a little time to work out some new bass lines (where applicable) that will work with it. Fishman have also just brought out a similar product (the Unibass was discontinued some time ago) but you're unlikely to find/get one in time. [/quote] Wasn't the Unibass an Octaver with a distortion option thrown in for good measure or am I thinking of something else?

[quote name='mikhay77' timestamp='1324940767' post='1478698'] Would of thought by now someone would of made a pedal to put bass root notes to guitar chords,mind you,probably a good job otherwise we might be out of a job,lol. [/quote] Well there have been a few attempts over the years but there are quite a few catches and compromises involved. By the time the signal has been processed and the 'lowest note' identified and played back you're getting a noticeable delay. Other issues involved would be around 'overplaying' - unless you have a way of programming a set of features, every chord hit is going to generate a bass note and, with the best will in the world, at best most tunes don't sound right with that degree of bass.

[quote name='AttitudeCastle' timestamp='1324938576' post='1478672'] You could ask 2 friends and divide the set list between them? 15 songs in 4/5 days isn't too bad as long as you don't play technical hyper rhytmical music Many on here have had to learn more in less time so it can be done! [/quote] +1 That's a cracking idea, should be much easier that way.

[quote name='mikhay77' timestamp='1324936045' post='1478649'] Got a gig new years eve,only at the local pub,Heres the problem,our guitarist is unable to do it for personall reasons.Short notice for anyone to learn 30 or so songs. Got a couple of friends who can busk through some but here is the thing. I can play bass or the guitar for all the songs but not at the same time lol. Is there any pedal out there that could simulate bass or guitar ie I could split the signal some way from either the bass or guitar to both stacks thus emulating the bass or vice versa. I did think about playing the guitar and splittin it to the bass stack and taking out all the top and bumping the low frequencies to fill out the sound. Havent got the equipment or time to record backing tracks either,any sugestions welcome. It doesnt have to be a studio quality sound and its more a bit of fun but it would be cool to add something.Mind you the White stripes manage it! [/quote] I've yet to hear a DSP that sounds even vaguely convincing in a controlled studio environment let alone a live setting. You'd get far better quality, and it would also be cheaper, to get a dep for the night.

[quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1324936578' post='1478652'] Didn't boss (or somebody) do a 'bassmaker' pedal - you've got to play the smaller, less good guitar and the pedal will generate a low note in response to your harmony line. [/quote] It was a company called Able. Not sure if they're still in business, but that pedal was discontinued quite a few years ago.

Running a 4Ω and an 8Ω cab at the same time will give you (roughly) 2.7Ω. From your description of your amp it sounds as though it can handle a minimum of 4Ω and using a 2.7Ω load will damage it.

Well if the indicators and segments are lighting up then you're not going to achieve anything by swapping IEC leads about. Try unwiring it and using it as a standalone unit (i.e. use the front sockets instead of the rear ones) with a known working guitar lead.

Nope. My sole involvement in christmas this year was a xmas card on the doormat a couple of days ago - the postman misdelivered it...

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1324813931' post='1477919'] [size=4][color=#222222][font=Arial]....then they boost this number two and three fold to reach the volume which comes out of the speaker outputs, which is the number that is amps are rated at and the number that musicians need to know when they buy their cabs.[/font][/color][/size] [size=4][color=#222222][font=Arial]Good grief!!! No wonder TC had an issue with how to market their amps to the average musician so that they wouldn't blow the speakers!! [/font][/color][/size] [/quote] Good job there are no cynics amongst us or one could come to the conclusion that TC were using this confusion as a marketing tool for their own brand speaker cabinets...

In answer to the first part of your question, no. The valves in the power amp stage are designed to work together - it'd be a bit like taking a wheel off your car and expecting to be able to use it still. To echo previous posts, if you have had a valve go then it makes good sense to replace all of them as the chances are that if one valve has blown then the others will not be far behind it...

This is starting to sound a little ominous. The next step is to remove the front grille and start releasing the speakers one at a time. Take a look at the connections on the rear of each speaker - are they both connected? If you have a multimeter handy, switch it to the 'Ω' setting, disconnect a wire from the speaker and take a meter reading directly across the speaker terminals - don't worry if it doesn't exactly match the impedance rating stamped on the back of the speaker - you just want to see that there is a resistance there (thereby eliminating the possibility of an open circuit). If you don't have a multimeter then use a couple of scraps of wire and a battery - if the + end of the battery is connected to the + terminal of the speaker then the driver should 'click' and move forwards as soon as you attach the negative lead. If the driver doesn't show a resistance or doesn't 'click' and jump forward then that speaker is blown. Work your way through each speaker like this.

[quote name='Pookus' timestamp='1324755185' post='1477662'] Thanks for your suggestions. It's not the cable. The amp works thru a different cab. So it must be the cab where the fault lies. What next? Is there a fuse in the cab? I can't see how the speakers could have blown (I was playing very quietly) and the cab is rated at 1200w. [/quote] I don't think there's a fuse in the ABM810, but if there is then it'll be on the reverse side of the connection plate. If you're going to take a look in there then check to make sure that none of the wires from the jack socket are floating around loose - that could cause the whole thing to stop working...

I'd start off by checking out the speaker cable and then try an alternative cab.

You can't really compare a PB with a JB when it comes to output as they're totally different beasts with a particular tone that essentially makes them 'what they are'. If you've sunk the neck pickup all the way back then there's half of your potential output gone straight away... You don't need to replace the entire plate, it's just a lump of metal after all. Sounds to me as if the soldering needs a bit of a tidy up and the jack socket contact needs a bit of a bend to make it grip nicely.

Well Fender pickups are ok but a lot of people swear by the aftermarket ones - is there anything wrong with the current ones? Don't be fooled into thinking that just changing pots, jack sockets and wiring will make any appreciable difference in sound though - at best all you're going to achieve is changing the way that the way that the controls respond.

[quote name='4000' timestamp='1324658324' post='1476795'] I've always wondered why people need the masses of power they seem to. I once played the Marquee in a full rock band with a 150W amp and only had it on 3; once we started I had to turn down! My 100W Marshall saw me through a few years of metal gigs competing with modded full Marshall stacks and I never got it much past half way, and that was with a loud drummer. Short of playing bloody big rooms or festivals I can't ever see needing more than 300W, even though I currently have a 500W head. I play pretty lightly too! [/quote] I think your experience illustrates the point made in another thread that using manufacturer quoted wattage as a comparative benchmark really doesn't work.