icastle

[quote name='bassmachine2112' timestamp='1326019170' post='1490976'] You might be able to steam the gouge out. Gunmakers use this trick on walnut gun stocks. It makes the wood expand and they sand it back flush. the grain expands in the wood . [/quote] Won't it just shrink back when it dries?

Depends what sort of paint it is. If it's emulsion then hot water and a scrubbing brush would probably do the trick, if it's gloss paint then it's going to be somewhat harder. Chances of getting rid of all of it is pretty low, so attacking it with some black shoe polish afterwards would help to hide any 'leftovers'.

[quote name='weeleigh' timestamp='1325955000' post='1490356'] icastle, is the the Tour 450 or 700 you have? Don't think there is a 750? I have read the octaver is a waste of time. The problem I have is making sure I make the right choice. I don't want to get the 450 then wish I had got the 700! Although I'm still open to any suggestions of other makes. [/quote] Oops It's a Tour 700. I generally work on the principle that it's far better to underdrive a large amp than it is to overdrive a small one.

I've been using a Tour 750 for the last year or so. Running mine into Warwick 2x10 and/or 2x10 + 1x15 cabs though. Half the battle is finding the EQ settings that complement your playing, but after a couple of hours 'fiddling' I've found I can get a nice well defined bottom end and a sharp top end. To my ears, the built in Octaver is crud though so I just leave it switched off. No problems or issues with it and even in a 5 piece rock covers band it's not being pushed particularly hard. One thing I would say though is that I tried using an EUB going straight into the 'Low' socket and it was horrid so I ended up adding a Fishman Pre on that channel. EDIT: And they weigh an absolute ton.

[quote name='bartelby' timestamp='1325875483' post='1489303'] They're vertical aren't they? [/quote] Nope - if they were vertical then the pedal would end up about 5" tall. Photo of internal guts is [url="http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/Chinese-Democrat/CIMG1456.jpg"]here[/url].

Well the tubes are already horizontal in the VT2 anyway so you can just use the original mounts for those (a couple of nylon pillars). All of the little toggle switches and the footswitch are hardwired, but three of the five pots look as though they're PCB mounted (although my picture isn't very clear so they could actually be mounted through the PCB to save some space). The jack sockets are all wired with unshielded cable which is fine in an enclosed unit like this, but it might be worth using shielded cable if you're going to mount everything in a larger box. Other than that it doesn't look too difficult.

It's easy enough to do if the controls and sockets that were previously accessible on the pedal are wired. If they're PCB mounted then it becomes a little more difficult.

[quote name='steve-bbb' timestamp='1325850834' post='1488664'] as long as hartke dont sue my a55 for copyright of their image [/quote] True, but we're prepared to take that chance...

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1325847846' post='1488577'] Then hide your lead in his gig bag and accuse him of stealing it. [/quote] ROTFLMAO

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1325847566' post='1488569'] How about making this a sticky? This is a very recurring question and this topic is very well explained and the images are very helpfull! [/quote] +1 Those images are spot on.

[quote name='steve-bbb' timestamp='1325846987' post='1488562'] its a pain in the ar5e to lug it in and out of the venue but its worth it for the tone and power without flogging the amp - not to mention the psychological oneupmanship over the guitarist with his little dual rectifier box [/quote] If you really want to screw with the guitarists head then get a 6 string bass as well...

From an audio and power output perspective, no difference whatsoever. From a practical perspective, on the LH drawing, if the cable coming from the amp fails then you get no output, wheras on the RH drawing if a cable fails then you'll still get an output from one cab.

If they're coated then they might even be the original Elixir strings that shipped with the bass. It deserves a new set.

[quote name='razze06' timestamp='1325769332' post='1487336'] I think the peavey mark IV 400 delivers 410 watts into a 2 ohm load, which is equivalent to two 4 ohm cabinets in parallel (or four 8 ohm cabinets for complete aural annihilation). You'll get about 200 watts into a 4 ohm load, and about 120 or so into a single 8 ohm cab. [/quote] You could be right - I didn't check the spec of the amp, I just took Steve's description of it and extrapolated from there. Steve - you need to halve those maximum output figures if your amp is 410W into 2Ω. Still plenty big enough for most gigs so will make a more than adequate practice rig.

[quote name='concord1' timestamp='1325768001' post='1487287'] Ah that makes sense thanks, I have a Peavey 4 ohm 1 x15 cab, so I should get 410 watts power to that. [/quote] Yep.

For me at the moment, a gig means I can eat.

A normal 1/4" jack socket will work fine. The earth is provided by the 'sleeve' part of the jack socket so no extra earthing is required.

I've got one of those. A lovely, well built instrument. The only catch with it is the weight, so my advice would be to take a lighter bass along with it to gigs and be prepared to do a swap over when your shoulders start aching.

Your amp output is directly related to the impedance (aka ohms or Ω) of the speakers you connect to it . Your amp will give you 200W if you run into an 8Ω load (cabinet). It will give you 410W if it can see a 4Ω load. To get 410W you need to run your amp into two [u]seperate[/u] 8Ω cabinets (two 8Ω cabinets will give you a 4Ω load). You can't use a splitter cable to feed both outputs of the amp into a single 8Ω cabinet as your amplifier will just see an 8Ω cabinet.

Haven't seen one of these in real life. If you can post the circuit diagram you were given I can probably translate it into something you can follow if that helps?

Well you could try filling it and getting it to match but I reckon it'll just fall out. If it was me I think I'd just get some wax in there to make sure it's sealed and about the right colour.

Pure 70's cheese... absolutely fab.

Not sure about the 'fountain of youth' but welcome anyway.

[quote name='Mog' timestamp='1325575350' post='1484474'] Does anyone know if these are hard to source and install? [/quote] Well the switch itself is easily replaceable but getting hold of a suitable one might be awkward - they're generally PCB mounted for ease of assembly on a production line, so it'll really need to be exactly right if you want it to fit properly. Are you sure it's the switch that's gone?

You're best off removing any solder on a duff joint and resolder again from fresh.