obbm

[quote name='jammie17' post='106815' date='Dec 20 2007, 01:32 AM']700 notes is how much in American? I'd always go for SVT myself. Why go for copies, when you can get the original?[/quote] About 1400 USD.

Easy answer. It has to be this one. It's a Stray 5.

Three years ago I had a major blow-up of my ABM500EVO at a Sunday rehearsal. It was just over a year after I bought it. I called Ashdown ffirst thing on Monday morning and they said send it back. It was back with me by Friday ready for an important gig at the weekend. 18 months later one of the knobs got broken off in the van. They sent me a replacement completely fee of charge. Excellent customer support. The ABM is now my back-up/Jam/any users amp and working faultlessly.

+9 231

Hi Lucy Welcome. I acquired an Ashbory earlier this year but haven't had the opportunity to gig it yet.

[quote name='Al.B' post='99209' date='Dec 4 2007, 09:20 PM']..... i am officially an old fart at 39 years old.[/quote] I think not. You've got another 20 years or so to go yet. BTW Hi from 20 miles away over here in Farnham.

Welcome back. About time too.

[quote name='niceguyhomer' post='103717' date='Dec 13 2007, 09:27 AM']I played a BG for the first time last night and I MUST have one...damn you Greene King - a sublime instrument.[/quote] Don't ever try a Duck Dunn with a Dark Star - you will regret it.

If I were starting again as a beginner........ I wouldn't have given up at the age of 21 and sold all my gear in order to waste money on fast cars for 23 years. If I'd kept at it I might be a half decent musician now, but alas.

Back in the dim and distant past around 1961 several of us at school decided to form a band. I'd been to see some of the top US artists on tour and really fancied the bass, especially a Fender Precision but as a 15 year old with 5 shillings a week pocket money (25p) there was no way I could afford one (£80) so I made a copy. It was rubbish, but it worked, so I got about the only tutorial book available, Shirley Douglas and Chas McDevitt, and taught myself. My memory is a bit hazy but I think did our first gig after 'O' levels in June/July 1962.

[quote name='Sparky' post='103264' date='Dec 12 2007, 02:46 PM']Anyone know if Trace Elliot made a 2x10 cab equivalent to the 2103H but without the horn? Bought an old (think pre Gibson and Peavey - pimple textured vinyl covering) 2103H for £100 and might want a second one to pair with it (but maybe slightly smaller - without the horn?) for a similar price... anyone know what I'm looking for - model - how old etc? ta.[/quote] There have been numerous 2x10 Trace cabinets. 2102, 2x10", 200-watt, 8-ohm, Multi-stack series, wedge shaped 2102, 2x10", 200-watt, 8-ohm, same size as 2103H 2103, 2 x10", 200-watt, 8-ohm 2103H, 2x10" + horn, 200-watt, 8-ohm 2103X 2x10" + 2x5" 200-watt, 8-ohm 2104, 2 x10", 200-watt, 4-ohm 2104H, 2x10" + horn, 300-watt, 4-ohm

[quote name='Al.B' post='102749' date='Dec 11 2007, 03:41 PM']Hi , this is probably a dumb question but i am assuming that the reason that all these cabs are so light is because they are made from some sort of of moulded subtance (plastic) and not heavy marine ply as in days of old. I assume that the components i.e speakers/magnets/coils are still top quality and the sound reflects this. cheers Al[/quote] Not quite. Lightweight wood. Neodymium magnets. This is what Epifani say:- "Combining superior performance, and less weight than a traditional bass instrument cabinet, Epifani Ultra Light cabinets have become the standard of excellence in bass cabinet design since their inception just a few short years ago. Made from uncommonly strong yet lightweight Italian Poplar, the UL Cabinets employ an internal bracing design that would make a traditional cabinet too heavy for 1 person to handle. This material allows for a sturdier cabinet construction, more precise cabinet tuning and further reduces sound-damaging resonance. Loaded with high performance neodymium drivers built to demanding specifications specifically for Epifani, the cabinets are tuned to reveal the true nature and nuance of your instrument's character. Even the crossovers are made from the highest quality components - the best polypropylene capacitors, 18 gauge inductors and sealed 1/4" phono/Neutrik SpeakOn connectors. The cabinets are finished in heavy-duty fabric and protected by high-impact plastic corners for years of sustained use and abuse."

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='102525' date='Dec 11 2007, 07:15 AM']I feel its cheating a bit. I felt i should have tried a bit harder to play the P as it was.[/quote] Not at all. I have a '78 Fender Precision that was factory made with a Jazz neck.

[quote name='bumnote' post='101493' date='Dec 8 2007, 08:19 PM']According to dudes blog, its moving to a new server and is supposed to be back up later this weekend[/quote] It's back at [url="http://www.thedudepit.com"]www.thedudepit.com[/url]

2 x bass in Hiscox cases 2 x 1x12" speaker cabs 1 x 4U rack case with amp, tuner, power strip and speaker leads 1 x Gramma Pad 1 x case with footswitch, cables, spare mic, torch and tools 2 x guitar stands 1 x mic stand 1 x set of ear-plugs 1 x pack of Ibuprofen

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='101584' date='Dec 9 2007, 08:47 AM']As OOBM said you do get manufacturers that for no apparent reason make the depth non-standard, I've even bought cases that are 2U but the rack strip is positioned thus that a 2U piece of equipment can't be fitted as it can't be mounted flush with the bottom; they stated that equipment should have airflow space. Off the shelf you can find that manufacturers do 3 depths that I know of; X-rack shallow for effects units, standard for most equipment and deep for certain amps that exceed normal depths. Which leads on to your response 2U or 3U. If you know that the manufacturer fit the rack strip starting at the bottom (SKB & Gator to name 2 do) and your amp doesn't generally run too warm then 2U is fine but if you are unsure about the manufacturers spec or the amp has a top mounted fan (I thing recent GK amps have but correct me by all means) then I'd go for a 3U. I have a Tech amp 2U and there is no need to mount in a 3U case as it never gets remotely warm BUT it needs to be in a deep case. My Thunderfunk on the other hand was trialled in an X-rack as it is very slim F to B but the heat build up I didn't like! That is now mounted in a 3U Gator case and it never gets too warm. Most big manufacturers publish their spec but as a rule of thumb I'd be tempted to say get 1U higher than you need, you never know when you might decide to upgrade to a deeped amp or fit a rack tuner etc.[/quote] Regretably there is no such thing as a standard rack case. It just happens that some companies have decided to make the same sized products. Competition and all that. The only recognised international specification is for the Rack Unit, "RU" or "U" which is 19-inches (482.6mm) x 1 3/4-inches (44.45mm). This has its origins in the early days of the GPO Telephones and came into being sometime in the 1920s or 1930s. The minimum distance between the rack strip and the exact positions of the fixing screws are also part of the specification. If the apertures in the case/rack and the equipment were both exactly the same dimensions it would very difficult to use so the aperture is usually made slightly wider, minimum 1/32-inch Similarly the overall height of a piece of equipment is only nominally in multiples of 1 3/4-inches as the overall height is reduced by 1/32-inch, 1/64-inch from the top and the bottom. The full spec is a BSI and not available on the web unless you buy it. As already mentioned some manufacurers do not comply with the specification so it is always best to check before you buy. Always get 1U larger than you think you need.

Sorry to dispell the simplicity of this but rack cases can come in any depth you want. In the past I have used EMS cases from [url="http://www.cpcases.com/prodtype.asp?typeid=3"]CP Cases[/url] and they come with a centre section depth of 400mm or 500mm and in vertical steps of 3U. I have also had rack cases made by [url="http://www.spider-engineering.co.uk/music/index.asp?groupID=2412"]Flightcase Warehouse[/url] to the depths that I have specified. My current amp case is 4U and 450mm deep. I asked them to fit rack strip to the front and the rear so I could mount a power distribution strip across the back.

Second Time Around are playing at the [i]Live and Let Live [/i]in Guildford this Saturday. It's our first time at this venue so it should be interesting. Start about 9.00.

Take the knobs off, twist the shafts and see if they have a detent. If they do, then fit the knobs with while the pot is at the detent. This allows the shaft to move in and out very slightly as the pot travels through the detent.

Chris I think [url="http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf_temp1/basses/0190209C/SD0190209CPg2.pdf"]this diagram[/url] is what you are looking for. It used to be public on the Fender web site but seems to have been removed since I printed my copy. When I was building mine I found another version which had 220K mixing resistors on the output side of each pot. It's a useful addition as it should prevent any interaction between the pick-ups.

Scored this for a very modest sum on Sunday to use when I have to provide an amp for others to use, especially local outdoor festivals. It's a bit weighty but does have very chunky wheels and handles. It has three speaker circuits, 15-inch, left 2x10 and right 2x10, all of which are 4-ohms and was designed to run from the Trace AH1000 which had the option of three power amps. I want to run it from either the old Ashdown ABM500EVO or the even older Sound City 200. The cheapest, and lightest, option is to :- Swap the 15-inch for an 8-ohms one I have in another Trace cab Rewire the two 2x10s in series to give 8-ohms Then parallel the 15 and the 10s to get a total of 4-ohms. Another option is to use a separate power amp to drive the 2x10 channels. That would give me the option of adding a crossover at a later date to give true bi-amping or even triamping but would mean having to cart more gear around. The first stage is to swap the 4 pole Speakon for an eight pole and bring all the connections out to the rear panel. Anyone ever used one or modified one?

One thing to remember about the OLP is that the string spacing at the bridge is 3 1/2-inches compared to 3 3/4-inches on the Stingray 5. This means that the pole pieces of any of the SR5 replacement pick-ups will not sit correctly under the strings. If you can find one, a Sub 5, is a better option as it is the same dimensions as an SR5.

Cream was a jazz band but nobody told Eric - Jack Bruce When turning down the Beatles, Dick Rowe, Decca's A&R man, told Brian Epstein "Guitar groups are on the way out... You should really stick to selling records in Liverpool"

Normally the grub screw would face into the flat of the D-section to lock it. I can't imagine what the black bits were that fell out.

These are the pots and knobs that came off my DJ4. Pot spindles are 6.4mm. Knob holes are 6.5mm +. No lubrication required.