Ou7shined

It would be quite tasty if that was glass and not perspex. But yeah bonkers set up. I don't know if it's just the perspective but the scale looks a little odd too. And what's that leaking out of the fret markers, glue?

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1344513115' post='1765663'] Warning: I can't spell. The capacatance value of pots is small enough to ignore right? [/quote] I haven't the foggiest... but I imagine that the difference in capacitance between cheap pots and expensive pots is.

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1344503628' post='1765440'] A lot of players may find this a worthwhile upgrade. [/quote] Imagine how many units you could punt if you could get an "expert" to say that it actually lubricates the tone flowing into your ears too.

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1344500856' post='1765376'] But don't forget there is a manufacturing tolerance. Cheaper pots may have a wider tolerance (Or not close to the stamp mark at all) where as a better quality one might be closer to the stated resistance. From what I have been told thats were the problem comes with cheap stuff.[/quote] Absolutely right. No argument there. And as we know the accuracy of a pot has no bearing on the sound which is being passed through it. [quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1344500856' post='1765376'] I'm not saying going from a half decent pot to a CTS pot will give an audible difference. [/quote] Cool. [quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1344500856' post='1765376'] Or every time you swap out a cheap ass pot you will get a difference. [/quote] Uh-huh. [quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1344500856' post='1765376'] But if you were taking a sample of cheap ass pots and compare them to a sample of decent made pots in a number of cases there will be an audible difference.[/quote] Woah! You just said it wouldn't. What you may find (more than likely than not) is that your sample of decent pots will give an overall more consistent ohms readings than the cheap ones do... but you can't say they will sound any different. They do not impart anything to the sound in a guitar circuit, they simply direct parts of the signal to earth. [quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1344500856' post='1765376']For all the price on a set of half decent pots is it really worth keeping the cheap ass nasty mini pots in a bass? [/quote] Absolutely, they don't cost that much do they. And they may even last a bit longer too.... but as the saying goes, if it ain't broke... In that majority of cases, providing the pots are functioning correctly (no crackles, corroded tracks etc) then a quick refresh of the solder points and a skoosh of switch cleaner can bring the crappiest old loom back to life.

[quote name='bremen' timestamp='1344502143' post='1765402'] Highly pertinent, good man that Ethan. Also: the quality of wire between pickup and jack does NOT have an effect on the sound (unless you know you've replaced 'inferior' wire with 'superior' wire). I believe there's a $1000000 dollar prize for anyone that can prove it does. Been on offer for years now and no-one's dared claim it. [/quote] Wa-hey at least someone watched it.

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1344500825' post='1765374'] You have no idea if the air is the same or not if you haven't tested it, yes it might have started the same but after different compressor, filters, etc. even the pressure may well be more accurate on the machine where you have to pay 20p. [/quote] What has that got to do with loom type A allegedly sounding better that all other versions? I'm sorry bud but I can not be challenged with airy-fairyness against practical everyday electronics and fundamental facts. Have I tested the air? How ridiculous is that. Regarding the rest of your quote above, fair enough you could (having "tested the air") claim that the 20p air dispenser (pot type A - CTS perhaps) gives a better pressure reading than the free air dispenser (bog standard pot but that is just confirming that pot A is more accurate (which is what I've said all along). But as you should know an accurate sweep doesn't equate to clarity of tone. It just means that a more accurate amount of the signal is sent to earth.... and more to the point still only means that (say it is a 500k pot) a quality pot has a better chance of giving you exactly 500k at the end of the sweep and closer to 0 at the start than a cheap job could. [quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1344500825' post='1765374'] Wrong again. [/quote] Please clarify. Is 250k ohms (to use Luke's example) from a cheap pot any different to 250k ohms in a dearer one? - and before we cover the accuracy point again, we're not talking final destination, we're talking sweeping it around to 250 (or 50 or 27 or 326 k ohms) as defined by a multimeter. Are you claiming that one pot's 250k ohms sounds sweeter that another's?

[quote name='Stacker' timestamp='1344500183' post='1765361'] My tuppenth worth, here: the quality of the hook-up wire used between pots and the quality of the solder (and soldering technique) used are significant contributing factors to how a harness performs. [/quote] There is an element of truth regarding a decent solder job. Dry or incomplete joints can act as unwanted resistance in a circuit. There is no evidence that the "quality" of the wire, especially over such short distances is a contributing factor on tone. I once did an on the spot repair during a gig for a guy who's guitar was breaking up, with blu-tac and the tin-foil from a sweetie. It lasted the gig and sounded like a guitar.

[quote name='Paddymick' timestamp='1344492785' post='1765286'] ... I've looked at a lot of wiring diagrams it appears to be 50/50 whether the cap should be attached the body of the tone pot or linked to the volume pot. Any ideas which is right? ... [/quote] Both are right, there are a couple of ways to do it but it is more common to have the version where it is linked to the tone pots casing. + 1 to the guys saying to check your earths. If you can get the buzz to disappear by touching metal then that's a good indication that you have a bad earth.

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1344466478' post='1765190'] sorry for being an idiot... but why does it matter what it will be worth? You will never be able to prove more than hearsay what it is or isn't- it may be a fender- it may not be. So that given- what matters is what the thing is like to play, is it a amazing bass? is it worth 800 or more even now? If it is then why not get it and get something special at a good price. But it would be fraudulent to buy, refinish and sell as an original and you don't have a clue- so the question is- if I got this, and refinished it would Bass + refinish < sale price if I wanted to move it on? [b]For info there was a jazz that a guy sold on here last year that he sold as a bitsa with possibly some old fender parts on it. Dead honest, and it looked like it possibly was real old parts- but again couldn't prove more than he had a good jazz bass. I think it went for £550 or so[/b] [/quote] +1 (again ) Re the last part : This reminds me about a respected member of our community and Fender expert who put together a "replica" right down to authentic looking neck stamps and pencilled in info (oh and copies of the documents and case candy from a genuine vintage Fender... all for his own amusement you understand) who sold it on for about £800 if I recall - anyway it was a good amount for a bitsa. He was up front the whole time about it being a replica but bragged that it was as good a copy as you could get. So it's swings and roundabouts - sell a possible genuine bass but minus the provenance - £550, build a bitsa replica and tell everyone it's fake and get 800 bucks for it. The vintage Fender market is a strange beastie, it's not it's worth as an instrument that counts rather than it's value as an asset.

[quote name='Voodoosnake' timestamp='1344469901' post='1765229']..... We could then advertise the bass with his description [b][size=4]and our description[/size][/b] and see if it sells! .... [/quote] Dibs.

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1344464161' post='1765135'] [font=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif][size=1] [/size][/font] Is it just me or is the Fret high on the treble side. As in off the fretboard? [/quote] Ach all it needs a bit of bees wax and it'll be playing like Schecterbacker before you know it.

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1344466086' post='1765184'] because there are many different variables in the construction of that pickup that affect it's working.[/quote] Absolutely. The reason you spend the extra on a Lindy Fralin is because it sounds different... the sort of different that is difficult to get all the time. [quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1344466086' post='1765184']A pot is a variable resistor, and while one can be smoother in it's sweep, something giving 250k ohm resistance should sound the same as something else giving 250k ohm resistance. [/quote] Right again. Your 250k is the same as mine = the air in your tyres is the same as the air in mine. The type of air makes no difference as to how the tyre functions.

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1344462528' post='1765093'] Nothing facetious about it, we are talking analogue values that can readily be measured & justified, tyre performance or components in a signal path.[/quote] You are still applying the tyre analogy wrongly - by all means say fitting new pups is like fitting new tyres because yes you can produce firm data from the resultant change... stopping distance, improved cornering // voltage, impedance, frequency response. Indeed, we can clearly see new data for improved tyres... but where is the measured data for improved tone you speak about? The variable resistors in a basic wiring loom have no effect on luscious tones - we may perceive that installing a new set improves tone because we expect them to... but they don't. The job of a vol pot is to select how much of the signal is sent to ground and that's it - and the tone pot's job is similar only we have stuck a cap there which predetermines a shelf for a specific part of the signal to be sent to earth. [quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1344462528' post='1765093'] The air for 20p may well be 'better', how would you know without testing & comparing? Otherwise you're just jumping to conclusions. [/quote] It's all the same air bud, and quite frankly considering the service you provide for BC I'm surprised that you are saying otherwise.

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1344458480' post='1765012'] If you upgrade any components, not just on a bass, to ones of 'top spec' you surely expect an improvement? Otherwise why waste money buying 'better' pick ups, or top quality strings over cheap ones? [b]Why pay for quality tyres on your car? They're just black round things right?[/b] ... [/quote] No that's slightly facetious. But continuing the analogy, when we are speaking about the musical response of pots you might as well be saying to your tyre guy "don't get the air for your tyres here, it's free. The garage round the corner charges 20p air... it's bound to be better".

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1344457181' post='1764978'] Well I can say most definitely mine improved. I have no idea what the pots were that went in except they are full size and only just fitted but there was a noticeable difference. Not a day and night difference but certainly a noticeable one . Certainly more treble coming through and that was with a cheap ass disc cap that was also in the box of bits. I know whats in them and I know how they work. But then again I also know cheap sh*te sometimes acts just like cheap sh*te and doesn't always do what it says on the tin Take for example a car battery. Basically for a given rating they are all the same. They are all made basically the same, a lot are made in the same factory and some manufacturers sell the same battery in different colours at different price points and there is no black magic in them. However buy a cheap and nasty sh*te battery you are getting a cheap nasty sh*te battery that regardless of what the sticker says just won't be as good. That and when your best mate is a full on dogs balls spark who knows their stuff says there is a difference in components . I believe him [/quote] How come it's only internet golden-ears that claim this then... the manufacturers sure don't. Check out Stewy-mac for example, what do they say about CTS pots? Do they make extravagant claims of life altering tonality? Nope they correctly state that they are "[url="http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_pickups/Potentiometers/CTS_Control_Pots.html"]smoother and more accurate[/url]" than other varieties and have components which may mean they could last longer - although I suggest that the construction material on the majority of pots (cheap or expensive) will out last it's carbon track any time. I rarely sell basses that don't have CTS in them... but that because it's what my customers want... they want reliable components. They don't want fairy-tales. I'm honestly pleased for anyone if they are happy with their new tone after swapping them out. Perhaps [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYTlN6wjcvQ"]this[/url] might be pertinent.

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1344455293' post='1764943'] So do you reckon swapping out cheap and nasty pots for better jobs won't make a difference? [/quote] They may "feel" better, they may not crackle like your old ones did, and it has been proved that by saying you have fitted CTS pots to an instrument will somehow make it slightly more desirable/sell-able... but the fact of the matter is that they have no inherent ability to enhance your sound in the way some would have you believe. To some people, as with most electronic components, pots hold some mystery and this makes it relatively easy to bestow magical properties upon them - once you actually see inside one (or routinely work with them) they loose all mystic appeal.

Those linked to by Skidders would appear to be perfect. I myself use 0.6 veneers.

[quote name='gjones' timestamp='1344450233' post='1764823'] Of course the sound of my old pots could also have had something to do with my shocking soldering skills. The new wiring loom required no soldering. [/quote] This would be a far more digestible explanation for those in the know.

[quote name='MB1' timestamp='1344442258' post='1764604'] MB1. "Wax on!....Wax off!"... (Mr Tagahee / The Karate Kid) [/quote]

[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1344441168' post='1764578']....I always come unstuck when I use superglue - well actually quite the opposite, twice I have stuck my fingers together hours before a gig, not fun! [/quote] Hardly a day passes by where my fingers haven't gotten stuck together at some point. I've got this sort of twiddly technique for freeing them now.

[quote name='Zenitram' timestamp='1344438987' post='1764525'] What about leaving the slots empty, and just sanding the board down a bit to smooth it out? Is that nuts? [/quote] That leaves you with a weak board and cause all manner of problems for adjusting the tr.

[quote name='lettsguitars' timestamp='1344437234' post='1764478'] Clean out your slots. Buy your veneer (.23mm). Cut it into oversized strips, along the grain not across it. I use a little whsmith guillotine but scissors will do. Run glue into slots and gently work the veneer down into the slots. Be careful, if the slot is too tight do not try and force the veneers in, they will break into little pieces. If the slot is tight then widen it with your saw. Wait for glue to dry (about an hour) and clip off excess (with your nail clippers?) and sand flush. Very, very easy to do. Just common sense when you have it all in front of you. [/quote] I agree about cutting oversized pieces but after that my technique differs a little. I'll not confuse matters but adding my 2p worth but I should add that Superglue has a wonderful capillary action so can do a lot of the work for you.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1344430750' post='1764318'] But it's totally obvious that this guy is a know-nothing bullsh*tt*r, so why are we giving him and the crap he's trying to shift so much publicity? [/quote] Aye but if all the publicity is negative and we manage to save some of our kids from buying his crap then we've done a good thing. No? [quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1344432696' post='1764382'] +1 If you look he has a mark up of roughly the cost of a set up. so someone could buy the same sh*te on Ebay from him and get an actual Pro to set it up and possibly have change. +1 again I just like seeing what he has done to the next one. It's quit comical. What he passes of as pro-set up instruments and modifications are something some folk on here would do with a few spare minutes and a parts bin full of spares ripped out of other junkers. the bit the pisses me off (And partially from communication over ebay) Is he sees himself as a "pro" because there is no official professional qualification for luthiers. so basically sees it as fair game to falsely label himself as a "pro" because he makes a pound or two at it. [/quote] That's it. And it is cringingly astonishing how it never ends.

The good thing with veneers is that they will not contract away from level when dry like wood-filler will. Use superglue though as it has less water content than wood glue and will not expand the wood - it also has the benefit of sealing your marker. You gotta be quick though before it sets.