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Everything posted by Dad3353
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[quote name='Agwin' timestamp='1467879602' post='3086862'] Eleven entries and only ten voters! Democracy in action - or should that be inaction (I'm one of the ten incidentally) [/quote] Sorry; that'll be me. Not well; I'll try to give 'em all a fair listen this evening (I have to get the Certificate done, anyway...). There's always one, isn't there..?
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[quote name='owen' timestamp='1467561493' post='3084553']...the intonation on the bottom E string on one of them was out... [/quote] This is often caused by an old or duff string, on expensive as on more modest instruments. A string change may have fixed the issue, perhaps..?
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[quote name='Rich' timestamp='1467542734' post='3084360'] It's probably just me, but... whenever I see the word 'reliced', my mind interprets it as 're-liced'. As in, "the previous lice have all died, so I'm sending it off to be reliced". No? It's just me, isn't it. Ok, as you were. [/quote] That was lousy.
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[size=4][color="#222222"][font="Arial, sans-serif"]And the winner is... Mornats..! Well done, sir..! [sharedmedia=core:attachments:167486] Here, then, is your Winner's Certificate (download and save as pdf file, then proudly print and frame...) ...[/font][/color] [attachment=222565:BC_Chal_Cert_2016_06.pdf] [color="#222222"][font="Arial, sans-serif"]... which looks like this (but bigger, of course..!)...[/font][/color] [/size]
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Retro-Electro? 80's style short demo video (WAL Fretless)
Dad3353 replied to Hide's topic in Share Your Music
[sharedmedia=core:attachments:167485] -
Retro-Electro? 80's style short demo video (WAL Fretless)
Dad3353 replied to Hide's topic in Share Your Music
[quote name='Hide' timestamp='1467252543' post='3082296']... (hmmm... I don't know how can I embed...)... [/quote] http://youtu.be/AnDFHFvY0kk Edit out the 's' from 'https' when pasting the link into the editor. Nice video; nice bass. -
[quote name='sebowden' timestamp='1467226639' post='3082141'] I have just bought a Selmer PA 100... [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]...There is also a 100V option, but I don't know what that means....[/font][/color] [/quote] The power of an amp is partly dissipated in the cabling resistance, which is why speaker cables are better if they're quite 'chunky'. When cabling over greater distances than just to a cab, however, it's very expensive to use chunky cable. Your amp, you say, is a PA amp; as such, it was designed to be able to power speakers laid out across a field, or all around a village hall. For these distances, it's more efficient to 'up' the voltage (and thus reduce the current, for the same power...), which enables long cable runs of lighter cable. The downside (there's always a downside...)..? The speakers have to be able to cope with this high voltage, either by having special windings, or having a 'drop-down' transformer built-in. Do not use this 100v tap, ever, unless doing specialised, long-distance cable runs with adequate speakers, such as those quaint Tannoy horns that used to be dotted around village fairs. Hope this helps.
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[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1467148162' post='3081557'] For all those advocating going pre-eq...[/quote] The best analogy I can think of would be the singer. When Kiemsa were active (ska/punk/rock...), we had a sound man in the team who knew exactly what was required (he'd been in the team from the start, including the studio sessions for the albums...), and 'played' the console depending on the needs of the songs. A bit of reverb here, a large dose of echo at an appropriate moment, for all of the channels, throughout the concert. For a specific sound, from the bass, guitar or whatever, he'd do the necessary magic and it worked a treat. Yes, the bass was post-eq (and fx...), but there was still work going on at the desk. If one has a dedicated sound man, I don't see any problem. Things are different if there's someone on the console that knows nothing of the repertoire, or even the style of the band before sound check (if there even is a sound check..!). I've done this in the past, and there's no way that I could know if the bass (or anything else...) was what the band wanted to public to hear, or when the singer was going to chat to the public, and needed the fx cut. All I could do would be to get the best sound FOH that I thought best fitted what I heard, often for the first time, and 'live'. If the bass sounds bad (to me...) I'd correct it as best as I could. There's no accounting for tastes, and doubtless my mixing (or anyone else's, in the same circumstances...) could be less than optimum, but that's the price one pays for not touring with one's own rig, riggers and sound bloke. Same for lights (I've done years of that...); when is a blackout to be used..? When to 'spot' a soloist..? When does the tempo change..? One gets used to it, but it's not the same as having an experienced team that know the ropes. A clean feed is a minimum in that case, plus a mic on the cab if possible, and mix 'em. That's my recipe, anyway.
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[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1467146277' post='3081541']... Edit: Drummers who have decided to become members of this board are perfect in every way, of course. [/quote] ... or would be, but for their enormous modesty.
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Electrical help required for 12v lighting
Dad3353 replied to bonzodog's topic in Repairs and Technical
[sharedmedia=core:attachments:167485] -
Electrical help required for 12v lighting
Dad3353 replied to bonzodog's topic in Repairs and Technical
[quote name='bonzodog' timestamp='1467122863' post='3081319']...which means a 15w light at 12v is 1.25 amps... [/quote] Your maths is right; each lamp will draw 1.25 A, so you'll be needing either an 1.5 A psu for each lamp, or a single psu able to support a minimum of 2.5 A. Running both from the 1.5 psu will overload it, and could cause trouble. It would be normal to have a little bit of margin, so I'd say a 3A psu would be better if you're running both from the same one. On the other hand, separate psu's would be more 'fail-safe', and could make for better cable runs. -
[quote name='butlerk02' timestamp='1467061456' post='3080951'] OK. Thanks guys. Still no idea how much to sell it for [/quote] A very quick search on Ebay UK shows me one similar to yours (G12/75's...) which sold for around £250, and another newish-looking one with unspecified Celestions, in Spain, sold for £715. I'd put yours in between, probably more towards the lower figure; it then depends on how urgent a sale you need, whether you can ship (they're quite popular in the States...) and how much, if anything, you want to get as 'profit' from the cab. We don't know what you paid for it, of course, which may influence your costing.
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[quote name='EMG456' timestamp='1467060695' post='3080935']...go straight into that and apply dynamics later... [/quote] This would be the 'default' way of working; there is no need technically to compress or limit before the interface. There is no need, either, to push towards clipping, either (unlike the older tape machines and the like...); it would be better to leave a few db spare as headroom, even at peaks in the playing. The interface you've mentioned has bags of headroom and wide 'pad' options, so no problem at all. You may prefer to compress beforehand, of course, and it's not forbidden. It obviously can't be adjusted or removed after the fact, that's all. Subject to completion, correction and/or contradiction from others; hope this helps.
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Standard Hiwatt would be Fanes, but they would fit other speakers on request for some customers. Celestions were not the first choice, but would please some Marshall-oriented folks a bit more. As for value, it's about as valuable as any vintage 4 x 12; nothing really 'collector' about it. With vintage Fanes it would probably fetch about three times more. Check the impedance, as these cabs were often wired as 16 ohms.
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[quote name='butlerk02' timestamp='1467039688' post='3080676']...not sure if the speakers are originals... [/quote] I would expect to see Hiwatt Fanes in there. I've never seen an original Hiwatt cab with Celestions like that, and the cabling looks to be very much more flimsy than Hiwatt's. All is possible, of course, but I'd doubt originality.
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Good evening, Daniel, and ... [sharedmedia=core:attachments:167528] Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share. Good luck with your search.
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[quote name='Roger2611' timestamp='1465414292' post='3068081']...what tool do I need to adjust the rod?... [/quote] Try an Ebay search for 'nut spinner', measure the dimension between flats of the truss rod nut and get one (or a set...) that fits. That should sort you out. Something of this sort should do the job... [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professional-T-Bar-Handle-Screwdriver-Set-20-Bits-Sockets-Holder-Nut-Spinner-/201480477318?hash=item2ee92c1a86:g:USwAAOSwcBhWYEHS"]T-Bar Nut Spinner set ...[/url]
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Another modest vote for Reaper. It costs nothing to try it out, alongside others, and compare. If it's not chosen, just un-install, no loss. If it wins out, it's not at all expensive. It must be worth at least looking into, no..?
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Could it be something as simple as a phase issue between the FOH and the cab..? Did you try the phase inverter on the bass channel strip..? Just a thought.
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[quote name='KevB' timestamp='1466836906' post='3079198'] Lasted about 3 songs before getting very bored and switched it off. [/quote] +1
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[quote name='Kev' timestamp='1466699062' post='3078013'] ^^^ He's trying to steal your thunder, Dad! [/quote] I ran out of 'thunder' decades ago; if he finds any left to steal, he's entirely welcome. I wouldn't know what to do with it any more, anyway..!
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[sharedmedia=core:attachments:167486]
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[quote name='Samashton12' timestamp='1466674060' post='3077731'] I kinda like it.. [/quote] So do some others; it's now up to £255.
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Good afternoon, BS, and ... [sharedmedia=core:attachments:167528] Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share. No, I'd heard of neither (nor their bands..!), but, then again, I'm a drummer.