zero9

If your budget is limited, look at the Audio Technica range, such as the ATH-M40x (about £70). I've been using a similar older model for years and they're great for the money.

That's one hell of a long intro, was waiting for the vocals to start! Only kiddin', great effort Like the keyboardists t-shirt and matching fingernails...

Great to see a true acoustic performance.

Does he have any feedback at all on this forum? Maybe someone on here has has a previous transaction with the buyer?

I'd be surprised if you need to adjust the truss rod. I used to have a USA P and swapped strings all the time between rounds, flats as well as different gauges. The only time I needed to tweak the trus rod was with James Jamerson flats, mind you they're like bridge cables

Depends how old and drafty the room is, and what temperature you want to maintain. If you have an old pre 70s house, a rule of thumb is 100 Watts per square metre to achieve room temperature. For a newish or well insulated house, use 50 Watts per square metre. At 5x8 foot, this works out to 3.7 square metres, requiring about 400 Watts for an old house, or 200 for a new one. Most heaters will be far larger than this, to allow the soace to heat up in a reasonable time from cold.

If you feel they might be right for you, no harm in dropping them an Email outlining your requirements / what you need them to do, and ask for a budget cost. I know he's good at analysing noise spectrum readings and the like for rooms and provide advice based on those readings. Hope this is of some use and GLWT project.

I've come across Edward Veale in the past: http://www.va-studiodesign.com A bit of a legend when it comes to studio acoustic design. Don't know how much he charges, he was being paid by Middlesex University for the project I worked on at the time as part of the design team.

The difference is likely to be in the body wood, as the grain looks quite different. The earlier body wood is probably ash.

Get a second one for stereo use

Although you don't specify a budget or whether you use a PC or Mac, the Focusrite 2i4 is great or if your budget stretches to it the Roland Quad capture: http://www.dv247.com/computer-hardware/ua55-roland-quad-capture-usb-audio-interface--85383

One of these might do the job http://www.dv247.com/studio-equipment/art-pro-mpa-ii-gold--67627?gclid=CNjbraLa98ICFUoCwwodi20A5A

If you can look past Fender and Squier brands, this will open up the field to Tokai and Warmoth builds. I went the route of a Warmoth body with a graphite neck, which works best for me. There are currently some great deals to be had in the for sale section.

Acoustic bass guitars are fine for solo practice, but can't keep up with a guitar in the volume stakes. The loudest ones are the resonator types, but you do need the right strings.

You don't mention what strings you're using. Depending on your current strings, changing them may help find the tone you're looking for. Also, a Jazz will allow you to just dial in the bridge pickup, which should give you a thinner tone.

Nobody needs an active bass, but a lot of people prefer it. In your case, it seems you don't need one. I've found that with an active bass I have all the tone shaping I need, without needing to touch an amp or preamp. Very useful when recording / DI'ing.

The other option is to get an inexpensive fanless studio power amp and a small mixer.

It might help specifying the location / area you're in or looking for bands to join.

Surely, the line and inst switches don't apply to a microphone, when using an xlr.

The Rode datasheet suggest it needs a gain of about 56dB to reach unity. The Focusrite will only deliver about 50 according to the specs. That's why your struggling to get a good signal. Also, budget type preamps deliver most of their gain near the end, thus giving you little play to get an accurate signal.

The Gatso's

Rocks Ahead!

I don't get sticking Fender decals on non-Fender instruments, unless it was a Cuntz guitar

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